Rear frame X member?
- Thread starter Chuck Leeper
- Start date
X2
Yep.... Not everything around here is as stiff as I like it to be!!
Maybe we all need to chip in and send you and erector set then.
C
coach
Guest
Careful Charlie...Maybe we all need to chip in and send you and erector set then.
The moderators don't like "nasty" talk in here!!! Lol
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- Joined
- May 28, 2001
DANG!! I'm getting to feel more like Rodney Dangerfield, every day!!
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
A couple pics of the finished brkts...
4" x 1/8" flat stock.
The brkt w/ the diagonal piece added was an "engineering change"..Keeping all the pieces the same. Just rotate one to fit the other frame end. Bolt on, measure for the x bar, and weld in..
4" x 1/8" flat stock.
The brkt w/ the diagonal piece added was an "engineering change"..Keeping all the pieces the same. Just rotate one to fit the other frame end. Bolt on, measure for the x bar, and weld in..
C
coach
Guest
Damn good job Chuck.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
TANKS!
I plan on finishing it up tomorrow..
Will pull the rails in 1/4" to match your original frame measurements, and then cut/weld the bar in.
Pronto
Believe nothing you hear and half of what you see.
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2002
Those look great! Are you going to use 1" round or square stock or maybe 1x2 rectangle?
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Thanks!
I have some 1" sq x .120" wall. I'm also thinking about a piece of 1" x 2". I'm going to check w/ the steel supply guy, B4 I weld any more.
I'm still debating as to what the actual force inputs may be. IE: vertical bend, horizontal bend, compression, tension. I don't do the "twisties", so most of my activities will be on the street, and some track visits.
NE1 w/ some ideas as to what will occur?
If I were to use a glas bumper, I think Coach's idea of it being 2 x 2, for added gas tank protection, might be a good idea. [And, 3/16" materials could be an option.]
C
coach
Guest
Yep...my thoughts were aimed at the guys with glass or hollow steel bumpers. This would really help out more for safety as much as a brace.
You made your brace like you read the blueprint in my head...scary!!!
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You made your brace like you read the blueprint in my head...scary!!!
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- Joined
- May 28, 2001
Yep!
At times, I amaze myself!!
I am outstanding in my field......I was there, just last nite.
C
coach
Guest
If your gonna fab up stuff like this brace before you invest in the HR Bar...then you might have the cart before the horse. In all my talks and visits to Paul's shop...I do not think there is any twisting on the frame past the front mounting points of the rear trailing arms. If you twisting the rear frame horns...you need a cage, because there are not enough braces you could fab to stop it.
Custom fabbed up braces, like the one Chuck just built, should be in line behind the items you can purchase. I am a huge believer in welding the GNX Rear seat brace in, or making a sheet metal panel and using it the same way.
Then ALL the missing body bushings, GNX bushings, and the RJC engine brace. After that you can start to improve on the ones that nobody makes. Most guys on here are not making the kind of power needed to mod a frame to this extent.
I just built this killer front brace. It connects to all the places that the 3 bolt on braces connect that you buy from Kirban or other vendors, except I also stiffened it by using the front swaybar mounting pads too. I am not running a swaybar because I have the HR in the rear. The car still drive very nice before I made this brace. This will not allow any twist in the front...at all!!!
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Custom fabbed up braces, like the one Chuck just built, should be in line behind the items you can purchase. I am a huge believer in welding the GNX Rear seat brace in, or making a sheet metal panel and using it the same way.
Then ALL the missing body bushings, GNX bushings, and the RJC engine brace. After that you can start to improve on the ones that nobody makes. Most guys on here are not making the kind of power needed to mod a frame to this extent.
I just built this killer front brace. It connects to all the places that the 3 bolt on braces connect that you buy from Kirban or other vendors, except I also stiffened it by using the front swaybar mounting pads too. I am not running a swaybar because I have the HR in the rear. The car still drive very nice before I made this brace. This will not allow any twist in the front...at all!!!
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C
coach
Guest
My front brace also protects my front mount intercooler pipes. Serves 2 purposes.
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C
coach
Guest
No...the ATR bar attaches just like the stock. The HR bar is bolted to the rear housing and then it attaches to the frame using rod ends and an adjuster.
It's much more ridged. Others are gonna say there are cheaper bars that work the same, but as I stated...I've been to Paul's shop. There is a ton of engineering designed into his bar...
IT IS THE SUPERIOR BAR BY FAR.
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It's not that it's more rigid but where it attaches. The stock style bar attaches to the rear control arms and they flex. The axle and frame don't flex as much which is where the HR bar attaches. This ties the rear to the chassis better so it works better. Even going with a rear bar off an S-10 4 door 2 wd Blazer is better than the stock one since it does the same thing.
- Joined
- May 28, 2001
What baffles me is why did they flip the mounts from side to side. You would think it just make sense to keep both sides the same.
My guess would be twisting force on launch.
Yep. The fronts are the same side up...
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