Similar or better replacement for a TE45A?

VenomGT

That Youtube Guy
So, I am starting to step up the performance of my car, I've addressed and worked out all the issues that came with the car when I purchased it, I have revised and gone thru everything in the car and I finally feel comfortable spending money on more expensive performance parts.
Now, I am happy with the way the car performs and spools as it is but the turbo ate something (I think it was one of the screens from the stock maf) and it bent the tips of the fins. Now I have researched rebuilds and so far it looks like a little more money and I can get a new turbo so I would like to go that route just for peace of mind. The turbo diesel shop I took it to told me that it should be fine for a while but to start shopping for a new turbo as the bearings may fail prematurely.
Engine is a reman 109 with all the proper parts and 980 springs. 38k miles.
I daily the car, it is my street warrior...lol
Any input it appreciated although I did come to the forum because I dislike it when posts turn into a crapshoot like on the FB page.

Current Mods:
  • FMIC CAS V2
  • 70mm TB and Doghouse
  • 80# injectors w/ hotwire
  • 255 Racetronix pump and hotwire (soon to be a double pumper 680 w/ hotwire) -8 feed/-6 return
  • Accufab FPR (currently set at 53 static)
  • TR6 Ignition, with the singe coil setup, magnecor wires, and 2-step.
  • MAFT w/ 3.5 LS MAF (MA101) filter infront of the driver side tire 3.5" pipes through.
  • TT 5.7 (considering SD as I already have a WBO2)
  • Snow Performance Stage 2 dual nozzle w/ progressive controller (starts at 7psi, full at 15/secondary at 18 PSI)
  • Hedman heeders "hustler" exhaust manifolds, THDP 3" with a test pipe and 4" RJC single shot.
  • Monster Transmission 2800 stall converter. Stock rear end.
  • Redundant grounds EVERYWHERE.
  • Powerlogger (still need to connect FP and Boost senders from the gauges to it)
  • Large aluminum radiator I think it may be an RJC piece but I don't know, couldn't find a receipt for it when I got the papers with the car. If it matters.
  • Don't shoot me but I will also be adding a BOV.
 
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45a is a great turbo, not much of a better upgrade for your combo, for a little quicker spool with similar power would be a 6266bb but imo not worth the upgrade $$, I might as well say what everyone else is gonna say, dump that converter in the nearest river and call Husek!.;)
 
Te60-1 would very well with what you have and will not break the bank and will leave you some room to grow if you port and polish the heads and add a cam down the road. When mine needed to be serviced I went with a Garrett ball bearing center section and a ptrim wheel. Either way it had excellent street manners and the spool was instantaneous. It gave me 10 trouble free years of service in its original journal bearing configuration.
 
I would replace the converter with a better unit and look at a 6466. I like my tnetics 6465 billet.
 
Your best option is send the 45A to Limit Engineering or Bison to repair it.

If it does not have a Garrett exhaust housing, have one installed and you will have a killer street car with more power and response than a 62BB, as I have done this with a 45A about 2 dozen or more builds like your's which should put your car into the 9's.
 
It appears this car has stock heads and a 5.7 chip. Why would putting a turbo that supports 72-75lbs/min even be a consideration? I'm thinking something with a t31 turbine and use a stock converter since it's a daily driven street warrior. It will spool 800-1000rpm sooner and be much more fun to drive and probably knock half a second off the quarter mile time.


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Thank you all for the replies. So general consensus seems to be to go with a higher stall converter, what RPM range should I consider, I'm probably going to buy it from the forums "Parts for Sale". As for the turbo, I'll keep the TE45A and have it rebuilt or wait for Bison to have another one for sale (I missed out on one a few months ago). Is there anything else I should consider?
 
Thank you all for the replies. So general consensus seems to be to go with a higher stall converter, what RPM range should I consider, I'm probably going to buy it from the forums "Parts for Sale". As for the turbo, I'll keep the TE45A and have it rebuilt or wait for Bison to have another one for sale (I missed out on one a few months ago). Is there anything else I should consider?
i've got one for $849 if you want it but referring to my prior post it's the wrong Turbo for the car



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Based on counless hours of internet reading :rolleyes::

Stock cam is done around 4800 rpm.
So you want to stay around the 22-2400 0/0 stall and flash full power to 43-4400 rpm. Match the turbo for that setup as Bison stated. For a street bruiser, I prefer low rpm torque with these low rpm engines.

My buddy has a TE44 and *had* a 3200 nlu rated converter. The car ran 88 mph in the 1/8 at 5300 rpm in 3rd at 26psi boost. Never coupled. His quickest times were with the stock converter.
 
Are the heads stock? If so then depending on your goals, a smaller turbo would be better or porting the heads and a turbo for more flow.
 
Based on counless hours of internet reading :rolleyes::

Stock cam is done around 4800 rpm........................

That statement really puzzles me?

How can a stock, un-opened engine in a GN with some good mods and race gas get into the 10's if the stock cam is "done around 4800 rpm"? :confused:
 
Yea I missed that, if stock heads you need a completely different turbo, 44/49.. still loose the converter tho.
 
That statement really puzzles me?

How can a stock, un-opened engine in a GN with some good mods and race gas get into the 10's if the stock cam is "done around 4800 rpm"? :confused:
I can tell you mine is done around 5200 and thats with new springs 105 lbs on the seat. Car feels great around 4800 but doesnt spend any time there. My flash stall is around 5200. I picked up a few 10ths and a few MPH by shifting into OD. IMO Ideally I would have flash stall around 4800 and be able to run in 3rd on my unopened longblock with manifold pressure in excess of 35psi on 93 and alky

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What if the AR of the the turbo was changed, would the car then pull better top end?
Bison would know better than me. I would guess no not in my case with unopened longblock. Although I was not logging drive pressure (yet) the turbo was still picking up power with increased boost. My uneducated guess would tell me I wasnt anywhere near out of housing or turbine (.63 precision housing 66 exhaust wheel)

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i've got one for $849 if you want it but referring to my prior post it's the wrong Turbo for the car
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I guess since I haven't ridden in a car with a better matched turbo, I feel like the turbo behaves well enough. I'll be contacting you about the turbo, I am going to send you mine because the cover is polished and I would like it on the new one. I have to get a hold of a loaner because the car is my daily.

Based on counless hours of internet reading :rolleyes::

Stock cam is done around 4800 rpm.
So you want to stay around the 22-2400 0/0 stall and flash full power to 43-4400 rpm. Match the turbo for that setup as Bison stated. For a street bruiser, I prefer low rpm torque with these low rpm engines.

My buddy has a TE44 and *had* a 3200 nlu rated converter. The car ran 88 mph in the 1/8 at 5300 rpm in 3rd at 26psi boost. Never coupled. His quickest times were with the stock converter.

I have probably done just as many countless hours, but I always like to triple check, particularly when a decent amount of money is at risk and besides with all the knowledge and know-how within this site, it doesn't hurt to ask. My current plan with the car is to get it as fast as possible without sacrificing drivability (I understand there will be some compromise or loss of) and funny enough I was under the impression that I needed more stall for my particular turbo. I began looking at CK and TCI-Streetfighter but I am trying to sort out why most say 81-84 only, maybe the pilot is different?, some reading is due on how to match my particular setup, for now its just that, a bunch of research. This thread definitely facilitates the learning lol

Are the heads stock? If so then depending on your goals, a smaller turbo would be better or porting the heads and a turbo for more flow.

My goal with the car is "fast". If I were to try to describe my current plan better I would say that I am knocking out the items to support a built engine, at the pace I am going, I'll probably be having an engine built so I would like to spend right and spend once. I don't mind spending extra cash to make it better, for example the ing, module went out, average price was $300 for "lightly" used coil and module so I just coughed up $200 more and bought the TR6 which is by far the best investment I've made because of the built in 2 step and the diagnostic which warned me of a faulty sensor. (something about this car has be throwing money at it).
 
Fast is really not an answer. To my mother in law, a walker is fast. Have you or the previous owner run it to see what it does? Do you have experience driving or riding in cars that run a certain time that you can compare yours? Making a tangible goal will help you and others you ask for help to make choices for a better combo.
 
If I was in your shoes, I'd just buy a new small turbo, like a 44/49 and sell the 45a. Having it rebuilt and then flipping it you'll lose a few more bucks, BTDT. Then keep everything as it is, short of wiring up the PL to the FP sensor. Other than that, I see an easy 10, 20, 30 grand going out the window if you want to have a "built" combo that works well on the street and strip.
 
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