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Turbo and Torque Converter Combo

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JimP

Active Member
Joined
Nov 28, 2007
Messages
764
OK,
I need to vent a bit. I just had my trans freshened up due to a flare. It's now working great however I had a small leak which I was not able to pin point. What I though was a loose pump bolt turned out to be a hair line crack on the converter where the stator is, needless to say I could get this fixed, but this means more down time, sending out converter for repair, turn around time etc and the fear of it happening again.

My current converter is a PATS 10 inch which stalls at 3,400 rpm 0 lbs of boost but it does not feel loose if that makes sense, the rpm's do not really jump if I burp the throttle. Until now it had worked flawlessly with my TE-60-1 and other mods found in sig. I have a trans brake and was wondering if the stress of using it only a few times (less than 10) may have caused the damage to the stator. I am running a hardened stator and billet hard parts in the trans, it's built well beyond my power level.

I've had the converter 6 years and have less than 5,000 kilometers on it.
My issue - I needed a new turbo since mine took a dump last year, but now i'm also looking at a converter.

Onto the turbo, last year the TE-60-1 I had took a dump, I was leant a PTE-54 which looks exactly like my TE-60-1, I can't seem to find a single visible difference. I need to return it to my buddy and will need a new turbo (the waste gate hole was too large on this one, the puck on my Terry Houston down pipe does not cover it, no room for a larger puck can't build more than 15lbs of boost with it). My dilema is selecting the proper turbo and converter. My car is a street car, it's been down a track 3 times, it went 118 @ 11.48 with zero lbs boost launch on drag radials and 12.0 on regular radials at 116mph. These runs at 22 psi pump gas and alky.

My goal good fun reliable street car but if I can pick up a bit of performance over what I had with a better turbo and converter that would be great too. I figure now would be the time to do it and I only want to do this once and get the best turbo / converter combo if anyone can help me please.

I know these mods have been beat to death however the more I read into turbos and converters the more I get confused. I am open to suggestions. If my old computer hadn't crashed I had Brian's email in there some where (Bison) I hope he sees this.

Thanks,

Jim
 
RJC used to make a plate that goes between the turbo and downpipe that had a smaller hole for the wastegate. It was a good fix for overported wastegate hole. If he still makes it you could try that with the 54 to see if that turbo is OK for your needs. Cheap enough for experimenting.
 
My goal good fun reliable street car but if I can pick up a bit of performance over what I had with a better turbo and converter that would be great too. I figure now would be the time to do it and I only want to do this once and get the best turbo / converter combo if anyone can help me please.
Jim

I tried Pats convertors and the customer service was outstanding and IIRC the guy was Steve he honored every problem. My issues was while he honored all the isues the convertors just kept having fins break loose, cracked snout just like you had, start rattling, etc. I had to find a new company and chose PTC.

Whats your ET goal? A TA49, Alky and 2600 10 L/U will run mid 11's with a 1.6 60' @ 23 PSI in decent air on a BONE stock unopened engine.
 
Fwiw a pt54 uses a t04 69 trim ex wheel and. A te60 uses a stage 3 ex wheel. The pt54 requires
a lot more stall to have the same response. Also I've never seen a 3400 stall at zero with a 10" won't couple well with higher power levels. My car traps 138+ and stalls to 3100@0. I've gone 124+ with a pt54 long ago. Both turbos mentioned use the same 60-1 compressor wheel.
 
I wonder what your combo is bison. Thats haulin some tail


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turbojoe1 said:
I wonder what your combo is bison. Thats haulin some tail

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

It was back 1999. Precision fm, pt54, decent heads. non adjustable chip 26-27psi. Tmk that turbo has been 130mph.
 
The trans brake didn't have anything to do with the snout on the converter cracking. The 200-r4 is notorious for cracking converter snouts. I have never been able to narrow it down to harmonics in the pump or what may cause it, it just happens. The tbrake can be hard on the fins inside but that doesn't seem to be an issue with you.

If your converter stalls to 3400 at 0 boost its surely on the loose side.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
Thanks for the replies, I will try to foot brake it tomorrow and see what rpm it stalls at then.

I tried the 0 psi stall test with the t-brake today, it showed zero psi on my boost guage, and 3,300 rpm on the scan master at 0 psi (but I can hear the turbo spooling a lot), I pushed it a bit more and as soon as I got into some boost on the guage the rpm's just started to climb as if the car was in neutral but there was definitely a load on the motor so I may be driving through the converter, I only let that happen for several seconds. Either way I will be buying a new converter and turbo as the one on the car was a loaner so I could it to and from storage .

I'll check with Bison, to see what he has for sale turbo wise and I see that Dusty is a PTC distributor, going to jump over to PTC's site now and have a peek even though I should probably be going to bed, I work day shift tomorrow and 5 am comes quick.

Jim
 
3300 at 0 is your stall speed and its doing what any turbo converter does as boost climbs. 3300 is on the loose side but can work depending on how far you want to push it. If the motor has a cam and shifts around 5800 the higher stall can work. If its a stock cam it's way to loose.

The only way to know if its running through the converter is to look at the rpm drop on the gear changes or compare trap rpm to mph.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
3300 at 0 is your stall speed and its doing what any turbo converter does as boost climbs. 3300 is on the loose side but can work depending on how far you want to push it. If the motor has a cam and shifts around 5800 the higher stall can work. If its a stock cam it's way to loose.

The only way to know if its running through the converter is to look at the rpm drop on the gear changes or compare trap rpm to mph.

Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
How much rpm drop would you be looking for?
 
I'll definitely try to see the rpm drop, my only issue is the low boost right now, it will not go over 14 at best with the large hole in the wastegate, it's been ported out too much. This is my last 12 hour shift so once today is over I will definitely contact Brian (Bison) and see which turbo he recommends ( or may have) for my combo, then I'll worry about the converter, I just need to sit down and itemize all that is done to the car.
 
How much rpm drop would you be looking for?

500 would be a minimum with this type converter but I prefer 800 or so. I do have some cars with a low shift point that will only drop 400-500 but still only have 4-6% slip but those are the 9.5 non locks. A slip calculation can get a ball park slip number to compare vs rpm drop.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
I'll definitely try to see the rpm drop, my only issue is the low boost right now, it will not go over 14 at best with the large hole in the wastegate, it's been ported out too much. This is my last 12 hour shift so once today is over I will definitely contact Brian (Bison) and see which turbo he recommends ( or may have) for my combo, then I'll worry about the converter, I just need to sit down and itemize all that is done to the car.


This plate may help you with wastegate hole issue. I have had teh exact same issue before and this solved it

http://rjcracing.com/product/exhaust-systems-2/flanges-weld-bungs/
 
500 would be a minimum with this type converter but I prefer 800 or so. I do have some cars with a low shift point that will only drop 400-500 but still only have 4-6% slip but those are the 9.5 non locks. A slip calculation can get a ball park slip number to compare vs rpm drop.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app

just wondering my car went 10.97 @ only 119 its was blowing through the converter zero drop in rpm , I had a guy come ask me did I have a glide in the car lol .... how much slippage would that be? I now have one of your non lock up converters but haven't tested it out yet
 
says it should have went 128 mph so how does that determin percentage of slip ? sorry I tuned the car with scan master only. 3.42 gear no idea of rpm 28 inch tires
 
just wondering my car went 10.97 @ only 119 its was blowing through the converter zero drop in rpm , I had a guy come ask me did I have a glide in the car lol .... how much slippage would that be? I now have one of your non lock up converters but haven't tested it out yet


Well into the 20% range.
 
ty it was an un opend block .... it might have set a record who knows but it wasn't dusty converter .... im not naming names but it was high priced .... im no tuner but im the only one to tune the car with erics chip an I gave it all the fuel I could
 
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