Stock main/rod bolts
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Squid4life
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You can reuse them. In fact, if you replace either, the rods/mains need to be machined because they can affect the shape of the bore.
Red Regal T
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yup!
To clarify then, if I do reuse the bolts, then no machining is required. Lastly, it's 40 ft/lbs on the rod bolts and 100 ft/lbs on the main bolts right?
Squid4life
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Assuming you don't find anything wrong with it.
I'm hoping not to find anything wrong with it when I go in....to answer the question here though, it started as a small snowball. I need new valve spring with 65k on the engine now, and my Buick guy said it'd be a lot easier to do the valvesprings with the motor out of the car. I'm doing a radiator upgrade too, so most of the stuff in the way is coming out anyway, and he offered me a good deal on the labor so I said ok. While engine is out, I figured why not throw a new cam and lifters in too since valvesprings are being done. I have a faint tick too but I think that is a crank sensor contacting the ring, been through that when I got the car and it sounds same now, but a good reason to take a close look inside. This last season I had a couple of bad misfires: one due to bad MAF and other due to voltage drop on a hot day with a bad alternator, so again, while engine is out, let's take a look inside with the pan off. Finally, to answer, since we are in that far, I figured a new set of bearings barring anything else being wrong, would be good preventative maintenance to get me a few more years out of my rotating assembly until I can save to do a full billet cap build with new rotating assembly and hopefully something bigger than my TE44. I'm hoping with new bearings, and sticking with the 44, that the cam will get me back the mph I'm loosing with the new converter, but still be a basic stock build that stays reliable.
Think I should just leave it alone or are bearings a good idea? My builder said he could go either but said he'd probably do it to his motor if used the way I use them. I am prepared to have a build done on the block now if need be, but I'd REALLY rather not.
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Let's see, it takes about 2 hours to change valve springs in the car, removing the engine will take 1/2 a day more or less, and at least one day to install it and get running again.
All this because you, or someone, thinks you need new valve springs?
I hope the mechanic is not your friend, as none of what you have posted sounds logical for a 65K mile engine?
Let's see, it takes about 2 hours to change valve springs in the car, removing the engine will take 1/2 a day more or less, and at least one day to install it and get running again.
All this because you, or someone, thinks you need new valve springs?
I hope the mechanic is not your friend, as none of what you have posted sounds logical for a 65K mile engine?
He can take one out and put it back in 1/2 day. I'm the one that started with the valvesprings as everything I've ever read here states stock spring are junk after 60k some even sooner. I had a few shavings on my oil plug the last change and that's why I want to take a look. I've always heard new bearings are a good idea if you are in there anyway. Maybe I'm wrong, but that's why I'm here, to learn. Are you stating that I should or should not just leave the bottom end alone?
I'm getting an oil analysis done and I'll drop the oil pan and do as you say. I agree with the don't fix what aint broke; I just thought bearings were preventative maintenance.
Some may not agree with this, but it's hard to beat what the general gave us unless you are talking high dollar builds.
High dollar builds would still be using the vandervell bearings if they were still available. Id leave it alone. If the bearings are hit I'd need an explanation. Replacing them won't fix it. Valve springs take me an hour and a half with the engine in the car.
usetaboost
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If it isn't broke-beat the hell out of it
I had a 93 trans am that had nearly 200k on it. Had great oil pressure and never skipped a beat. I was never scared to put it to the floor or extended burnouts and on-ramp slingshots. Completely stock and original. That's my experience on not fixing what's not broken. It's embarrasing to say but I kind of miss that car some days:redface:
I had a 93 trans am that had nearly 200k on it. Had great oil pressure and never skipped a beat. I was never scared to put it to the floor or extended burnouts and on-ramp slingshots. Completely stock and original. That's my experience on not fixing what's not broken. It's embarrasing to say but I kind of miss that car some days:redface:
hensleyt
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@77000
mine at 77000 was beautiful inside but I couldn't take the rear main seal leak any more .If engine is out pull the pan and do the rear main seal,that can be done without pulling the crank
mine at 77000 was beautiful inside but I couldn't take the rear main seal leak any more .If engine is out pull the pan and do the rear main seal,that can be done without pulling the crank
Rear main has already been done. Been sealing well for 20k at least now. I appreciate all the input. I'm still pulling the motor to clean all the grease off if nothing else and detail the engine bay. I'm doing radiator too so everything in the way is coming out. I'll just toss it back in though short of a few new gaskets.
Rear main has already been done. Been sealing well for 20k at least now. I appreciate all the input. I'm still pulling the motor to clean all the grease off if nothing else and detail the engine bay. I'm doing radiator too so everything in the way is coming out. I'll just toss it back in though short of a few new gaskets.
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