stalls at high boost

mikeA

Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2006
Hi im new to turbo cars but not this site. I am buying my first t-type regal for a great deal. The car needs work and i wanted to know if anyone here can help. Here it goes.... I drove the car on the high way yesterday and it would fall on its face unless i feathered the gas and kept the boost below 15 pounds. Once i got the car above 15 pounds it would loose ignition. I am tryin to guess at the prob but i am asking the pro's. (YOU) thank you in advance. :)
 
First, if nothing has been done to the car then you should not run much more than 14 pounds on good 93 gas. If you mean it shuts off electrically, then you should be looking at the pos battery cable coming in contact with the header under torque. If you mean falling on its face over 15 pounds, then try giving the MAF a rap with a screwdriver while it is idling. If it stumbles, then, the MAF is on its way out. You really need at least a scanmaster to get some readings.
 
It could be suffering ignition module failure. That's one of the symptoms, cutting out badly once up into boost. Varies as to how much boost it takes to cause the issue.
 
boost issue

K sorry as far as i know the car is mostly stock... The guy that i am buying it from said the turbo is bigger but he knows nothing about cars let alone turbo cars.... When i am on the high way i watch the factory gage go to the red and when it does that thats when it dies(falls on its face) looses power what ever you want to say. There is an additional turbo gage in the center council. that gage goes all the way up to 23. if that helps. Thank you very much for all your help.
 
maf

Tapped the maf no change. idles fine. It is also the stock maf. It says ac in a circle on the top of it. The car revs fine and power brakes great. The only time you run into a prob is on the road. It spits and sputters at full throtle. When you give it half throttle it runs great. Sorry for bein dumb about this. My moto use to be just stuff a big block in it. lol
 
I say beat him up over the price due to the way the car is running and fix the trouble. What kind of shape is the rest of the car in and how much does he want? if its a neglected rust bomb with a shot interior then that stumble may be the least of your worries.
 
K sorry as far as i know the car is mostly stock... The guy that i am buying it from said the turbo is bigger but he knows nothing about cars let alone turbo cars.... When i am on the high way i watch the factory gage go to the red and when it does that thats when it dies(falls on its face) looses power what ever you want to say. There is an additional turbo gage in the center council. that gage goes all the way up to 23. if that helps. Thank you very much for all your help.

23lbs is WAY too much boost without alky. Do you have alky injection? IMO, it's also way too much boost without a scanmaster and good knowledge of what it takes to keep these engines together. Get your boost down to 15 or less and then spring clean the thing, then try WOT again. The factory boost control hoses may be cracked or it may have an adjustable rod too tight but get the psi down one way or another and then start the hard testdrives. 23lbs sounds about right though for a standard actuator with no boost control acting on it.
 
heres what i know

The car has no mods what so ever...... the cat is cut off.... :)

I have no idea how to get the boost down????????

The car is a t-top t-type 86 intercooled. 8.5 rear with alum drums, manual windows, very clean inside with a floor shift, no rust under neath at all its from IN. The doors need stripped and repainted but that is it. The guy is bein very honest with me he is my nieghbor. The car ran awsome before he said it just started doin this prob one day. The car has sat in the garage for 10 years and brought out to do burn outs and get whooped on. It does not burn oil although it does leak oil the oil is very clean......

Where are the tubes you are talking about for the turbo. im sure somethin is prob leakin. it does have an xhaust leak. Thanks again for all your help. Im payin 3000 for the car. he says he is takin the money and buyin a real GN. I am gonna help him look for it on here.


Thanks again for all your help. sorry for the book.
 
If it is at 23 lbs and no alchy it is gonna blow!!! To turn the boost down you must lengthen the adjustable rod under the turbo that goes to the actuator. Each turn is a pound of boost, so you want to lengthen the rod about 9 turns to go from 23 to 14 pounds of boost. Just remember: shorten the rod, shorten the life of the motor (more boost). Do not go by the boost gauge on the dash. They are not accurate. Use a separate boost gauge.
 
The car has no mods what so ever...... the cat is cut off.... :)

I have no idea how to get the boost down????????

The car is a t-top t-type 86 intercooled. 8.5 rear with alum drums, manual windows, very clean inside with a floor shift, no rust under neath at all its from IN. The doors need stripped and repainted but that is it. The guy is bein very honest with me he is my nieghbor. The car ran awsome before he said it just started doin this prob one day. The car has sat in the garage for 10 years and brought out to do burn outs and get whooped on. It does not burn oil although it does leak oil the oil is very clean......

Where are the tubes you are talking about for the turbo. im sure somethin is prob leakin. it does have an xhaust leak. Thanks again for all your help. Im payin 3000 for the car. he says he is takin the money and buyin a real GN. I am gonna help him look for it on here.


Thanks again for all your help. sorry for the book.

You are looking for three hoses in the shape of a "y". They connect turbo to solenoid on pass side valve cover to actuator under turbo that opens under boost to slow the turbo down. When these hoses crack, no more boost control. This is the stock setup anyway, let us know if your setup is different.
 
stock

The 'Y' is there and the lines look good. on the piece on the valve cover though it looked like where the vacume line went in (actuator) there was another one next to it and it looked broke off. I could not find one layin there any where. Are there 2 vacume lines that connect to the actuator???? I will prob adjust the piece your talkin about looks easy enough. :) thank you for your help. I will be putting it on a scanner soon.
 
The 'Y' is there and the lines look good. on the piece on the valve cover though it looked like where the vacume line went in (actuator) there was another one next to it and it looked broke off. I could not find one layin there any where. Are there 2 vacume lines that connect to the actuator???? I will prob adjust the piece your talkin about looks easy enough. :) thank you for your help. I will be putting it on a scanner soon.

No, there's a small foam filter that goes on the other end of the solenoid that I've never seen stay on any TR. Kirban sells them if you need it to look stock but it's fine as you describe. Check those three y hoses well though. The smallest crack will eliminate your ability to control boost, which sounds like your issue. I almost blew up my car from the same thing. I credit my good, non factory boost gauge as sparing me.
 
Adjust your actuator rob longer so that it barely keeps the flap it's attched to shut. You don't want it too loose or it'll kill spool but just tight enough to keep it shut then retest. If this doesn't fix it, you'll need to check the boost setting in the chip or get a chip with.a low boost setting.
 
I would not go WOT with the car again untill you turn the boost down and get a scanmaster.
Asking for trouble with some kind of knock monitoring device.
 
It.was the.maf... The turbo has a lot of.endplay also.. The rod.to adjust the waste gate was super tight... So after the turbo is rebuilt and I get a.translater and ls1 maf hopefully the car will ne as good as new...... I didn't buy the.car 3 years ago.cause had to pay for a divorce...
 
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