Streetable 9'S low 10'S how reliable is it??

[turbosam6]

I totally agree with what everyone is saying. However, one thing you guys are overlooking is that most of cars don't run our peak numbers in street trim. What I'm saying is, for example, my car ran 11.61 at 120. And I drive it on the street often. But, when on the street, I'm running less octane, less boost, and therefor less power. I don't run 116 and 25 psi on the street. So when you say "10 second street car", its kinda different than say, a mustang or whatever, because a lot of those cars do run at their peak power all the time. Thats the great thing about TR's: Yeah, my car runs elevens, and hopefully tens now. But, when detuned for the street, it might run low twelves. More streetable, and still with the capability of turning it up. And most of us wouldn't want to run race gas all the time, and high boost, because like what was said before, its useless on the street. A 12 second car in street trim is very fast.

 

[turbosam6]

I don't quite understand that. Your motor can't be that high of compression, I think most guys run 9:1 or under. Why couldn't you run that on pump gas? I realize the compression changes with boost, but just turn down the boost, and run the crappy pump gas. And street racing is a whole different matter. Hell yes my car is in race trim when I street race. Thats not street driving, though. I would consider my engine "built", as are many others on pump gas. I guess I just don't understand why a built engine requires race fuel at all times? Not trying to argue, just wanna learn from you.

 

[WICKEDGN]

Thanx sam that's my point i want a low 10's car but while im in the street it's going to be just for normal drivinglike you said i might run low tens on the track but when in street i run 12's right so that's what im trying to build a fast weekend warrior but yet be able to drive it on the street if needed. but my original question was??

some guys that r running mid to low tens on a stock block say if they were to drive their cars as a daily driver they would have to be looking into doing some engine work every year. is that true on a well built stock block??that's my conserne if im going to waste my money on something that's really not reliable or should i just go for something stronger like a stage motor or TA block. now im not trying to bring down stock block besides i own one and love it, but theres always people that want to go faster!!and that's me. but if im going to spend a good amount of money should i go with a strongerenginr that has more capabilities or stick with a stock block thanx guys your opinios have all been great im just trying to learn more and wich way would be best for me.

 

[turbov6joe]

A girdled 109 block with all the good internal/external parts will support 600 HP and be "streetable". This past summer I sold a 10 second GN to a guy who drove it from central Kansas to Southern Florida with no problems what-so-ever! IMO, if your hell bent on building a bad ass block, don't waste your time or $$$ on a 109 block, jump right into the stage II or TA Performance block and do it right the first time. I think your heading in the right direction with the "over building it" theory, and YES, I think it will survive plenty of street duty if you keep the boost and timing down for pump gas. There is NO reason why any low 10 second Stage II motor can't run on pump fuel provided it's "turned down" like it should. A Stage II motor at 16 psi is the same as a 109 block at 16 psi...why would you need to run C16 in either??? If all you need it to do is get you from point A to point B in the event you DD takes a ****, then your fine. Build that 700HP motor you want, drive the guts out of it at the track, turn it down, and drive it 20k miles a year on the street...HAVE FUN!

 

[ttypewe4jim]

but what im saying is that i was always told that once u get in the 10s it coast alot of this $$$$$$$$$$$$$ and then also ur stressing the F**cking thing to death if its a stock chassis inop i think that a street car is a car that u DRIVE TO THE TRACK and also to and from work everyday sure its not as fast on the street as u are at the track with slicks or even drag radials but ur still driving it alot. then inop u can call it a street car

 

[Fuelie600]

Not to discount what has already been said in this post, but I would like to add my personal ( been there, done that ). My GN has been in the 600+ hp range for the past 2 seasons. I run consistent 10.60's on fairly soft leaves {6-8 lbs boost}. My MPH thru the traps is 128-129.5 w/ non LU conv. The car is street driven plenty in full race trim ie. VP c16 and just a switch from slicks to DOT's. My block is just a little old 109 with steel caps, and was just diassembled for some mods and a girdle. My point is TUNING! There is no other way parts will live whether "stage" or "stock". I'm not implying that a 109 is as strong as a Stage 2 block, but I have logged over 100 runs with no ill effects. You need to spend your time and money wisely, listen to those who "really" have been there, and select your parts as a total package. Then get a good scan tool and keep on top of your game. Building a Stage2 is in my future, but they are waaaay over priced. I'm waiting on the TA block to come out, so the market will drop out on $2,500-3,000 Stage 2 blocks. Brian

 

[Fuelie600]

Did I forget to mention that my GN (618 rwh}weighs 3590 w/ me in it, has a complete factory interior and all acc. including AC. ( my buddies get a laugh when I let my car run after a pass to let the AC cool things down ). 8 bolt heads are what I consider a plus in the event I ever do detonate as the head will yeild and hopefully not blow the crank out the bottom. The real bummer is the cast crank as this is the limiting factor. Bottom line is when you want to make over 100 hp per cylinder from a v6, longevity goes out the window. Even a TA block won't keep the rod and 2-3 main bearings from being pounded at that HP level if you detonate. If you run fast, you'll need periodic maintnance ( tear downs ). Look at all the fast guys and the pro's.

 

[KEVINS]

Quote:
"Many reasons: loose torque converter, big turbo (lag), unable to hook street tires, loss of use of back seat (roll bar), loss of creature comforts (AC, Cruise control, comfortable seats, race style seat belts that are required, ETC.):

Everybody knows that a 10 sec car is not going to hook on the street to produce 10sec times so this should not be an argument/discussion. Who cares about turbo lag when xmas shopping or going to the friends house. If someone does care then don't build it with a low stall and big turbo. A TR CAN have the AC, comfortable seats along with all the creature comforts they started out with if the owner desires.

I see people are judging the drivability aspect on their personal driving habbits/desires and I think they are missing the question. I believe the question inquires more on the Mechanical Side of driving durabilty of a 10sec TR.

The only things that I can think of that can kill a Race car is high lift cams/valve springs and high stall converters. Niether of these are required parts to run 10s with a TR and for this reason a 10sec STREET TR can be accomplished with no ill affects on durability. Naturally it does depend on the individual persons expectations/definition of drivability, tho..

Just my .02's..
ks

 

[Fuelie600]

Gene, What times do your car run? Did not see it in your sig. Anyhow, you need to get a beer and relax, it's Christmas! I speak from hands on knowledge. I have spent many, many hours talking with Red and discussing these very issues. I've raced my motor hard. It's now at Jack Merkels being built for the upcoming season and Ive been to Rons shop and ordered my roller thru him. You should stop misrepresenting what I have posted, because if you read it more closely you would also understand what I said. I post very seldom here, and when I do it is to help guys out with what I do know to be true. It's a shame to have to get into tit for tat posts. Flame on, but you won't see any more responses from me. This is the very reason so many knowledgable people don't post here anymore ( Ron Joeseph included). Brian

 

[Buicksx2]

Originally posted by Fuelie600
This is the very reason so many knowledgable people don't post here anymore ( Ron Joeseph included). Brian

>>> Brian,

You are right, next time you see or talk to Ron tell em to jump back on here, others have left and come back. Good way to start 2003 with a fresh start.

Happy Holidays to all.