To sleeve or not to sleeve

[Eticket]

stagemonster, let me know if you would rather move that block (in case this other one doesn't work out for me)

 

[stagemonster]

Will do.

 

[J-B Racing]

Some of you may have a Sleeved Block and don`t even know it. My Machine Shop that I have been dealing with for 30 years does Amazing work. When I get the Block back. The owner of the Block can`t tell the difference.
I have also heard that a Sleeved Block is stronger than none at all.

Joe

 

[HelloBozos]

I had piston pin ride the #4 cylider wall on fresh build. The Machinist Fixed it by adding a sleve,To much of the bore was removed an he didn't add a "Chrome Molly" sleve,Overboosted once, cracked that sleve an the block....(it'd loose all the Rad. fuild in 20 minutes,but the car still pulled like raped ape). I'm told if you sleve, Chrome Molly's the way to go....

Enjoy!

 

[norbs]

The Sleeve issue is very debatable, as you seen in my pics then can crack, I;ve seen it with my own eyes........

 

[Eticket]

Norbs, any more details on why the crack? Seems like the sleeve install is important as well as materials.

I'm convinced to not be scared at all now. If this works out, I'll be happy to build my friends block for personal reasons.

 

[turbobuick]

My block has a sleeve in it and it has never been an issue.

 

[750H.P.V6]

My block has a sleeve in it and it has never been an issue.

But Chris you're ONLY making 1400 H.P.

Neal

 

[norbs]

Norbs, any more details on why the crack? Seems like the sleeve install is important as well as materials.

I'm convinced to not be scared at all now. If this works out, I'll be happy to build my friends block for personal reasons.

No idea, a local shop did the install years back. I may have a pic showing the sleeve with a buckle in it near the top also, meaning it distorted from the heat/stress I guess..........

 

[WIKEDV6]

One of my buddies went 8.40's close to 170 mph with an on center block with two sleeves and pan rail repair. Still in the car.

HTH
Prasad

 

[turbofabricator]

There is only ONE brand of sleeve to ever run. DARTON SLEEVE. I have used gray iron sleeves and have them crack in the exact same spot. Went to a Darton sleeve and the machinist said "WOW!!!!! that sleeve was shooting blue chips at very minimal cut depth....I've installed hundreds of sleeves over the years and have never seen such strong material". I've sleeved both StageI and Stage II blocks with good results. Make sure the machinist doesn't bore too deep and leave too thin of a register for the sleeve. Had one machinist go too deep and I only caught it when I was porting the oiling galleries and something caught my eye.......there was a crack 1/3 of the way around the bottom of the sleeve. He had gone too deep and when he hammered the sleeve in place he cracked the bottom register. I pulled it out with a scribe and it looked like a broken piston ring. That would've been very destructive bouncing around in the crank case. Better to be lucky than good.

 

[street-t]

Yes, I'm going to be running an on-center block with a sleeve. I'm shooting for 1000 hp right now, but I think my motor is good for ~1500 hp and the sleeve doesn't bother me one bit. You might be suprised how many stage blocks have sleeves. You probably haven't heard of many because it's not something people announce regularly because if done right it's not a concern.

Read the description of both of these motors that were for sale. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/threads/any-interest-in-going-fast-8-sec-street-car.317585/
These were some of the fastest iron block, production head motors around. Both made big power and one of them is probably about to be the highest hp production head motor. Both shortblocks have sleeves.
[/QUOTE

Bringing this thread back since I ran across it. I now own that motor. The sleeve cracked at 800 hp. It also dropped twice before it cracked. My advice to anyone is stay away from anything sleeved.

 

[Mr.Spool]

i have tried to explain that to people but they dont get it

 

[earlbrown]

Same people that think any crank turned past .010" is trash.

Even if the journals are 1/2" bigger than other cranks to start with.


...or water can't shed heat if it's moving ''fast''.