Series II L67 Grand National??!!??

[xXch0dyXx]

Big congrats Cody.

That's some serious MPH for a TE60 with only 18psi. Given the heads and cam I'm sure flow tons more than a similarly prepped LC2. Definitely keep us posted on your progress and congrats again. Gotta love the strength that those 6 cross bolt mains give.

And yes, +11ty billion on the please make a swap kit for our cars Trannyman95. I see very good things with this conversion. Especially once the blocks and useable parts start to really dry up.


This reminds me of my fictional short story I wrote years ago, about "The Buick Boys" and their 3800 Series 2 turbocharged Pro Stock Firebird.

Awesome. We gotta have more pics.


Patrick

i think we should get caspers to make a wiring harness for the swap to make it easier on anybody that wants to try it out. I know doave had many hours fabbing up the wiring, because i saw the books and wires all over the floor Maybe we can talk him into fabbing another one to send to caspers so they would start making them... like i believe they did with the 87 harness (or some company has)

and Pat, if you wanna swing up to fort wayne sometime for a ride feel free, you will be AMAZED at how much better this thing rides than any 109 i have been in!! Might have to hit you up in the off season to talk about getting a diff turbo i wanna put down some more impressive #s on the 60 first tho

 

[Turbo V6 Camaro]

No amount of crank balancing is going to cancel out the uneven running of a 90 deg V6. Don't you think GM would have just done a better balance job on the engine if they could have instead of spending all of the money to design a block to accomidate a balance shaft???

Secondly, I've never seen any dyno tests that show you gain a lot of power by removing the balance shaft. I imagine you might gain some accelleration speed of the engine, but I doubt the amount of gains you get by removing it will amount to anything significant.



I care. It's the 21st century and I want to have my cake and eat it too. If I wanted a 70's race car with a carburator, I would build one. But that's not what I, nor most of my customers want. We want smooth running engines, cold A/C, 30+ MPG fuel econ, and 400+ HP engines. And with today's technology that is possible.

i have road in 4 stock car that have had it out and you can not tell at all...... there have been a few reports of a little vibration at 1500 rpm and by little i mean hardly able to tell....

i garentee you can not tell one car from the other

also some of the FWD guys have ran .05 to .1 faster buying taking out the shaft.......

 

[Darth Fiero]

i have road in 4 stock car that have had it out and you can not tell at all...... there have been a few reports of a little vibration at 1500 rpm and by little i mean hardly able to tell....

i garentee you can not tell one car from the other

Bet I and some of my customers could tell the difference. Trust me, we are that picky. But hey if you want to take it out, be my guest. Some of us just elect to leave it in there.

also some of the FWD guys have ran .05 to .1 faster buying taking out the shaft.......

Yea, and how many times have you gone to the track and some days you have run .1 sec faster and others you have run slower just because of weather changes? .05 or .1 sec is not enough of a gain to be significant in my book. That could be the difference of having the gas tank filled or only 1/2 full when making a pass. Now if removing the balance shaft would net say a .3 sec decrease or more in 1/4 times, then it would be something to consider doing. But for .05 or .1 sec; I'm thinking no.

Different strokes for different folks. Those who elect to remove it usually don't care how smooth their car runs just as long as it is fast. Others (like myself) want it running as smooth as possible because we enjoy driving our cars on road trips. Now if I was building a purpose built drag car that would get trailered to the track, then it might be a different story.

It's all about personal preference.

 

[CTX-SLPR]

Depending on how you balance the crank you can change the plane of the imbalance vibration. Clever balancing and motor mounts will shift it to a plane that can be absorbed but the balance shaft will cancel it out and eliminate the need for the need for the balance "clocking"

I agree on the Casper's harness, I'd also like to see him make one for putting the L67 ECM and harness on it if my venture is successful. I'm glad my (soon to be) wife is an electronics engineer and good at souldering.

 

[bsdlinux]

I like this idea. I mean really, a better block, better heads and roller valve train ..sweet. I'm interested in doing this to my GN. Hell I'll take the 1000 dollars for the roller valve train setup I've set aside and get started. Sounds like a great platform all the while keeping the 6 :biggrin:

 

[murphinator]

I have gathered some of the items asked for above :
first FWD 3800 into the 8's:

http://www.INTENSE-Racing.com/movies/Bob_Cook_894.wmv

rwd into the 8's:

http://www.intense-racing.com/movies/INTENSE_Fbody.wmv


Dave (trannyman) has also got an 87 ish cutlass with an L67 supercharged in it that he did

here is a link to it:

Customer Cars

I am a new member to the site , but have always loved GN's and spent some time lurking here.

I have gotten into modding the FWD Regal GS's until the day I may own a GN as they are cheap ,plentiful and are cheap & easy to mod.


every year you must encounter more difficulty sourcing engines to mod as the original stuff continues to dry up - there were only so many turbo buicks built and a lot get run really hard:biggrin:



for those interested Thrasher did a teardown with pictures and description of all that goes into a series 2 , here is that link :

L67 Engine Teardown - Thrasher Engineered Performance 3800 & 3800SC Pontiac Grand Prix GTP & Buick Regal GS

 

[Toady]

Any updates? Some of us are living vicariously through this project!!!

 

[xXch0dyXx]

nothing special yet, havent been back to the track. The actuator wont put out more than 17psi currently, so we are going to put a EBC on it and see if that will resolve the boost. If not im going to order the bracket from precision and a high boost actuator.

Probably going to order the strange axles and cclip elim, along with TA rear cover, then head to a meet in Branson in 2 weekends.... its a 9 hour drive for the car, and i dont have a trailer so i prob wont push the car too hard, we will see

 

[ijames]

Do you have the wastegate plumbed "tuner style", just a hose from compressor housing the actuator? If so, 17 psi may be all you can get - the stock spring gives about 12 psi and you can only shorten the rod so much. If you have a restrictor and bleeder valve (like the stock lc2 setup with wastegate solenoid valve) you can go into the low 20's with good control. The high boost actuator gives a base of about 17 psi and makes mid-hi 20's stable with a bleeder setup. Or you can go really-old-school and add an external spring from wastegate flap valve to actuator body (either drill a little hole in the actuator bracket or use one of the mouting bolts to anchor the spring) . Something like a section of screen door return spring, cut to give maybe half again the force of the stock 12 lb spring as a starting point.

 

[murphinator]

as much as I want to see the results driving a car 9 hours to race it and expecting it to make it back ?? I dont think I would do it.

you must know someone with a trailer , or rent one from u haul , heck where the car is registerred even a car dolly would do it-they are pretty cheap to rent

 

[xXch0dyXx]

i already have an adjustable actuator, not a stock one:wink:

i got the car to drive it whenever and where ever i wanted to, so it should be fine for the drive, racing, and return home. I am undecided if i am actually going to try to run better times while im there, or just make a couple shakedown runs. Either way it will be fun ****z so im not too worried about it. If anything eventful happens, im sure me or trannyman will post up:biggrin:

 

[kenny]

I would never do that, but pretty cool regardless.

 

[murphinator]

well I still think your silly if you dont have a plan B , but a good kind of silly I guess

go dial it in for a few passes then make at least 1 full on pass so we can see how deep in the 10's that beast is

at that point the track will be booting your arse anyways

 

[Toady]

Cool...

I also hope you hit the 10s at least once.

Can you run something like a BstC on your setup? (In manual mode)

 

[xXch0dyXx]

May be able to borrow a trailer/truck combo for my trip, if it pans out i may try to actually prep the car for the track... like open cutout, tire pressure, air in the air bags... but they only have 91oct in branson from what i hear

 

[batmansbuick]

This is awesome. Great work by everyone involved. I'll be watching as it progresses.

 

[murphinator]

but they only have 91oct in branson from what i hear

somewhere during the 9 hours on the road you WILL be passing a sunoco station that has 100 octane street legal 100 octane at the pump

here is a link to search for a station along the way:

Overview - Sunoco 260 GT100 Locations

 

[mygm]

did you get the speedo in the car to work since the 4l60e is electrical and the 87 cluster is mechanical, what about the cruise control, i guess no plans in adding the A/C.

 

[WHEEZER]

Trannyman and cody this is great, kudo's to you guys for the work involved and the results! I was impressed as soon as I watched the vid and heard the turbo whistle with just a short throttle blip. Get some 100 unleaded cam2, get some good slicks, tune up to 22-24 psi and and keep us posted...sweet!

 

[xXch0dyXx]

did you get the speedo in the car to work since the 4l60e is electrical and the 87 cluster is mechanical, what about the cruise control, i guess no plans in adding the A/C.

there is a conversion cable that a company sells. Cruise control is about to go on b4 the trip. Ac should be added next year or so