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Power touring GN Build Thread

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Thats some nice port work. I bent a carbide bit also when I was doing mine. It can be very time consuming to do this type of work.
 
Thats some nice port work. I bent a carbide bit also when I was doing mine. It can be very time consuming to do this type of work.

Yup, my brother is used to doing aluminum heads on Mustangs.. I'm not too sure he enjoys working on the irons, but it's harder to screw them up..

My advice to anyone considering doing their own port work is to consider the reason you're doing it first. If it's financial your time must not be worth much, plus factor in the cost of tools, bits, and sand paper. I suggest save your money and order Champion heads... unless you enjoy this type of work and you already have the tools.
 
The large majority of the flow increases is getting rid of all the shrouding in the bowl just below the valve seat. It's amazing the amount of metal just hanging out there in the flow path causing a choke point.
 
I removed the stock front suspension today. Sway bar linkage needed a cutoff wheel to remove, other than that pretty straightforward. This undercoating is a mess, it's going to be soooo nice once it's removed. I cleaned up the passenger side section with a wire wheel and it looks like a new frame, por15 is going over it tomorrow. I'll post pics later tonight I'm beat.


Btw, I'm going to upgrade the steering shaft to a Jeep unit. I removed an upper and lower bolt on the stock shaft, but it seems stuck. Anything I'm missing?
 
Sometimes the collapsible part of the shaft gets stuck. Id put some penetrating lube and try to collapse.
 
Steering shaft removed. A good bit of Ziebart undercoating was keeping it stuck together. Some gentle persuasion with Mr. Hammer did the job.

FYI, if you haven't read eariler the Ziebart undercoating is a blessing and a curse. The metal on this car is fabulous one you get it off. Removing it is the worst part. It's messy and it usually means lots of time on your back with a grinding wheel. In my case I bought a harbor freight 4" grinder "Chicago" brand. (Pictured) The wire cup style brush is actually a quality piece from Ace Hardware and it's been great. I'm spinning that joke full RPM and so far no metal in my face. It helps that I've been wearing a full face shield though. ;) Highly recommended! Unless you like the taste of undercoating and wire.

The Frame is shaping up nicely and should be ready for a coat of POR-15 soon. I'll just have to spend some time wiping off the oily residue that remains. Getting around the brake and fuel lines without bending them is a challenge.. any suggestions there? Once I got the undercoating off I noticed the factory welds on the front crossmember leave a lot to be desired. I guess hydroformed frames weren't in vouge yet.

In case you're wondering the front suspension is being canned. If you need something and you're in the area let me know. It's a mess.

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I've found the following to be the best chemical to remove any type of undercoating residue that remains. Gas will work too, but this works even better.
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Make sure you wear some kind of respirator. I use a kind with canisters, just a normal dusk mask will not suffice.


Also I received my jeep steering shaft from a fellow board member on here: "G-Boz" Here is a look at it compared to the stock shaft.

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I've been mostly playing the part waiting game.. though I did get the frame por-15'd. It's much shiner than I like (would have like a more satin look) for those newbs that have not used por-15.... wear gloves, and put something down to contain spills. I also bought one of those tyvek work suits at Lowes to protect my clothes and the rest of my body. The fumes aren't bad so I didn't wear a respirator as I did stripping the frame, but I've used this stuff before and I know once it's on you it's only going to fall off when your skin cells do..
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Looking good James, I have done engines and frames with that stuff, if you don't clear coat it it will fade.
The wire brush can also be used to remove skin stained with POR-15.
Guessng you did not reweld the frame, my 67 Camaro was just as bad, I ground it all down then rewelded every seam 100% with my stick welder, I hate nooks and crannies that hold dirt.
 
Been awhile since updates. I've been working on my other cars. Anyway here are the heads from the machine shop..

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Looking great James..... Rocky hooked you up ;)..... hopefully you guys are doing okay. Tried to find you on the PowerTour but you know how things go.
I dont know how i missed this thread but looks like things are really coming along. Need more photos. How's the engine coming? Pick any colors yet?

aaron
 
I haven't updated for awhile but since last time I've bought and installed ridetech's single adjustable coil overs and track4 Baer brakes from GNS. The musclebar swaybar is modular and pretty nice. It may not be worth the cost but having matching suspension components that were designed to work together was an important factor for me.

I've done a little powder coating too and I'm about to start major progress.
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Cooked the intake and plenum decided on Eastwood cast aluminum for a clean stock look. The flash makes it looks blueish but it's not. Powder coating can be quite addictive.
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Steering box cleaned painted and installed with the jeep shaft. I did need to make a flat spot where the jeep shaft attaches to the steering column to get it to fit correctly bit it was no big deal. I also cleaned and reinstalled the fuel lines. All of these parts were terrible to clean because if the amount of undercoating but again the metal was in great shape.
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Pulled the rear it should look a lot better soon . Every. Single. Backing plate bolt broke but they'll be drilled out anyway for the brake install.
 
Looking good. Been following your build. Great pics too.:)

Mike B.
 
Great, my family is planning a move soon so hopefully I can have it together in time. New wheels have been ordered and they should arrive in a month. The rear is almost finished should have pics soon.
 
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