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Opinions on theG-Body drilled rotors please.

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turbov6joe

Signal 1 J-12
Joined
May 22, 2002
Messages
2,220
Anyone using the G-Body drilled-slotted rotors he sells....opinions good or bad please! I need to buy a set ASAP and have found only a few other sources for like rotors...might as well support a vendor.

TIA
 
Anyone using the G-Body drilled-slotted rotors he sells....opinions good or bad please! I need to buy a set ASAP and have found only a few other sources for like rotors...might as well support a vendor.

TIA

Dont buy drilled or slotted rotors. They will eat your pads and warp. Unless you are a serious autocrosser and dont mind going through brake parts becuase you need the de-gassing features of the drilled rotors, dont buy them. Otherwise you are spending your money on merely looks. Just get a good set of HAWK HPS pads and be done with it.
 
Dont buy drilled or slotted rotors. They will eat your pads and warp. Unless you are a serious autocrosser and dont mind going through brake parts becuase you need the de-gassing features of the drilled rotors, dont buy them. Otherwise you are spending your money on merely looks. Just get a good set of HAWK HPS pads and be done with it.

I guess my pop has had good luck then...he has had a set of NAPA drilled/slotted rotors with ceramic pads on his car for 3 years with no problems at all. Thanks for the input.
 
I suppose if you just want them for the look then go for it! You really dont need them though.
 
It's true you don't really need drilled and slotted rotors on a street car, but, you don't need 500 ft.lbs. of torque either. And how many of us have that? COOL CARS SHOULD HAVE COOL BRAKES!!
 
if you have the money get the all wheel disk brake setup from baer or willwood
 
Drilled/Slotted rotors look cool. There I said it!

For everyday street driving they'll be fine as long as you avoid the chinese junk.

I plan on getting a set of slotted & dimpled rotors, so they look decent but w/o the drawbacks of drilled holes.
 
For no more street driving my car sees I'm not overly worried about it. My stockers are warped and need to be turned so I fingered I'd throw some drilled ones on there for the heck of it. At 120+ mph and a real short run off at my local track I want all the braking available with a stock system. Right now I don't have the cash for a high dollar set up like Baer and Wilwood, maybe someday when I finish mucking with all my other toys;)
 
:confused:
I am confused concerning drilled rotors. I was led to believe drilled rotors were prone to crack. My confusion starts when I see GM putting drilled rotors on the Z06.

I purchased slotted rotors from Baer.
 
:confused:

My confusion starts when I see GM putting drilled rotors on the Z06.

I purchased slotted rotors from Baer.

All drilled rotors are not the same. Heat soaks differ. Different sizes.

Varying metallurgy on the rotors. Different drilling procedures.

Various heat-treat and or cryo rotor prep treatments.

Z06 rotors are massive & heavily air-cooled, per GM engineering.


Cooling slots on TR rotors = Good. Drilled TR rotors = Pass.
 
I'm sure the drilled rotors on the Z06 are 3 or 4 x's more expensive then the rotors I'm putting on my car....I'll take my chances anyhow.
 
I had cross drilled rotors on my 99 Z28 camaro... stopped GREAT at 155MPH (no not in the quarter... on the highway )

and they NEVER cracked or had problems.

You get what you pay for just like with anything else... and they should actually warp LESS than a standard rotor... not more if they arent a POS.

I had WAAAYY less brake fade with cross drilled rotors and would buy them again in a heart beat. Just get a good set...
 
I've had the cross-drilled/slotted zinc plated rotors on my GN for like 5 yrs. now without any problems with them, although they were a little pricey when I bought them back then.
 
I've had the cross-drilled/slotted zinc plated rotors on my GN for like 5 yrs. now without any problems with them, although they were a little pricey when I bought them back then.

ditto
i had them on a 3400#car that went 132mph and no issues here and they didnt fade.... :rolleyes: My 2 cents
 
You guys that are claiming they are good - Post up where you got them or what brand. Thanks
 
Lots of different ones out there. Baer came out with the Decelarotors but are on back order til Feb. Look on Auto Parts Fast at RockAuto and they have a few brands there. I see Raybestos has a couple of different ones on that site.

Jegs and Summit offer different ones as well.
 
Hydroboost Conversion

The Main Reason Rotors Warp, Is Because The Back Brakes Are Weak. They Should Have Enough Power To Pull The Entire Chassis Back From The Rear. The Factories Have Been Gun Shy About Too Much Rear Brake, As They (drum Brakes) Can Lock Up Much Easier. This Is O.k., Until, In The Rain, Rear Lock Up Can Make The Car Twist Around And Cause Head-ons. Bringing The Rears Up Is A Fine Line. We Pioneered The Use Of The 7/8" Wheel Cyls In 1987, Instead Of The Factory 3/4" Cyls. This Brought The Heat Off Of The Rotors. Drilling Holes Leads To Cracks And A "cheese Grater" Effect On The Pads. Cast Iron Is Durable, But Likes Even Temperatures Across The Casting. What We Do On Most Vehicles, Especially Suburbans And F350's, Is Cut The Splash Shield And Bend It To Become An Air Scoop Into The Rotor. Rotors Suck Air Into The Inside Center, And Fling It Out Centrifugally, Like A Turbo, Or Hair Dryer. The Old Drum Brake Cars Had Full Hub Caps. The Daytona Cars Removed The Headlights And Ran A Hose Down Into Ventilated Backing Plates To Cool The Brake Shoes. When G.m. Went To Discs, They Designed The Rally Wheel With Slots For Air. All Of The Custom Wheels Out Now, With All The Swoopy Slot Designs Are Just A Variation Of The Rally Wheel. The Moral Is With Adequate Stopping Pressure, And Even Front To Rear Brake Balance, Drilled Rotors Are Not Necessary. Drilling Actually Reduces The Friction Surface.
 
Yeah, dont use cross drilled rotors... just because race cars, and companies like mercedez benz, ferrari, lamborgini, etc. use them on ALL thier ultra high peformance vehicles, doesnt mean they are worth a crap. :rolleyes:

Just use the stock garbage, thats always best :rolleyes:

Reduced brake fade due to the lack of immense heat will out stop the stockers even though they have more of a "friction surface".

Not to mention, the HEAT is what causes the rotor to warp... thats why the disks are venitlated to begin with... but that doesnt hold up under extreme conditions. Cross Drilled rotors WORK.

Everyone that blabs on about them cracking or not being effective has never used them or their head for that matter. OR they buy chinese metal made garbage for cheap on ebay like a moron. With all the engineering that goes into race cars, if regular rotors were better, or if cross drilled rotors cracked, do you think THEY would use them?

Cause thats what they want at 200MPH... To not be able to stop and to crack their rotors. LOL.

Sorry, rough day at work... had to vent somewhere. No offense to anyone.

I feel better now.
 
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