Opinions Needed: Stroker 109 Rod to Block Clearance Issues…

[J Banning]

Problem: #2 rod bolt hits the block where the oil galley is.

Motor setup:
- 109 block.
- Cat stroker crank.
- K1 rods with as-shipped ARP bolts.

What is the common workaround for this?
I'm praying that I can clearance the block enough that I don't break into the oil galley passage. How likely is that to happen? What have most others experienced? If the oil galley is breached, what’s the fix?

Note: In the picture below, the angle that it was taken at makes the situation look a little worse than it is.

Thanks,
-Banning.

 

[disco stu]

For one, grind a little off the edge of that bolt, it will drastically reduce the amount to grind off the block. Wrap tape around the threads, chuck it in a drill and get to it on a bench grinder. Not sure how much this affects blance though, last one i did came like this and balanced ready to go.

You will have to grind some off the block. I was able to get .060 clearance without breaking through.

If you do you will have to get it bushed.

 

[J Banning]

Thanks Stu, that's what I was thinking -- take some off the bolt then go to work on the block.

.060" is the common clearance suggested between block and rotating assembly?

 

[disco stu]

.060 is plenty but I would not go less than that. I used a tig filler rod as a guage.

 

[WSLN 6]

Yep, had to do the same to my block on the oil passage. Thought I was good to go until I had to take the grinder to the side of 2 rods due to them hitting the cam lobe on a 210/215 installed straight up......good luck!

 

[turbodave231]

For gosh sakes.......don't grind that rod bolt!!! grind the block. If you break through, you can sleeve the oil passage with a brass tube and dimple the tube in.

Guys with Stage 1 blocks have been doing this for years.

The pictures are a S1 block with a 3.625 stroke and Carrillo rods

 

[Lee Thompson]

Can I butt in without sounding like a know -it-all

Just finished doing this today.
First off it is # 1 rod bolt hitting near # 2 hole.
I am going to try and post some pics.
I DID grind some off the bolt head.
Prior to gring the bolt weighed 33 grams
After grinding it weighed 32.7 grams.
Take the material off the edge of bolt while retaining most the 12 point shoulders
I had a gage made with the bigger end being .070 larger in dia. than the small end. Small end just slightly larger than 5/8 in.

 

[Lee Thompson]

couple more pics

as you can see I used some high $ tools.
Hope you can how I used the squares to go from the grinding spot to the gage. Constantly checking the depth with the squares. I finished with .060 clearance and a .070 wall thickness.
The block must be stationed as shown for this to work.
Be carefull as the block is none to steady in that position.
Goes without saying that the work surface must be smooth.
I feel very comfortable with this block prep.
Best of luck.

 

[Lee Thompson]

the last pic

Is showing a .060 thick plastic cable tie. (electrical item)

 

[Lee Thompson]

grinding the rod bolt

Torque the bolt to desired value, mark the offending edge then only grind that edge.

 

[charlief1]

There is one other solution. If you take the rods to a machine shop they should be able to machine a small amount off the rod cap where the bolt hits the rod without sacrificing strength. Probibly about .080 should do it.

 

[Nick Micale]

i have to go with Dave on this one.

We are a machine shop and would never clearance a rod cap, bolt or nut. I can hear it now, "you guys screwed up and I spun a rod bearing."

do the grinding on the block.

 

[cruzn57]

I agree with Nic

sleeve the oil passage,
Zimmerman did my block that way,
don't mess with rod,bolts, caps.
they are stressed items, the oil passages aren't !!!

 

[Lee Thompson]

Sorry

I wasted my time on this post. Disregard all my post on this topic. Thanks

 

[ijames]

I wasted my time on this post. Disregard all my post on this topic. Thanks

No you didn't. Love the height gage setup; if nothing else it will tell you when you are about to break through if you don't want to grind the bolt. And while I agree it would be best not to touch the rod cap or bolt, the fact is there are bunches of 383 Chevy's put together each year by ginding on the bolt and/or cap and they seem to hold up just fine.

 

[wbrophy]

News Flash!!!

You still may have to grind a small amount on some of the bolt heads for clearance at the cam lobes depending on the cam.

 

[Ed Valvo]

Wow, I wonder how much material needs to be remove for DLS's new 3.75 cranks!

 

[gnxtc2]

IMHO, when the power level gets this high, I would look into a Duttweiler type oil system.

Then you can grind the oil passage to whatever depth you want without worries. Plue you don't have to sleeve anything.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[S2V6RACER]

Wow, I wonder how much material needs to be remove for DLS's new 3.75 cranks!

Good question. I know he would hit me over the head with the crank if I wanted to use the stock oiling system on a stock block using that large stroke crank.

 

[leophious]

Lee Better check with O.C.