You can type here any text you want

Time to go Stage II!

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!
Chris H. PM'd me and explained that he had a similar experience with the #2 main bearing. He attributed the wear to the use of the stock location motor mounts putting stresses on the TA block that ultimately caused the wear. That makes perfect sense to me. I suppose I'm going to need to install some motor plates.
Exactly. If it was due to wear from the slight amount of load placed on the crank by the oil pump, Booher's blower motor would never make a full pass;)
 
Exactly. If it was due to wear from the slight amount of load placed on the crank by the oil pump, Booher's blower motor would never make a full pass;)
I was thinking that same thing when I was debating that possible cause. It would be nice if Mike could chime in with his findings on main bearing wear, if any, associated with running the blower,... at high boost numbers! :eek:
 
I was thinking that same thing when I was debating that possible cause. It would be nice if Mike could chime in with his findings on main bearing wear, if any, associated with running the blower,... at high boost numbers! :eek:

Good information. Wonder how much this effects an iron block ?

Allan G.
 
I got me a little bit of an initiation working with the T&D Machine rocker shaft assembly.
Needle bearing emergency!!! :confused:

Zip-ties are your best friend with this unit.

IMGP2530rs.jpg
 
I've got a bunch of spare rockers left over from my stage heads if you want them.
 
I have a new set of Ferrea stainless valves out of another set of street ported heads that I'm going to use, instead of getting the Ti right away. I'll just work with a lower rpm limit. There's a set of springs too. I'll be testing them to see what the specs are on them. They were installed at about 1 7/8" on the street heads.
The valves are: Intake 2.08", exhaust 1.625".
 
I wonder if a mid-plate (rear of engine) would be enough to help out with the torque stresses on the block?
I'm going to add the mid-plate while still using the stock location motor mounts, and see how that works out.
 
I'd say yes. I used a mid plate with the stock location motor mounts on my first small block engine. Never had any issues with bearing wear. I like it for 2 reason's. The mid plate helped with the torque stress and the motor mounts prevented forward and backward movement you get from 2 motor plates.

The downside was it made using an engine diaper more difficult and pulling the engine wasn't as easy. I have now went to front motor plate and mid plate with some braces to prevent engine movement front to rear. I really like the motor plates for pulling and replacing the engine.
 
I made some quick checks on the valvetrain and it looks like I will need left offset on all 12 lifters. As much offset that I can get away with. Even still, I'm going to have to open up the existing pushrod holes in the heads inorder to clear the pushrods.
The lifter body ODs will be .903" to take advantage of the larger roller end. I've been using .903" for awhile now.
The springs that came with the street heads were about 120 lbs seat and just under 400 lb/in spring rate. Too light! Good break-in springs, maybe.

IMGP2534rs.jpg
IMGP2533rs.jpg
 
You need to use ISKY ez-roll lifters the highest grade, the others are no comparison, in durability, supposedly according to ISKY. Donnie did you get my email? I know you have a habit of not checking it.o_O
 
You need to use ISKY ez-roll lifters the highest grade, the others are no comparison, in durability, supposedly according to ISKY. Donnie did you get my email? I know you have a habit of not checking it.o_O
Yes. I just finished replying to them.
Crower is also selling a bushed style of roller lifter. I had it in mind to take a look at both of them.
 
The Ferrea valves have an imprinted part number on them. I was able to trace them down as Competition Plus Super Flo models.
Original application: Small block Chevy. Brodix/Dart 18 degree heads.
Under-cut stems.
Swirl polished.
11/32" stem OD.
.250" tip.
5.560" overall length.
 
Wow I am scared to death after reading that article, what should I do, I have crower and crane needle bearing lifters I want to use.
 
Wow I am scared to death after reading that article, what should I do, I have crower and crane needle bearing lifters I want to use.
Send the Crower lifters back and they'll bush them.
 
That was good info about the lifters... Makes me want to either buy new ones that are bushed, or run hydraulic for the extra piece of mind. Pretty sure the ones I have stashed away for this motor are plain needle bearing Isky offsets. Scary stuff... I guess whatever I choose the car will see much more preventive maintenance and inspection than I thought.
 
Wow I am scared to death after reading that article, what should I do, I have crower and crane needle bearing lifters I want to use.

I browesed through the article really quick and not in detail but it appears the debate was around durability in a BBC. I ran my car with cheapy comp lifters before they started putting the EDM hole and I never had any issues. My engine had bushed lifter bores and very restricted oil to the lifters. I wasn't running high spring loads but did run a lot of street miles and lots of idle time. I since stepped up the the Crower lifters and Hippo oiling option. I'm running significantly more spring load anf have been driving my car regularly on the street with no issues so far.
I would not be disscouraged about running roller lifters on the street. I would definetly look into the bushed stuff though.

Allan G.
 
Back
Top