rebuild parts list please let me know what to expect

[jerritt]

ok im just focusing on the block and i have done research and took my block to the most experienced machine shop i could find with the grand national.
Machine work:
cleaned
bored .20 over
aligned honed
decked
drilled 2nd and 3rd main oil holes to 3/8
will have balanced once i get parts

Part ideas:
(im trying to get as many parts as i can from cottons performance)
forged crank 4340 stock
COMP Cams® Roller Cam Kit
-(ductile roller cam, double roller timing chain set, adjustable roller cam button, roller lifters, and high performance valve springs & locs.)
K1 H beam performance rods (5.960)
Diamond pistons (.20 over) pro select rings (reccomanded by cottons perfromace for these pistons)
RJC girdle (20 bolt)
Billet steel main caps

i know this is just the block and i need several more parts to go along with this to actually make my car faster but im trying to sure up the bottom end so no matter what direction i decide to go in i know i will be able to trust the bottom. i would like some feed back on this to let me know if i did alright or if i should start from scratch again lol thanks for any help

 

[haywire4130]

you're gonna need some more machine work when you get the girdle and main caps, speak to your machinist and make sure you budget for that... sounds like it will be a solid foundation, what heads are you planning on running? also, are you planning on assembling this yourself?

 

[turbofabricator]

WHY...WHY in the world would anyone drill the main feed holes in the 109 block? It does NOTHING except weaken an already weak block. I know only ONE machinst that recomends that, and every time I hear that I CRINGE!! I have built 1,000+ HP engines with STOCK main feed holes. Too late now, but NEVER do that in the future. The girdle does need more machine work. Easy to do, but it NEEDS to be line honed AGAIN after setting the girdle up. Sounds like your machinist got ahead of himself. Be sure you now order a .010" undersize timing chain. With TWO line hones, you'll need it. I do like the girdle. I think they are stronger than just steel caps. With an RJC girdle there is no need for steel caps. Save your money. What is your performance goal. In the future.......before you have ANYTHING done.......ask here FIRST. We could have saved you atleast one line hone. It MUST be done over after the install of the girdle. Now the cam to crank centerline has been moved twice. If you only plan on running high tens or slower, just forgo the girdle and main caps. Faster than high tens go with the girdle OR steel caps. Good luck.

 

[Nick Micale]

WHY...WHY in the world would anyone drill the main feed holes in the 109 block? It does NOTHING except weaken an already weak block. I know only ONE machinst that recomends that, and every time I hear that I CRINGE!! I have built 1,000+ HP engines with STOCK main feed holes. Too late now, but NEVER do that in the future. ..........Good luck.

+1 :biggrin:

 

[bison]

I'd want the line bore checked closely. Line honing won't correct a main bore alignment problem. If it's off it needs to be bored

 

[turbofabricator]

Hey Bison.....I've been home recouperating from an angiogram and am BORED. But I still feel mis-aligned. What am I doing wrong?:biggrin:

I think that with the right line hone machine it WILL align the main centerline. The honing bar MUST be very big (diameter) or it will flex. The best way is to CNC line bore on a Rottler (or similiar) machining center. Most machine shops do not have that EXPENSIVE mill. The line hone is only as good as the operator. I have a buddy that holds .0005" (or less) with .001" run out on his mill. Just gotta know what you are doing. But, I agree that if the operator or equipment is not up to par then yep, it won't work.