NVU gauge cluster installation.

[Warp6]

Is anyone considering using the clear plastic overlay to go over the gauges? I am not loving. The idea of not having A clear cover. Maybe it would look ok in a race car but I was hoping more for the clean factoryish look.

Any thoughts?

I don't know how it will work. Our G37 has LED gauges with a very sharply angled lens. The anti-glare may be in the sharp angle. The GN is very much upright. All I can think is, try it.

 

[precizion818]

I was curious about this also. I notice that the GNX replica dash made by AVC has the lens in front of the gauge glass lens.

 

[Good2win22]

Here's the adhesive I used for the trim piece. Worked well

 

[Good2win22]

Here's the new panel installed while still on the bench. I put on the bezel to get everything aligned before drilling the two holes and also to see how big the gap was going to be. It looks a lot bigger than it is and the bezels on the gauges almost touch the dash bezel when install in the car. More pics to follow

 

[Good2win22]

This is the C1 connector referred to in the instructions

 

[Good2win22]

Here's the C2 connector referred to in the instructions

 

[Good2win22]

SES connector after I had spliced it. There is an actual bulb at the end of the three wires, 1 pink/black and 2 wires are black/white. Don't mind the butt splices, this is my process to make sure all wiring is correct before final installation. I will come back and solder each splice

 

[Good2win22]

These are the two connectors at the ECM. I had a blue connector and a white connector. The A10 location for the speed signal for my vehicle was located on the blue connector and the wire color is brown. See previous post for further detail

 

[Good2win22]

Again, don't mind the butt splices. Just my method of insuring correct wire splices. Will solder the splices before final installation.

Second pic is showing where I had to sand the new dash to allow for installation. Also need to trim the lower left bottom corner to be able to sit flush by the mount for the light/dimmer switch

 

[Warp6]

Very helpful info. Just the questions I have been writing on my own set of wiring instructions. Thank you!

 

[1952ray]

Again, don't mind the butt splices. Just my method of insuring correct wire splices. Will solder the splices before final installation.

Second pic is showing where I had to sand the new dash to allow for installation. Also need to trim the lower left bottom corner to be able to sit flush by the mount for the light/dimmer switch

Nicely done, good job. Reading all this and I still don't have mine. It's killing me

 

[87GNSteve]

I dont believe you have to go that far to splice in the signal for the VSS.
I planned on unplugging the VSS behind the I/P left of the radio area and tapping into the brown wire there. If you have cruise that you want to run, the red wire at the same location needs a signal feed. Digital dashes should have a wire up there already at the I/P just have to make sure the VSS buffer from GM is unplugged or it will ignore the signal you send it.

 

[Good2win22]

Installed without the bezel

 

[Good2win22]

Close ups with the dash bezel installed. On a positive note, I found all of my clips. These pics are with all the clips installed. I hope I'm able to find them all when I take it back out to solder all the splices

 

[Good2win22]

I dont believe you have to go that far to splice in the signal for the VSS.
I planned on unplugging the VSS behind the I/P left of the radio area and tapping into the brown wire there. If you have cruise that you want to run, the red wire at the same location needs a signal feed. Digital dashes should have a wire up there already at the I/P just have to make sure the VSS buffer from GM is unplugged or it will ignore the signal you send it.

I failed to unplug the buffer. That's why I couldn't get a signal to the ECM. Thanks for the info!

 

[captndave737]

I did the physical install of my new instrument panel today. I didn't have to take out the carrier to trim it since years ago when I put in my AVC panel i had already trimmed it. In fact the AVC panel needed the carrier trimmed more and now I have no place to screw in the upper right hand side of the new panel but I've figured out a way towork around it and will post pics as I proceed.

All I had to do,was remove my old GNX replica (installed post AVC) and put in the new one. Guess what it too didn't quite fit. It was too tight right near the volt meter and the bottom right corner was hitting the headlight switch cluster and it looked like i'd have to trim the new panel.

Instead I removed the surrounding trim panel and the switch cluster and the new panel slid right in. And the switch cluster and surrounding trim panel went right back in. I guess when everything is loosened up there's enough room. And yes everything is straight and level.

The first picture shows where the panel was hitting the support. The switch cluster has been removed.

The second picture shows where the corner of the panel was hitting the the switch cluster.

The third shows the panel with everything except the trim bezel reinstalled.

The 4th is of the trim piece I was talking about. Don't know what to call it!

 

[Good2win22]

Here's the drivers view with everything where it's suppose to be. Next pic is where I choose to put the speedo button. There was already a hole in that panel for the little red light from a previous owners security alarm install. Third pic is my TR on jack stands and my other toy. I'll have one more pic tonight when it gets a bit darker to show the back lighting. May try a video....

 

[Good2win22]

Can't load a video here. Here it is with back lighting. What happens when power is applied is the dials make a full sweep clockwise to the right, return all the way back full left and then the dials point to where there respective signal is telling them to point

Sorry for the crappy out of focus picture... I'll take a better pic and post

 

[Warp6]

Great job! Thanks for sharing what you've been through. It will be helpful for us all.

 

[87GNSteve]

Looks real nice.