Possible tps issue?

Af 03
L8 26
Bat 13.3
Int 133
Bl 160
TPS .44
Iac 12

Did one WOT run, 7 degrees of retard before I backed off

You have an issue, your BLM of 160. The ecm is thinking lean condition and dumping fuel. Which explains your low end power issue.
Re check the translator settings make sure there correct. You were at 119 prior so I suspect the settings.
 
When I first put the translator on I set maf and wot to 4 on the translator. With these settings bl was 119, however the low end power issue was worse. I set maf to 5 and car does better but the scanner is reporting lean condition. How could richening the mix make it run leaner, or did I adjust it backwards?
 
When I first put the translator on I set maf and wot to 4 on the translator. With these settings bl was 119, however the low end power issue was worse. I set maf to 5 and car does better but the scanner is reporting lean condition. How could richening the mix make it run leaner, or did I adjust it backwards?

Set the MAF base to 1, for now keep MAF WOT at 5. What are the switches set at? That is an LS1 MAF correct?
 
Drove car on setting 2. Car boosts to 10# starts sputtering and refuses to accelerate
 
That’s good 124, leave it like that. Disconnected the battery to reset the ecm then drive the car to let it relearn. Need to address the KR issue next.
 
Car sputters at 10# on this setting bogging badly, I’ll reset the computer and try again
 
Drove car on setting 2. Car boosts to 10# starts sputtering and refuses to accelerate

Your gonna want to verify fuel pressure at this point. You need to measure psi at idle and wot. Due a search on fuel pressure gauges.
 
Aww jeez. I just put in new pump and filter, pump is hot wired. What could cause low fuel pressure? The car has an adjustable regulator but I’ve never touched it.
 
Aww jeez. I just put in new pump and filter, pump is hot wired. What could cause low fuel pressure? The car has an adjustable regulator but I’ve never touched it.

Fuel pressure rises with each psi of boost pressure 1:1 so base fuel pressure at idle zero boost 40 psi. Add 10 # boost should 50 psi.
Could be anything from electrical, bad adjustment but you need to rule fuel pressure is good or bad.
 
You can rent or buy a gauge attached to a flexible hose put the gauge under the windshield wiper to hold in place. I have a gauge mounted to my hood full time. It’s invaluable when troubleshooting
 
Ok, I’ll pick one up at the ‘zone tomorrow and report in. I’m a bit skeptical on the fuel pressure issue. My skepticism is most likely a symptom of my own ignorance. I don’t see how pressure could be too low to run right at 50% throttle at 10# but earlier today during wot testing, the car is literally running faster than I’ve ever seen it go, wot at 18#. I guess I don’t see how both can be true.
 
It already has changed completely. The surge of power past 10# actually startled me a bit on the first shakedown run after changing the maf. The car has gone from pretty fun and peppy weekend car to an absolute savage. If my fuel pressure checks out tomorrow I’m probably gonna order my turbotweak chip, and down the rabbit hole I go, RIP my wallet thanks guys.
 
Ok I got this gauge and she reported 39# at idle. Took car for drive, fuel pressure throughout power band is normal. The thing is I did nothing to the car since I put it in the garage last night. I dunno if the car just needed another drive cycle to figure it’s shit out but problem has FIXED ITSELF. Power delivery and boost are smooth across the band. The only thing to do right now I guess is to address the 7 degree kr at wot. I’m currently on setting maf 2 wot 4
 

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That’s great, now you know fuel delivery is not the problem. These cars are a blast to drive when there running right.
 
Lose that Red's chip and get a TT from Eric. 7* KR is NOT acceptable, unless false knock
 
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