ok results are in

[TURBOPOWERED68]

but as of right now idk where the compression went can i put oil in that cylinder and see if it leaks down? should i get the heads rebuilt for now?

I probably know less about these cars then you.
But I never put a head back on a car with out first rebuilding it.
Do you work on cars for a living?
OR just a BIG hobby?

 

[Blazer406]

Post some clear close-up pics of the top of the piston.... and combustion chamber....maybe someone can spot something....

I wouldn't do a thing until I found where the compresion went..... but that is just me.

 

[liv4gnz]

yea i have a shop but we dont do engines if anything ill take them out and send them out

so i dont get it should i rebuild the heads get arp bolts new gaskets and put it togather?

how do i check the piston rings? would a bent valve cause such a loss of compression?

i dont want to put it all togather to find out it is a cracked ring

 

[Blazer406]

snip.....
how do i check the piston rings? would a bent valve cause such a loss of compression?

i dont want to put it all togather to find out it is a cracked ring

It definately could. If the sparkplug was on it's way out..... the valve could have tried to close on it...... not real likely... but it could happen.

Should be a bunch of marks ontop of the piston if there was foreign matter floating around in the combusion chamber....

 

[SCOOBY DOO]

You could take the passenger side head to a reputable machine shop and have them check the valves on the offending cylinder. Just a thought.

 

[IrvJr]

Take the heads to a shop. Within minutes they could tell you if the valves are bent. And yes they can cause loss of compression by not sealing completely. Check the surface of that piston closely, if anything made contact with it there should be some marks. Dont give up so easily, find the culprit and learn something in the process. Make smart informed decisions and it will save you time and most importantly money and keep you from having the same problem twice. And for God's sake listen to what these guys are telling you, there was not one bad piece of advice in here. When i got mine in 2000 i was lucky enough to find local guys to help get mine back in shape and im lucky enough to call those men my friends now.

 

[liv4gnz]

i had my engine builder come down and look and its the piston

pistons should be perfectly round duh and this one had a like a ) shape around the cylinder but like hard to notice maybe by like 1 milimeter or 2 it was indented

ill post a pic of the piston when it comes out



i can buy that long block from the guy on here selling it for around 3900

or i can get mine fully rebuilt by a very reputable machine shop for 2100

 

[IrvJr]

You should be able to get a long block for far less then 3900. I have one for sale for less then half of that. 2100 for a rebuild is good. Get a roller cam in my opinion, i did a rebuild with a flat tappet and then did it again less than a year later when the cam wiped a lobe.

 

[djj624]

Its a little ghetto but you could take the head lay it on its side and put some gas in the ports and see if it leaks out of the valves. Might have to let it sit for a while. You should have done a leak down like i was saying, before you ripped the head off. Would have been much easier to diagnose. I would do a rebuild like we talked, did you call haledon? They will check the head as well. Take a picture of the piston in the block.

 

[Blazer406]

Well... at least now you know.....

IMHO.... if the cylinder is OK..... and the engine has good oil pressure.... I'd put a piston in it and rings and put it back together...... you are just learning.

I'd hate for you to spend several thousand on a tricked out motor only to do it again.

Just my 0.02

 

[liv4gnz]

i heard a couple bad things about that guy in haledon when i was asking around they have a lot of guarantee problems



but figure its all gonna be apart i have my combo all setup

it was running perfect the tune was spot on just that ****en map line was off and it popped but figure i was the third owner its probably been beat to **** the other cylinders are decent driver side looks like its kinda toasted around the outer parts of the pistons like light brown

the heads definitely need re freshening i could barely get to the head bolts because there was so much **** around them

 

[Blazer406]

FWIW... 2.1 knock didn't bust the piston. You were monitoring this on a scanmaster correct?

The scanmaster is a very valueable everyday tool. It can show you what the computer is seeing and be used to diagnose nearly any ECM/sensor issue.... or give clues where to look next. What it can't do is update any faster than the ECM gives it data thru the datastream it uses.

It updates every couple seconds or so. An aweful lot can happen between refreshes....that is why I personally don't recommend the scanmaster as a serious tuning tool. You could have had 20 degrees of knock and not known it unless you knew what you were hearing.....The SM simply doesn't update fast enough. They do have some chips that limit the data and make it update faster if the scanmaster is the right version..... but it still isn't as good of a tuning tool as DirectScan or the PowerLogger. The DirectScan... will update 18 times per second.....and show you piles of data at one time on the screen. I am running one. I am probably about to step up to a PowerLogger. Similar tool... just has some inputs to log more than DS. Both need a laptop.

IMHO another "must-have" tool is a Caspers audible knock detector. It can be soldered in near the ECM and will sound an audible alarm the instant knock is detected. It can and will save your engine.... cause it can immediately tell you with an audible sound.... without you having to look and think.... that there is knock.... and get out of it. I think they are under $50. I purchased one after a discussion with Razor (Julio).... I asked him why did I need an audible knock detector... since I had DirectScan...... he said.... that I would have a perfect datalog of what happened when it blew up...... I bought one the next day..... cause he was right.

I am not trying to knock the scanmaster.... just the opposite... it is irreplaceable for a day in day out watchful eye on all systems. It just isn't a serious tuning tool. FWIW... I'm fixing to get a SM for my car.... and buy a PowerLogger to use to tune by....

HTH

 

[notacarlo]

I wouldn't offer you a guarantee. But that's just me watching the 30 threads started by you and seeing the end result.

I have been on here for a loooong time, and this is a first.

 

[notacarlo]

double post

 

[JOHNDEEREGN]

I think it is time for an IP check,,,,

 

[GNAT87]

FWIW... 2.1 knock didn't bust the piston. You were monitoring this on a scanmaster correct?

The scanmaster is a very valueable everyday tool. It can show you what the computer is seeing and be used to diagnose nearly any ECM/sensor issue.... or give clues where to look next. What it can't do is update any faster than the ECM gives it data thru the datastream it uses.

It updates every couple seconds or so. An aweful lot can happen between refreshes....that is why I personally don't recommend the scanmaster as a serious tuning tool. You could have had 20 degrees of knock and not known it unless you knew what you were hearing.....The SM simply doesn't update fast enough. They do have some chips that limit the data and make it update faster if the scanmaster is the right version..... but it still isn't as good of a tuning tool as DirectScan or the PowerLogger. The DirectScan... will update 18 times per second.....and show you piles of data at one time on the screen. I am running one. I am probably about to step up to a PowerLogger. Similar tool... just has some inputs to log more than DS. Both need a laptop.

IMHO another "must-have" tool is a Caspers audible knock detector. It can be soldered in near the ECM and will sound an audible alarm the instant knock is detected. It can and will save your engine.... cause it can immediately tell you with an audible sound.... without you having to look and think.... that there is knock.... and get out of it. I think they are under $50. I purchased one after a discussion with Razor (Julio).... I asked him why did I need an audible knock detector... since I had DirectScan...... he said.... that I would have a perfect datalog of what happened when it blew up...... I bought one the next day..... cause he was right.

I am not trying to knock the scanmaster.... just the opposite... it is irreplaceable for a day in day out watchful eye on all systems. It just isn't a serious tuning tool. FWIW... I'm fixing to get a SM for my car.... and buy a PowerLogger to use to tune by....

HTH

Sorry to hijack the thread but does the audible knock detector pick up alot of false knock as well. My caspers knock gauge goes off when the tires break loose ect. Sure would hate that thing screaming at me all the time.

 

[86GN-862+2]

You sure the 2.1 was not the version of the scanmaster showing up on the screen? I gues it could happen if there were lose connections. Like turn it on and off.

Piston could have warped due to lean condition?? loss of compression = bad rings = bent valves = blow gasket. Which one was it?

 

[liv4gnz]

it might have been a little lean around 770s

the car was all original

extra boost

some previous knock but nothing more than 3 in the past

and that huge vacume leak with that map line off could of done it

 

[Grumpy]

and that huge vacume leak with that map line off could of done it

the line off AND a chip set up for "ALKY" use = BOOM ..neither is working .. Sorry but I think you are way over your head. good luck ..

 

[DailyDrifter]

You work at a shop (jiffy lube)? Why didnt you leakdown test it? You need to take that car to someone, otherwise your just pissin up a rope at this point.

Post up pics of the plugs.

+1 on Grumpy, I belive he is dead on with his theory.