TE62 vs Turbonetics 70MM

[jasjamz]

What rpm do you shift at?
Is that a roller or flat tappet cam? Its on the large side for your goal. This will require higher shift points, better flowing heads, or more cubes. I know it sucks to heard your combo is all wrong. I've been there too. It really is confusing at times to see a car with much smaller parts go faster than you repeatedly.
Does that converter really read 3000rpm at 0-1 psi?
Comparing a PTC 9.5" to regular converters really isn't a good comparison. They stall low but ramp in faster than others that are "rated" at the same stall speed. I too like them looser on the bottom end to get the car off the line. I make due with top end slippage as long as its not really bad and it drops respectively on the shifts.

 

[Homie_Telefrag]

I just leave the car in O/D and dont mess with shifting it - as it sets now it shifts at about 5,500rpm. Its a flat tappet cam, but was told it should get me where I need to go with the ported and diamond cut heads. Ive never really had a chance to see where RPMs are at because by the time I get to 0-1PSI the car overtakes the brakes, starts pushing forward and then blows the tires off and then I usually end up with a high 12/low 13 run. So 9 times out of 10 I just leave arouns 1600-1800RPM, mash the gas and cross my fingers hopein for the best.... but not getting it.... >.>

 

[bison]

I had a precision .85 ex housing and 93 octane timing. It would had been fine with 2800 in my instance with a Garrett .63. There's more to it than a converter to get a quick spooling setup. If I had 116 octane I could have achieved even faster spoolup. On the trans brake to 20psi in about a second. On my fastest passes with the old 7.5:1 junker engine i shifted at 5400-5500 and it dropped to 5100. The engine spent about 10 seconds of the 10.61 pass between 5100 and 5500. Getting back to the original post there is no power at all running a t70 on a 375hp application. It will spool even slower

 

[Homie_Telefrag]

375hp? Really? I thought about useing a transbrake, but wouldnt that just blow the tires off horendously if I used something like that? I dont know too much about transbrakes other than they make things happen A LOT quicker... -Ben

 

[TType85]

100RPM stall make that much of a difference? 0.o

Are you sure yours stalls at 3000@0 psi? Mine was supposed to be looser but I can only get ~2600 or so at 0psi

 

[scojack_2001]

My car seems to like the TE-62 and the 32-3400 stall ProTorque. Stock motor with 130K on it now and it runs 11.30s. Gets great mileage and I can drive it anywhere.

Agreed with Nick. Something is wrong with the combination.

 

[GetOwnedVette]

Allright...if you guys think its possible... I'll get fresh E/T Streets and those brake parts goin on there and see what happends.... -Ben

Get some sticky 255-275's and that right there should help a ton. My car before a facelift had about the same setup...going from a crappy tire and wore out pads in the back to a new set of soft pads and some sticky tires shaved about a 1/2 second off my ET. Best $500 I ever spent.

 

[bison]

Over the years the 60-1 compressor has probably taken out more head gaskets, main caps and expired more LC2 engines than any other compressor. It was also the first 10 second simple bolt on turbo (TE62). Its also more than almost everyone ever needs with their mildly modified turbo regals. Hp potential per $ spent is unparalleled comparing to other turbos on mildly modified engines.

60-1 results:
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/10-61-127-85-with-60-1-compressor.347741/

 

[Nick Micale]

My car seems to like the TE-62 and the 32-3400 stall ProTorque. Stock motor with 130K on it now and it runs 11.30s. Gets great mileage and I can drive it anywhere.

Agreed with Nick. Something is wrong with the combination.

After talking with Ben, I am confident that his major issue, like many other builds I have experienced, is that his converter does NOT have enough stall.

Taking advice from V-8 guys is worse than nothing at all, they have no clue about sizing converters for a turbo, and I can say the same thing about some repair and tranny shop owners that have no experience with turbo cars.

They all recommend WAY too low a stall in most cases.

His build has a 62 turbo, ported heads and intake and a 218/212 cam, and all these items move the power band way up, and exhaust velocity way down so the turbo is almost useless when trying to launch the car at 2200 RPM stall.

The cam is split the wrong way, it needs more exhaust duration, NOT intake. Most people recommending cams also have little experience of knowledge of the customer's build, and just sell a damn part.

I hate to say this to some of you guys that posted about "items" he should do, but you never looked at the big picture, his combination is not right, and will never be fixed with a bandaid.

At this moment I have 2 GN's here from out of state that I am doing major, expensive renovation to make them right, and I am VERY pissed.

I am not unhappy with the owners, but the a-holes that took their $$$$ and completely screwed up their cars. We are talking serious dollars, and I hate to see an owner screwed like they have been.

As the cars get older, as well as the few of us that started with them 25 years ago also get old and go away, there needs to be more emphasis on using methods, parts and combinations that have been proven to be proper, reliable and perform as the owner desired and get what he paid for.

Sorry for the rant, but especially the new guys need to first decide their goals, and then find someone that has SUCCESSFULLY accomplished the same goals more than once, and hook up with them.

In almost every case, this will be the most economical route!

 

[charlief1]

The cam is split the wrong way, it needs more exhaust duration, NOT intake. Most people recommending cams also have little experience of knowledge of the customer's build, and just sell a damn part.

I've been saying this for a while Nick. If it's not a full out race car you need a 112 to 114 lobe seperation and it needs to be biased to the exhaust side for better spool.

 

[Homie_Telefrag]

Lotta good info here - thanks guys! Thanks Nick for taking time to talk to me about my setup and which way I need to go. Now that I know which direction to take, just a matter of time/money now -Ben

 

[Dusty Bradford]

Slicks and some practice launching will put this car in the 11's. A converter will help it launch without having to abuse the factory brake system.

 

[JC Turbo]

Let me start by saying that i don't know a fraction of what the other guys know that have chimed in here. There are a lot of knowledgeable guys giving very good advice here. I just wanted to add my experiences with the same turbo and less engine mods than what you have. You have the parts to run past your goal of 11 seconds.

My 87 limited had an all stock engine with a TE62 turbo, CAS V4 slic and 60# injectors. Transmission was rebuilt with a Vigilante 3,200 single disk. I had stock control arms that were boxed with poly bushings and one air bag. I had all large brake shoes and stock wheel cylinders

My best 1/4 time with slicks and race gas was 11.20 @ 119 with a 1.51 60'. Best time with alky and drag radials was an 11.40 @ 116 with a 1.54 60'. I drove my car 40 miles each way. You can do it just stick with it and change things a little at a time and keep a log of your changes so you know what works and what doesn't.

Sent from my iPhone using Turbo Buick

 

[Homie_Telefrag]

JC Turbo - how many lbs boost were u runnin when you went 11.20@119? what oct race gas? Just curious...thanks guys! -Ben

 

[JC Turbo]

I believe it was 110 octane and around 28# of boost.

Sent from my iPhone using Turbo Buick

 

[Mr.Spool]

your car needs more than 19lbs of boost,to do that you will have to have octane race/gas or pump/gas/meth.the name of the game is to leave on boost,try the ebrake it works.looking at your post you are basically rolling the car out and not running any real boost.the flash stall of the converter is really important to get the car to wake up,maybe it needs loosening maybe not but either way 19 psi isnt alot of boost.