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Serious KR just started-help me find reason?

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joed

Active Member
Joined
Mar 6, 2002
Messages
342
The only thing that's different is my new PTS extreme 9/11 converter I just had installed. Everything else is the same as when I was running 21-23 psi all the time with ZERO kr. now it's good to 10-12 psi and one light comes on the knock gage. I hold there and make sure alky is flowing but as I creep up the boost, the KR increases. hoses all connected, fuel pressure seems good moving with boost, nothing stuck in IC. Have PL files. Alky flowing, could the pump have gotten "weak" where it's flowing but not as much all the sudden? Where do I look? Have track day on 9/15 gotta find and fix by then:confused:
 
yes it could. Check your pump pressure. I just "wired" the pump directly on my older SMC kit. The conections tend to corrode unless you have a newer or updated system.
 
Here are a few suggestions;

1. Tell us; What alky kit, how old, how many miles?
2. The KR is unlikely Alky related if you have not changed any other settings.
3. Did you search this forum for Razor's advice on KR?
4. There is a complete list of items to inspect/verify if you have KR. Did you find that one?
5. You may want to request a mod move this to the general section where you will get much more feedback. :cool:
 
Thanks to all for quick response. I'l try to answer all without quoting each separately.
1. I watched 2 full-time lots-of-eperience trans installers tighten them, but I could take it back and ask them to check 'em. I had 2 tc bolts let loose on me years ago when the car had only about 19 k miles (36k now). Thought I threw a rod!
2.It's an old (5 years) SMC controller, with an even older Jay Carter Alky Kit pump (the first ever produced I think ;) Been running on and off since I bought it...let's see I picked it up at the NATS that time they were held in Columbus...96? Combined about 20k miles on 2 cars since. Been planning to upgrade to Razors kit over this winter, but don't want to do that prior to making sure so I don't still have the issue after the new kit is in. Did you mean you "hot wire" the pump with a relay? Otherwise how do you control turn on and pump speed? What pressure am I looking for? Do I check with it flowing or dead head the line?
3.Pump speed is maxed, initial has been fine at 10-12 psi for years. Also since I've tried "holding" the boost at 12 while the alky gets flowing during the testing I was doing, then creeping it up, and KR increases, seems to indicate an alky or fuel volume issue has crept in??
4.Since it seems odd that the converter would cause KR, it sounds like real KR to me and my alky pump is ancient, I started thinking perhaps incorrectly in that groove. I've read lots of Razor's instrux over the years (printed most!). I'll search for what you mention and pour over it. Other stuff in sig. Something must have broke, plugged, failed, opened, fell off or weakened..don't you think? Is it possible for the converter to cause KR under heavy load?

If this needs to be moved so be it. I like the feedback so far!
Thanks again. I'm on it. I can't wait to get to the track with new converter.
Joe
 
Found Razor's "Chasing knock problems" again. Awesome tips. Chewing on it. Going to swap MAF first, get rid of heated O2 sensor back to stock unit. Disconnect alky, (check pressure) and tune back to 16 psi pump gas and go from there. Wideband is reading 12-13+ at part throttle TPS = 2.5-3.5 max, 15-20 psi. Seems too lean. Is part throttle reading like this of value?
Thanks.:biggrin:
 
I removed the connections on the SMC alky tank and wired directly to the pump. My connections were corroded and my pump pressure was down to 35psi(now at 60+ which is still low ). Have someone push the "test" button while you watch the gauge. The test button runs the pump at max. pressure. Just have the car running and the rpms up. Sounds like you may be having pump problems IMO.
 
I removed the connections on the SMC alky tank and wired directly to the pump. My connections were corroded and my pump pressure was down to 35psi(now at 60+ which is still low ). Have someone push the "test" button while you watch the gauge. The test button runs the pump at max. pressure. Just have the car running and the rpms up. Sounds like you may be having pump problems IMO.
Great, thanks. Yup I agree. I think the pump needs replacement either way, but still need to know if that's the cause or if there is something else at play. I don't have the tank, just SMC controller wired to my old, bare JC pump, laying under my charcoal canister and my gage is really hard to see, so I'll move things around a bit and get a look.
 
Bring the boost down to 14-16 PSI and figure out the car. Then worry about going higher.

Make a list.. and go through it.. its just a puzzle that needs solving ;)
 
OK this occurred to me while I wasn't sleeping last night at 2:30 am. I bouggt methanol from a new place, kind of hard to find here in Buffalo, NY and my really good source stopped selling it. This is a little speed shop (rice tuners) and he said it had been laying around for a while, but I saw the drum and it was sealed, but maybe it either got deliberately watered down by employees (like yer parents liquor when you were a kid;) or absorbe H2O somehow...any way to test it? I have about 10-15 gallons. I guess once I prove out the car at 15 psi, I'll have to buy some denatured in a can and put that in...I'd rather have meth since that's what I've been using with outstanding results for years now.
 
Well preliminary results lead to dead alky pump. Lines and M15 nozzle look good. I had a cheapo in line press gage that read "0" while spraying, so I had to take system apart, plumb in my FP gage (deadhead) crank pump speed to 10 and hit the test button. 26 psi give or take 2-4 psi. Man I'm glad I didn't pop a gasket or blow it up! All that's left is to return it to 15 psi boost to confirm everything. Then I'll be sure all is working well and there are no other issues while getting my new alky installed! (Razor.HELP!! I'll be callling)
Can't seem to get that dang RJC boost controller to boost down. Actuator rod is loose and the controller is loosened to almost falling apart and still got maybe 20 psi. My stock parts are buried in storage someplace, should just be able to pull the controller and put the grey plastic "Y" back in for now, right?
 
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