Rear frame X member?

[Chuck Leeper]

Am putting a Wolfe bar on this rag.....Would be a HR, but this one was a steal @$200!

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Thanks!
I have some 1" sq x .120" wall. I'm also thinking about a piece of 1" x 2". I'm going to check w/ the steel supply guy, B4 I weld any more.
I'm still debating as to what the actual force inputs may be. IE: vertical bend, horizontal bend, compression, tension. I don't do the "twisties", so most of my activities will be on the street, and some track visits.

NE1 w/ some ideas as to what will occur?
If I were to use a glas bumper, I think Coach's idea of it being 2 x 2, for added gas tank protection, might be a good idea. [And, 3/16" materials could be an option.]

Stopped by the metal guy. He had a piece of 1.5 x 2.0, just 1+" longer than I needed. [49 7/16"]
Here tis, cut and welded in. Now, a clean up, and a paint job, and it's as done as it's going to get!!
Next, the nasties...Cleaning and painting the bottom of the body.

 

[charlief1]

Should work well Chuck. I think it may need to be mounted lower though to clear the filler a little better. Between the bracing at the rear cross member and the back one a notched frame wouldn't be a problem at all.

BTW, what's up with the caps on the spring mounts? You planning on using weight jack on it?

 

[lrayzer]

The round bar has much better torsional resistance, would like to see some gusseting from the tabs onto the bar, the movement of the rear framerail is an up and down issue from the forces applied to the frame rail forward.
You want to do what you can to prevent it from that axis of movement, the work you have done already should have firmed it up pretty well.

 

[coach]

Should work well Chuck. I think it may need to be mounted lower though to clear the filler a little better. Between the bracing at the rear cross member and the back one a notched frame wouldn't be a problem at all.

BTW, what's up with the caps on the spring mounts? You planning on using weight jack on it?

It will clear the filler neck by a mile. I laid under my car and gave Chuck all the dimensions.


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[coach]

The round bar has much better torsional resistance, would like to see some gusseting from the tabs onto the bar, the movement of the rear framerail is an up and down issue from the forces applied to the frame rail forward.
You want to do what you can to prevent it from that axis of movement, the work you have done already should have firmed it up pretty well.

Like I said earlier...if your flexing your frame that much after a brace like that...you need a cage. There are 2 body mounts right there too.


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[charlief1]

It will clear the filler neck by a mile. I laid under my car and gave Chuck all the dimensions.

That's what I was hoping for and thanks for the info Donnie.

 

[Pronto]

Looks good. I think it was worth your effort for adding rigidity.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Looks good. I think it was worth your effort for adding rigidity.

Thanks!
Just got a built 5.3, SX400 turbo, 4L80E, to go in this frame. We'll see how it stands up to a thou @ the flywheel!!!

 

[gnfanatic]

knowing Chucks capabilities, he was probably eating a pulled pork sandwich while fabricating this.

 

[coach]

knowing Chucks capabilities, he was probably eating a pulled pork sandwich while fabricating this.

Or...he was "pulling his pork" while he made this!!! Either way, job well done.


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[turbojoe1]

Lol

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Here we go again! The Rodney Dangerfield syndrome is setting in..............

 

[Chuck Leeper]

The round bar has much better torsional resistance, would like to see some gusseting from the tabs onto the bar, the movement of the rear framerail is an up and down issue from the forces applied to the frame rail forward.
You want to do what you can to prevent it from that axis of movement, the work you have done already should have firmed it up pretty well.

Have the gussets cut, but not yet welded in.

 

[DavidM]

Here is my attempt to try and brace the rear frame horns together. I've seen where square tubing is attached to the bumper support bolts, but I didn't think that was going to make much of a difference as opposed to bolting it to the actual frame.

Not knowing how to weld or know anyone for that matter, I went ahead and bolted a square tubing to the rear horns.

What I did is I cut a 1x1 square tubing with a hacksaw at 56". I drilled a 3/8 hole in the frame on each side. I drilled a 3/8 hole on the square tubing on each side. I removed the bumper and bumper supports from the frame. Slipped in a 3/8 x 2" bolt and washer on each side and put the tubing up agaisnt the frame through the bolt followed by washer and nut.
I then put the bumper support and bumper back in the frame. I could already tell how the frame horns were being compressed together as the holes for the bolts did not line up for the bumper support to frame as they have done the last few times I removed my bumper. I enlisted the help of my wife as she helped push the bumper as I tried to put the bolts back in place.

Total time= 45 Mins
Cost= $23 at Home Depot
I can feel the difference when going over turns at higher speeds as it centers out faster. Also, I feel less wobble when going over hard roads.
This rear bar compliments my homemade rear seat brace very well. Now I am just waiting for my jounce bars to arrive in the mail.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Here is my attempt to try and brace the rear frame horns together. I've seen where square tubing is attached to the bumper support bolts, but I didn't think that was going to make much of a difference as opposed to bolting it to the actual frame.

Not knowing how to weld or know anyone for that matter, I went ahead and bolted a square tubing to the rear horns.

What I did is I cut a 1x1 square tubing with a hacksaw at 56". I drilled a 3/8 hole in the frame on each side. I drilled a 3/8 hole on the square tubing on each side. I removed the bumper and bumper supports from the frame. Slipped in a 3/8 x 2" bolt and washer on each side and put the tubing up agaisnt the frame through the bolt followed by washer and nut.
I then put the bumper support and bumper back in the frame. I could already tell how the frame horns were being compressed together as the holes for the bolts did not line up for the bumper support to frame as they have done the last few times I removed my bumper. I enlisted the help of my wife as she helped push the bumper as I tried to put the bolts back in place.

Total time= 45 Mins
Cost= $23 at Home Depot
I can feel the difference when going over turns at higher speeds as it centers out faster. Also, I feel less wobble when going over hard roads.
This rear bar compliments my homemade rear seat brace very well. Now I am just waiting for my jounce bars to arrive in the mail.

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A suggestion:
Cut 2 pieces of tubing that will just slide inside the box tube. Put them in so the bolts will go thru the tube. Otherwise, the bolts will never stay tight, as the tube will crush.....

 

[captndave737]

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Anyone have a pic of the trailer hitch, or even better a modded one bolted up with the bumper on?

I just aw this thread. I didn't realize I was an early adopter of the rear frame brace 21

 

[usetaboost]

I think I just got dumber

 

[turbojoe1]

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I just aw this thread. I didn't realize I was an early adopter of the rear frame brace 21 years ago!View attachment 203447View attachment 203448View attachment 203449

Thanks for that, visually seeing it helps.

 

[WIKEDV6]

Here is what I did, I a not an Engineer or a chassis guy. I just kind of improvised as I went along!....... so take it for what it's worth!

Prasad