Is your friend running a cooling system?
Time to go Stage II!
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turbo nasty
Turbo Dojo / MNTR
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2001
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- 9,478
Nope
Wow. Have you ever seen his oil?
turbo nasty
Turbo Dojo / MNTR
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2001
- Messages
- 9,478
Well yeah..... he changes it more frequent but not after every pass, is all I was saying.
What does the oil look like when he changes it?
turbo nasty
Turbo Dojo / MNTR
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2001
- Messages
- 9,478
Lil milky but not physco bad.
How many passes does he go before he changes the oil?
turbo nasty
Turbo Dojo / MNTR
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2001
- Messages
- 9,478
After 10ish passes he changes oil.
I stand corrected on the return road he does get it towed back.
He hooks a vacum up to the breathers post run to pull the moisture and such out of the bottom end. He says its key to keep the oil clean.
I stand corrected on the return road he does get it towed back.
He hooks a vacum up to the breathers post run to pull the moisture and such out of the bottom end. He says its key to keep the oil clean.
I have a friend with an alcohol Pro Mod. He tows to and from, and changes the oil after each run. He takes the used oil and dumps it straight into a kettle that he heats with propane to boil out the fuel and water. His oil looks like yellowish pea soup after a run.
Squid4life
Well-Known Member
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- Jul 5, 2004
- Messages
- 6,275
Hey Donnie, got any porn fab pics to share with us yet? How's the new setup coming along? Running yet? 
Not yet. I'll be pulling the trans first, next week, to freshen it up. Then the engine will be pulled. I've been getting some other projects out of my hair before I dive into the car.Hey Donnie, got any porn fab pics to share with us yet? How's the new setup coming along? Running yet?
Trans has been freshened up, bagged and put on the shelf. Next week, pulling the engine.
The direct clutch steels had quite a bit of heat spotting, but the HE frictions held up nicely. A pleasant surprise. If the frictions had been reds, I'm sure they would have thinned to the metal core.
The HE frictions did need to be replaced, but they wore surprisingly well. Just a slight amount of thinning, some flaking, and they worked fine right up to, and through the very last run. This trans had a lot of runs on it.
Since the plan is to turn the engine to 9000 rpm with the new motor, I added another 1/16" bleed hole to the direct drum to see if maybe the direct clutch needs a little more cross leak bleed off protection while in first gear. I'll be checking up on the trans more often with the new engine to see how things are wearing. I also changed the center support sealing rings from scarf cut teflon to solid teflon rings, added a full time lube passage to the pump (before the TC feed restrictor), added 3 more return springs to the intermediate (all 12 return springs in there now) to see if I can soften the 1-2 apply a little to help prevent blowing the tires away on the 1-2 shift, replaced the front pump gearset (normal hub contact wear), replaced some bushings (normal wear) to tighten things up, and fixed a nagging drain plug in the pan. Went from a pipe plug to a washered drain plug. Also tapped the vent passage in the case to install an AN fitting for a more secure vent line to the catch tank.
The direct clutch steels had quite a bit of heat spotting, but the HE frictions held up nicely. A pleasant surprise. If the frictions had been reds, I'm sure they would have thinned to the metal core.
The HE frictions did need to be replaced, but they wore surprisingly well. Just a slight amount of thinning, some flaking, and they worked fine right up to, and through the very last run. This trans had a lot of runs on it.
Since the plan is to turn the engine to 9000 rpm with the new motor, I added another 1/16" bleed hole to the direct drum to see if maybe the direct clutch needs a little more cross leak bleed off protection while in first gear. I'll be checking up on the trans more often with the new engine to see how things are wearing. I also changed the center support sealing rings from scarf cut teflon to solid teflon rings, added a full time lube passage to the pump (before the TC feed restrictor), added 3 more return springs to the intermediate (all 12 return springs in there now) to see if I can soften the 1-2 apply a little to help prevent blowing the tires away on the 1-2 shift, replaced the front pump gearset (normal hub contact wear), replaced some bushings (normal wear) to tighten things up, and fixed a nagging drain plug in the pan. Went from a pipe plug to a washered drain plug. Also tapped the vent passage in the case to install an AN fitting for a more secure vent line to the catch tank.
turbobitt
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 14, 2002
- Messages
- 2,465
I use all 12 return springs but didn't see any difference in apply. Never tried it but may be worth adding bleed in intermediate piston or increasing the existing bleed orfice in the support. Since I don't have an unlimited source of transmission cores for intermediate springs, I found a nice replacement from Mcmaster-carr.
Allan G.
Yeah, I figure the extra 3 springs added to the intermediate won't really be felt, but seeing how the trans was shifting and how the plates were wearing, I didn't see any reason to put the trans back together with any of the intermediate return springs missing. BTW, I'm running the super sprag that uses the 5 friction plate intermediate pack.
If I decide in the future that the 1-2 shift needs to be tamed down, I'll start decreasing the intermediate feed hole in the separator plate.
The intermediate pack showed very slight heat spotting on 2 steel plates. Not even hot enough to create hard spots.
A little device I use to help support the intermediate snap ring in the void area in the case has worked out extremely well. The intermediate clutch retaining snap ring lugs in the case began to blow out years ago. Only the two lugs closest to the void had blown out when I made the discovery during a freshen up. At the time I had discovered the blown out lugs, I added this little device that uses the unused intermediate band lug inside the case to help support the intermediate snap ring in the void area in the case. As an extreme test for this little device, I decided to keep using the case with the compromised snap ring lugs. After years of abuse, the damage to the lugs has not worsened. The little device has done a fantastic job of saving the case. Besides, the center support fit so snug in this particular case that I hated the idea of dumping it before I absolutely had to. You don't come across 400 cases where the center support fits so well very often.
My method for stabilizing the direct drum is showing no wear. It's working out great.
I was a little surprised as to how much bushing wear the trans had. I'm very careful to polish all the bearing journal surfaces when I build a trans, and still the bushings showed the sort of clearance wear you'd expect to see from a unit with close to 70,000 mile on it. Those were some tough 1/8 mile runs.
My method for stabilizing the direct drum is showing no wear. It's working out great.
I was a little surprised as to how much bushing wear the trans had. I'm very careful to polish all the bearing journal surfaces when I build a trans, and still the bushings showed the sort of clearance wear you'd expect to see from a unit with close to 70,000 mile on it. Those were some tough 1/8 mile runs.
The lube circuit I added to provide pressurized lube feed to the extension housing bushing is working great. The bushing showed very little wear, was extremely smooth, and didn't need to be replaced at this time. Gasgacinch was applied to a new extension housing gasket to try and eliminate a very slight pesty, weeping leak there. I know that eliminating the gasket and using silicone sealer would be the best fix there, but I hate cleaning away old silicone sealer during routine overhauls. I'll give the gasket one last chance.
Squid4life
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
- Messages
- 6,275
Would have loved to be a fly on the wall during your tear down and build of the 400 Donnie. That is one area of the car(s) I have owned I have never dug into, but would love to. Some day, but hopefully not too soon. Hopefully the 400 will live a while before I get the "opportunity" to freshen it.
Bring it down. We can take a look at it for letting me borrow the wing.
Broken top ring on #5 cylinder. I was expecting a broken ring. The rings are the thin metric size Total Seal gapless rings, with the top ring being the gapless. The thinner secondary piece of the top ring is what busted. I'm moving away from Total Seal gapless, and the thin rings with this next motor.
Number 2 main bearing showed some signs of distress. Looks like a little too much clearance there.
Number 6 rod beam bearing shell showed a small patch of wear down to copper on the exhaust side. That is the same valve that lost the lash cap. It appears by the look of the end of that valve that the lash cap, for some time, was half off the end of the valve, which would have caused the exhaust valve to hang open until the lash cap could fall clear of the valve. No signs on the piston or the valve that contact occurred.
Number 1 exhaust valve guide missing a small section. Some of the turbine blades have very slight bending at the major diameter.
Geardrive idler bearing showing absolutely no wear. Tight as new. Gear faces look in good shape.
Head gaskets look great.
Rear seal has a fair amount of wear at the lip. The rear seal was the original seal for this build.
The front seal has no noticeable wear. This front seal was replaced at one point due to lip wear after the initial running of this build due to excessive crankcase pressure that was experienced early on with this build. It could well be that the piston ring was broken during installation of the piston. At the same time that the worn front seal was replaced, I added an extra crankcase vent line to the timing cover to help relieve some of the bottom end pressure. It appears the extra vent line did help to slow down the wear to the new front seal. Now that the block is stripped, I'll be adding another breather hole above the timing set so that blowby can travel easier from the bottom end to the lifter valley area. There are no holes in the lifter valley to vent the bottom end.
Everything else wore great.
Number 2 main bearing showed some signs of distress. Looks like a little too much clearance there.
Number 6 rod beam bearing shell showed a small patch of wear down to copper on the exhaust side. That is the same valve that lost the lash cap. It appears by the look of the end of that valve that the lash cap, for some time, was half off the end of the valve, which would have caused the exhaust valve to hang open until the lash cap could fall clear of the valve. No signs on the piston or the valve that contact occurred.
Number 1 exhaust valve guide missing a small section. Some of the turbine blades have very slight bending at the major diameter.
Geardrive idler bearing showing absolutely no wear. Tight as new. Gear faces look in good shape.
Head gaskets look great.
Rear seal has a fair amount of wear at the lip. The rear seal was the original seal for this build.
The front seal has no noticeable wear. This front seal was replaced at one point due to lip wear after the initial running of this build due to excessive crankcase pressure that was experienced early on with this build. It could well be that the piston ring was broken during installation of the piston. At the same time that the worn front seal was replaced, I added an extra crankcase vent line to the timing cover to help relieve some of the bottom end pressure. It appears the extra vent line did help to slow down the wear to the new front seal. Now that the block is stripped, I'll be adding another breather hole above the timing set so that blowby can travel easier from the bottom end to the lifter valley area. There are no holes in the lifter valley to vent the bottom end.
Everything else wore great.
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