SD2/Powerlogger Pro general discussion

You have to download the tunerpro software. It will then let you edit your tables without being connected and in more than just the monitored cell.


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go to www.tunerpro.net and download the standard tunerpro software. (not the RT)

get it installed. then load the XDF file (this defines the tuning variables) from bob or eric (I have a version that may be old) then download the cal file from PLC and open it in tunerpro. This will give you some enhanced full-screen editing.

edit the file and save.

the upload back into the PL.


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Thanks for that huntsg, maybe I will do that after all so I have some flexibility.

Update - that did the trick - saved the log before I shut the engine off, and all the Tune stuff came with it. Works like it is supposed to! I'm liking this so far :)
 
offline tuning is something I want to add to PLC, but for now Tunerpro will work.

I need to update the xdf a little, then I will post it all here with screenshots.

Bob
 
Since the weather is getting cooler in places has anyone had to adjust cell block 11 for cold start since 128 is default , what numbers did anyone come up with to help out when cold starting in areas of colder climates .
 
Going back a few pages and the discussion about the map changing when the headlights are turned on. I had that problem with the original SD chip. Running an extra ground wire from the map connector ground wire to the body ground by the battery corrected it. No more fluctuations. I just stripped some insulation and wrapped my new wire around it then soldered.

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1. Ok I have the TR6 and just got the Two Step working. Never use a Two step before so should I be able to push the gas to the floor or just where the Two step comes on?

2. How do I get the SD2 chip from pulling out fuel while the Two step is active?

3. I set the mode 7 in the TR6 to on so that should pull out 10* of timing? So I'm running 28* it should pull it down to 18* while the Two step is active?


Shaun
 
To help my cold cranking I went up to 130 on block 11 and she busted off and kept running like a champ . I am lucky to be able to drive my T all year round where I live , I noticed some have already put there's up for the winter .

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1. Ok I have the TR6 and just got the Two Step working. Never use a Two step before so should I be able to push the gas to the floor or just where the Two step comes on?

2. How do I get the SD2 chip from pulling out fuel while the Two step is active?

3. I set the mode 7 in the TR6 to on so that should pull out 10* of timing? So I'm running 28* it should pull it down to 18* while the Two step is active?


Shaun

The connection information to turn off the correction is discussed on page 15 of this thread, here is a link to one of the posts

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/th...eneral-discussion.398402/page-15#post-3295476

You are correct about how the retard works.

Bob
 
Maiden voyage is complete, now to start the tuning...

Two questions:
1. Just curious - why is the default setting open loop? I would think the default would be closed loop for safety reasons, adding or subtracting fuel if need be?
2. Options - I could have sworn I saw something, somewhere, about the options, how there was this option and that and you added numbers together and entered that value in the Options cell and based on the number entered it would know what options you wanted enabled. Was I dreaming or something? I can't seem to find that anywhere now.
 
option 1 turns on the antitheft feature. there are some other options that are experimental that TurboDave and I are working on. drop me an email for details.

for first startup, you want things as simple as possible to make sure things are right.

Bob
 
Thanks Bob. If the other options are experimental so far, I must have been dreaming... must have confused this with something else I read somewhere along the way.
 
Has anyone made up different tunes for the Street tune with alky verses the Drag Strip tune with alky on the SD2 chip yet . What are some areas that would need changing for Drag racing over street tune that you have come up with . I know all cars are different so I will take that in to the factor also , I am just wanting some opinions on what you did that helped you to make them time slips quicker with the tune .
 
Well, it stands to reason that some of the areas that would need attention would be your Timing table, Target Air Fuel Ratio table, and of course your boost control settings, if you're using the SD2/Powerlogger Pro to control boost as I am. Depending on what changes you make may dictate some attention to your alky delivery also, but I can't help you there as I don't use the stuff.

Of course, remember that when you get your street tune to your liking, download and save that file to your computer using the download button on the tune page. I do that anytime I make changes. Then of course you'll be sneeking up on your race tune, or making bold changes based on what you already know what your car likes, BUT download and save your race file/tune also!!
 
Hey Dave can you explain how you use the powerlogger to control your boost? Right now mine just monitors. Also is there a way to bring in fuel pressure? I have a hood gauge but would like to record if possible. Thanks.


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If you are running the SD2chip/Powerlogger Pro combination, there are tune pages, and the Parameters tune page is where you tell Powerlogger all about your injectors, and a whole bunch of other stuff, among them being Boost Solenoid DC (1/2), Boost Solenoid DC (3rd gear), Boost Solenoid DC (4th gear).
It's an open loop type of boost control, but I have found it to be VERY stable and rock solid!

Here's a picture of the parameters tune page.

tune page parameters.jpg


Fuel pressure can be monitored by Any Powerlogger version by the use of a sending unit on the end of the fuel rail. It needs to have a 0-5v output, and sent to either analog input #4 or #5 on the powerlogger. This item has been addressed in a number of powerlogger related threads.
 
Thanks Dave. So how does that work? If I want say 20lbs of boost in 3rd gear do I just put in 20 in the box? Or is there a "conversion" for duty cycle?


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Well I just looked at your pic and there must be since yours is set at forty something. What is the equation for duty cycle to lbs boost?


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Well, there's no equation that I'm aware of because it will likely differ some from car to car depending on type of solenoid, and actuator in use. I'm running a single stock solenoid now(used to run a pair of stock solenoids), and an HD(14#) actuator. The numbers I use are based on personal experience both with the Translator Pro, and now, Powerlogger Pro. The 57.x in 1st and 2nd gear yield someting in the mid 19# boost range, and the 43.x yields between 17-18# of boost. The best advice I can offer is to start out with numbers a bit smaller than I run, and sneak up on a good number from there.

I've had to pull the 1/2 boost back closer to 19 since I replaced the rear tires with a pair that are stock size. They just couldn't handle the 21 that I was running, and in reality, still really can't handle the 19 that I'm running now. But being a boost junky, I just can't pull it back any more.
 
When I am reviewing a log file on my laptop, looking at the Graph tab, when I cycle through the bottom graph variables using F12 I can select AFR Correction to view. On my desktop, same log file, same version of PLC (2.1.2), AFR correction is not an option that ever comes up. Any ideas? I'd like to look at that on the graph page.

Also, sometimes when I start the car, hook up the laptop, and look at the Tune page I get a whole bunch of zeroes. The injector size for example will be 0. Car is running fine, so I suspect this is just a software/display glitch rather than a real problem. But still... any ideas there?

Thanks

John
 
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