R12 to R134 convertion..need help

[robbyc]

drop in replacement

duracool is a drop in for 12 and works with the same pressures as 12 less head pressure than 134 is 10 percent more efficent than 12 around 30 percent better than 134 i have been using it since 1993 in my shop with no problems
robby http://www.duracool.com/

 

[Sal Lubrano]

Duracool is a great product! I personally use Autofrost. Which also is a direct drop in and uses mineral oil but a certification is needed to purchase.

 

[83ttypecooled]

conversion

Hi,
When it comes to switching refrigerants, 134a is a lame duck. My tta seems to do pretty good on the new stuff, and no leaks. I haven't touched it in two years, still blows cold.However, there are many less than successful conversions that have been done which have not satisfied the customer.I suggest, in these cases, that something like RB276 be used. It's a legal blend, comes with the oil in the charge. As said before,75 % of R12 charge should do it.

 

[norbs]

Well, Sal, i tried the blue tube and drove the car around and measured the temps in the city and highway, and at found the a/c did not cool as well with it above 45 mph (5 degree warmer) Now i do have a cotton front mount so i'm sure this has a huge effect on the condenser efficiency. I average 43 degrees on the highway still on a 95 degree humid day.

 

[Sal Lubrano]

Did you adjust the cycle switch?

 

[The Machine]

I had the system evacuated on my 87 GN, and then added Industrial ES-12a.
It works fine, and since the hoses up front are inherently prone to leaks, I just add a can or two each spring. The Industrial ES-12a is safe for the environment, so that's my problem if I want to waste it.

I didn't mess with any rings or oil or fittings.

Only problem is the cans are "old style", and it's hard to find shops who can work with them.

It's possible that the retro kit hoses take care of this problem, I just haven't tried to tap one of the Industrial ES-12a can with one yet.

 

[Blown&Injected]

Did several hours of reading about Duracool - lots of debate.

Although I have not used it, I have read enough, including some less than truthful comments, that I do not believe I will try it.

Besides the 134 conversions I have done have worked excellent and I have done nothing other than change the fittings and put the 134 gas and oil in the R12 system - all the same R12 hard parts.

It blows very cold and on one occasion about a year after the 134 change, the leak let enough 134 out to stop cooling - took about 5 minutes to the next Wall Mart to find a can that had the hose built in to top it off and I was cool again for the rest of the summer.

 

[salvageV6]

I use one can of Duracool a year in my GN that sits over the winter and still has the original R12 system.

Once charged it is a bit colder than the WE4 with the R134a conversion.

Each car takes about a can a year, I should use the systems more, but I prefer the windows open and the sunroof open on most days.

So far I've got almost 2 cans in 2 years of Duracool added to the GN, no issues yet.

Comes in screw top cans so be prepared with that type of filler hose if you try it.

 

[TWISTER]

I had part of a can of 134 left so I put it in to check for leaks w a bottle of soapy water to no avail. It may be a leaky coil. When they checked it a few years ago they didnt sniff there that I remember, Is there a way to check this before I take it to the AC shop? Thanks

 

[robbyc]

well epa ruels you can use it as a replacement for 134 so you must first convert a simple matter of installing fittings that cost 15 dollarsthen it can be used i will include the link to EPA s website to show i have been using this since the early 90s in many systems to keep from having to change the oils and in many problematic 134 systems that dont cool well http://www.epa.gov/ozone/snap/refrigerants/hc12alng.html#q16

 

[robbyc]

i use the cans that have dye in them then its a matter of taking a pair of blue blocker type glasses and a black light to find the leak if you see no evidence of a leak then look at the water drain for the evaporator and see if there is that tell tell green dye the dye can be bought at advance auto in a can of 134

 

[Blown&Injected]

I had part of a can of 134 left so I put it in to check for leaks w a bottle of soapy water to no avail. It may be a leaky coil. When they checked it a few years ago they didnt sniff there that I remember, Is there a way to check this before I take it to the AC shop? Thanks

For possible leaks in the evaporator coil, I have just used a halogen leak detector (sniffer type). Turn on the vent only, put the sniffer in the vent, then turn on the AC.

 

[robbyc]

be aware that those leak dectors go off if you blow in them giving a false positive

 

[Blown&Injected]

be aware that those leak dectors go off if you blow in them giving a false positive

that is why i say start with the vent only then go to AC.

It will usually not sound with just vent air and if it does, it goes quiet right-a-way. Then with the AC action, if there is a leak, it should sound - this test is probably similar to ohm'ing the spark coil - it may be bad and test good (but the testers are mighty sensitive), but if it tests bad, it is usually conclusive.

 

[TWISTER]

I have the r134 w the red dye in it but I was gonna talk to the AC shop before I dump another can in it.

 

[49-blues]

Where can i purchase some of the es12a and find out more information on it?

 

[The Machine]

Where can i purchase some of the es12a and find out more information on it?

I think I got a case for $40 on ebay, but you can search google for it also. Plus, it smells like pine :wink:

 

[Bob Avellar]

duracool is a drop in for 12 and works with the same pressures as 12 less head pressure than 134 is 10 percent more efficent than 12 around 30 percent better than 134 i have been using it since 1993 in my shop with no problems
robby http://www.duracool.com/

I want to order this in 6 oz. cans. How many cans whould it take to fill an empty turbo regal system? I'm speaking of the Duracool. I'm not that happy with the 134A.

 

[83ttypecooled]

Hi,
I don't blame you for being disappointed with your 134a conversion.The refrigerant is not a good retrofit for R12 systems.I have used it for a few years in my cars,and performance is acceptable, so I have left them alone, but honestly,if you have a tight system, stick with the 12.The reason dyes have become so prevalent is that electronic detectors, even the best, have a hard time picking up even moderate 134a leaks. It kind of ticks me off that I bought a Hitchcock hot diode detector a while back, aint worth a hoot for small leaks. $450 , bye bye. 134a is notoriously hard to detect anyway, hence the dye.The best retrofit stuff I have run into is RB276, a blend which, as far as I can tell from reading the EPA stuff, is legal. Duracool and Freeze12 and such are hydrocarbons, I think. Putting a potentially flammable product in an AC sytem makes me nervous. RB276 ,as I said before, is a blend of two or three refrigerants, contains the oil needed, too. The best thing is, it brings head pressures way down, so the compressor isn't beating it's brains out, like it does with 134a.
These are my opinions, borne of some experience. When either of my cars has AC problems, I intend to follow my own advice.Until then, I also follow the dictum: don't fix it if it aint broke! Good luck with your situation.

 

[aminga]

I want to order this in 6 oz. cans. How many cans whould it take to fill an empty turbo regal system? I'm speaking of the Duracool. I'm not that happy with the 134A.

'
The G-body system holds 3.25 lbs.