Predict who is gonna get killed

[toomanymodz]

Ok, I just finished installing my new Weber stroker engine (see sig for combo) and I've been taking it easy breaking it in. I've got the boost set way-low at around 13 psi. The turbo doesn't even horse sneeze since it's so out of it's efficiency range. The car pulls o.k. at best. Pig rich, so I've dialed back the base fuel to 115 and may have to dial it back more. And my tranny is shifting at 4900 instead of 5600, which I have to figure out why.

Well, my buddy who has a T-type wants to run me. He said he is gonna hand me my arse. His combo is: .030 over 109 block, bone stock non-ported heads, 208 flat tappet, 43# injectors, T44A turbo, RJC front-mount, 2800 stall, 3.90 gears. He's running around 14 to 15 psi boost. His car pulls pretty good at that boost level.

He wants to run me at the same boost. So basically I must set my boost also at 14 to 15 psi, so that it's apples to apples. Will he win? will it be a tie? We line 'em up within the next day or so. Place yer votes.

 

[RIFF RAFF]

weber stroker ..no roller cam ? why the break in ? .. you should be able to take that motor from the crate and boost up.. so im going with the guy who's not affraid ... stock 109

 

[Phoneguy]

If you are running pig rich on a new motor and baby-ing it with boost you are going to have a problem. You are washing the cylinder walls with fuel...BADDDDDDDDDD !!!!!!!!!! Throw some boost at it and seat the rings...

Bryan

 

[JOHNDEEREGN]

X3

 

[toomanymodz]

I agree about washing the cylinders. So far i've only tested to see where the boost is and I didn't stay in it. And the TT6.0 chip has wide-band correction, so it pulled the A/F's back quickly anyways. We might run tomorrow so I'd better hurry and connect the RJC boost controller (currently i just have a hose running straight between the turbo and actuator).

 

[Phoneguy]

You have a roller cam, after 15 minutes of run time change the oil to remove any impurities and it is ready to race if built right.

Bryan

 

[SuperSix]

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

And do a search on break in here. You need to pit some boost in to seal the rings...

 

[TurboTGuy]

weber stroker ..no roller cam ? why the break in ? .. you should be able to take that motor from the crate and boost up.. so im going with the guy who's not affraid ... stock 109

I'm with the Oilman!

 

[toomanymodz]

Thanks for the break-in tips. I cranked the rod a couple more turns. Remember he said I must only run 14 to 15 psi to match his boost. So for tomorrow's race, I've gotta get the A/F ratio dialed in as close as possible. Luckily the TT6.0 has wide band correction which will correct a rich/lean condition really quick. I set the A/F to 11.3 for 1st/2nd gear, and 11.1 for 3rd. I changed the oil and the break-in oil looked good. At idle the engine holds a steady 15 hg vacuum. I've got 22 psi in the drag radials. He runs regular radials. We're going to start from a slow roll, and no brake-boosting will be allowed. We'll have to see how this goes. My buddies car runs pretty strong. His turbo is a TA-49 (i mis-typed it in my first post)

 

[Grumpy]

14/15#s of boost.. unreal !! Hell let me race both of you guys with my Mothers Lincoln MKS Turbo!!

 

[SuperSix]

Best post on engine break in.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/engine-tech/236957-engine-break-procedure.html#post1747411

With a roller cam, just start it up and run it at an elevated RPM to get good oil and coolant flow. Run it for about 15-20 minutes and check for leaks, rattles, etc. If there is a problem, fix it (duh) and then change the oil and filter. Cut the filter apart and check for bad stuff(I use a putty knife/gasket scraper and a hammer with the filter in a vise) and then start engine and let it warm up. Then put it in gear and slowly bring the boost up (with foot hard on brake pedal) to 3-5 psi boost and then slam the throttle to the floor and let the tires break loose. (warn the neighbors first, though. ) Then take it for a drive to the local track and drive it like you stole it. The crankshaft should NEVER touch the bearings, and the boost/burn-out will surely seat the rings if all the machine work was done correctly. Break-in complete. I have never understood the purpose of driving it like a granny for the first 250-500 miles. If it was machined and built correctly, then the above break-in is all that is needed. If it's gonna fail, it will when you slam the throttle down the first time. I'd rather it happen then instead of ten miles down the road. Good luck.:smile:

 

[toomanymodz]

Proper break-in is always subject to debate. I come from the Viper world and those folks who 'run it like they stole it' are the same ones who later come asking 'is it normal to burn a quart every 1k miles?'. I wouldn't WOT my Vipers until about 500 miles and mine wouldn't burn a single drop of oil.

 

[toomanymodz]

This site is finally back up. It was down for most of the afternoon.

Ok, my buddy and I did a quick run from a slow roll. No brake-boosting was allowed. He counted down from three and we smashed the go-pedals. I pulled a car or car and a half pretty quickly and after that his losses weren't near as fast. At 14 psi of boost, my car will walk most cars already. I'll be installing the RJC boost controller tomorrow and bumping it up to 18 psi. This should be interesting. The goal is 20 psi with no knock. That's what my old combo was capable of. The old combo was high 11 sec, so this new combo better be much faster than that.

 

[Blazer406]

At 14 psi...... yawn... yawn.......

Crank that sucker up.... let the big dog eat...... you really need an alky kit.... then go to 23-25 psi... and 19 deg of timing in high gear........

20 psi on straight pump gas is living on the edge if you ask me.....

 

[RobsIron]

The 3.90's aren't helping your buddy. Are you running 3.42's?

 

[toomanymodz]

The 3.90's aren't helping your buddy. Are you running 3.42's?

He got a good deal on a good used 8.5 posi rear, but it came with 3.90's. I'm still running the stock 3.42's.

On a side note, I compared my Powerlogger files from today's runs with some runs from the drag strip with the old combo. When I ran 12.11 with my old combo, on about 21 psi, it took exactly 4 seconds to go from 30 MPH to 70. Today with the new combo, at 14 psi, I achieved 72 MPH in the same 4 seconds. So this combo is probably in the 11.90's at only 14 psi. Tomorrow I'll be bumping it up to 18 and recording some more runs.

 

[BIGPSI]

i can't believe anyone with a car other than bone stock is still running 14 to 15 of boost! hell i have no knock at 20# on 94 octane

 

[toomanymodz]

i can't believe anyone with a car other than bone stock is still running 14 to 15 of boost! hell i have no knock at 20# on 94 octane

I agree. But my friend's car has always been plagued with knock. He hasn't been able to figure out why. It runs pretty darn good at 14 psi, so he just leaves it there.

 

[toomanymodz]

Update: I noticed a lot of oil on the ground and all over the bell-housing. Seems like the rear intake manifold seal is leaking pretty badly. Looks like I'll need to pull the intake and re-do the seal. I may change to different valve cover breathers too. These don't seem to allow much air to pass through so I'm thinking the crankcase might of got pressurized. I've heard of bad PCV's doing that as well. The car will be down for a while since the GF states that I'm spending too much time on my hobbies. Hopefully I'll have it running again within a month or two.

 

[SuperSix]

I would check your valve covers first.

Clean it all up, maybe add dye - but you may get a better idea of where it's coming from.