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Problem removing cam sensor

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This is the first time it has ever been apart. I am the original owner. The only reason I'm changing the timing set is for preventative maintenance.

Bill, would you be so kind as to post some pics of the upper timing gear without the chain. I'm very interested to see the condition of the teeth and if there are any notable cracks. What do you intend on replacing the chain with? Double roller?
 
Bill, would you be so kind as to post some pics of the upper timing gear without the chain. I'm very interested to see the condition of the teeth and if there are any notable cracks. What do you intend on replacing the chain with? Double roller?

I will post up some pics tomorrow. I haven't taken it off yet. From what I can see it looks to be in very good condition. I'm replacing it with a stock set from Comp Cams.

At this point I am wishing I never got into this. This job is much more involved than some people make it out to be. It just seems as tho it has been a waste of time and money.
 
It's cheaper than being stranded in the middle of a multi-lane road and a wrecker bill. When the top gear lets go, that's right where the car STOPS.

Plus, the oil mods are free.
 
So far you are only out some gaskets and time. You could inspect it and put it back together if everything looks fine to you. Depending on how you intend on driving the car of course.

At least you will have the piece of mind of knowing the condition of your engine.

I like to anticipate things rather than react to a situation that could have been avoided.

If it were me i would at least get a new billet timing gear set,roller cam button since you are already there.
 
Like earlbrown said, you don't want to get stuck in the road if and when the nylon cam gear lets go.
Any work on your engine is more involved than some people make it out to be, and that's cause they already did the work, and soon you'll be one of the guys saying it wasn't that bad.
Not to scare you or nothing, but after you completed this job, start thinking about your rear end seal, since that too will sooner or later will have to be replace.
I'm not knocking your intelligent, but looking at your timing chain position you might want to rotate the engine until #1 piston is TDC and both timing marks are facing each other, or you will be doing this all over again when your engine won't start.
I know I already posted this picture once before, but one tooth missing is too much to lose a engine.;)
 

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I know I already posted this picture once before, but one tooth missing is too much to lose a engine.

It seems your car needs to brush it's teeth more often so as not to have to go to the dentist and get a timing chain implant.:eek:
 
I know how ya feel Bill, sometimes you get into something and realize that all was just fine and could have been left alone. Then in the process you missed something or disturbed another and you've created another problem unrelated.
But like the other guys said, a least you'll have piece of mind when she's all buttoned up.
Is there any signs of chain stretch? Slack?
 
So far you are only out some gaskets and time. You could inspect it and put it back together if everything looks fine to you. Depending on how you intend on driving the car of course.

At least you will have the piece of mind of knowing the condition of your engine.

I like to anticipate things rather than react to a situation that could have been avoided.

If it were me i would at least get a new billet timing gear set,roller cam button since you are already there.


I have a new timing set and roller button on the bench ready to go on.

I am being proactive doing this job as I was not having any problems whatsoever. At least this gives me a learning experience and a chance to get all the nooks and crannies cleaned up. I hate dirt on my engine. Lol!
 
I know how ya feel Bill, sometimes you get into something and realize that all was just fine and could have been left alone. Then in the process you missed something or disturbed another and you've created another problem unrelated.
But like the other guys said, a least you'll have piece of mind when she's all buttoned up.
Is there any signs of chain stretch? Slack?


Exactly! I don't want to create any problems that weren't there. I am hoping when I get it all back together it still runs and I won't have any leaks. I have always done all of the work on this car and have been lucky so far!

It seems to me that there is some stretch in the original timing chain. But I am not sure how tight it's supposed to be?
ImageUploadedByTurboBuick Mobile1394134974.168056.jpg
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ii don't know if you can tell by these pics but there is sme slack.
 
And that is with the tensioner taking up more slack on the other side. The chains do stretch over time. Car <may> run a bit better with a new set on it.
 
Not to scare you or nothing, but after you completed this job, start thinking about your rear end seal, since that too will sooner or later will have to be replace.
I'm not knocking your intelligent, but looking at your timing chain position you might want to rotate the engine until #1 piston is TDC and both timing marks are facing each other, or you will be doing this all over again when your engine won't start.

Thanks for pointing that out. Before removing the cam sensor I set the motor at 25ATDC. Now I realize that has to be done later when I reinstall the cam sensor.

I'm assuming I can just turn the crank back until the timing marks line up. Is this ok?

Rear main seal is on the bench. That's next. Although looking at the condition of the rear now it is dry as a bone. It doesn't show even the very least sign that it's leaking. I am considering holding off?
 
The stock gears have all the nylon still on them and is in great shape for it's age.

It's good that you're changing it before you have a problem, like I said earlier you internals are immaculate stay with what has worked for you all these years.(y)
 
Do turn the crank so that the timing marks are facing each other (backwards is OK). After the timing chain is on give the crank a full turn so that both timing marks are at 12:00. That is TDC #1. Don't do this and the cam sensor will be 180* out.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
I have only used Mobil 1 since the day It came home from the dealer in '87. I change the oil and filter twice per year. I can't believe how clean the internals are in this motor. 74k miles
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I have only used Mobil 1 since the day It came home from the dealer in '87. I change the oil and filter twice per year. I can't believe how clean the internals are in this motor. 74k miles
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Thank you. That's all I needed to see. I hope mine looks that good. I've only had the valve covers off and it to looked like new.
 
I know how ya feel Bill, sometimes you get into something and realize that all was just fine and could have been left alone. Then in the process you missed something or disturbed another and you've created another problem unrelated.
But like the other guys said, a least you'll have piece of mind when she's all buttoned up.
Is there any signs of chain stretch? Slack?
You are better off. I pushed the limits on an old toyota for the timing assembly and trust me I could have replace the thing a dozen times with what I had to spend on it after it snapped.
 
Use some blue Lock Tite on the two bolts that hold the big gear on...
 
As I mention rotate the engine until #1 piston is TDC and both timing marks are facing each other, once you replace with new timing chain with same marking facing each other then you need to make a new mark the balancer.
If you know this or not read this and very important do you know how to prime for oil pressure?
http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/cam_sensor.htm
 

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