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krazy86t

Member
Joined
Jun 21, 2009
Messages
388
Removed the tired old ujoints from my drive shaft while the trans is out of the car. trying to find replacements.

I've searched a few threads and notice that there are recommendations for Brute Force 2-3011BF u-joints over stock replacements. Advance sells these in non-zerk fitting option for $16/ea, which seems like a pretty good price if these are a strength upgrade over stock replacement.

Napa has a "super strength" version of the stock u-joint for $27/ea in zerk and non-zerk options. Are these better than Brute Force, or other way around?

Some people claim Dana Spicer u-joints are even better, but these are harder to find. I doubt that my bolt-on improved, TA49 boosted engine with methanol injection will be worth the trouble of finding spicer ujoints.
 
I have had the NAPA super strength, no zerk version in my car now since last year (2010) with 2000 miles & 10 1/4 mile passes. No issues at all. I went with no zerk just for a little piece of mind. That hole drilled for the zerk does take minimal strength out of the steel, not alot, but some.

You don't need Spicer's.
 
I have had the NAPA super strength, no zerk version in my car now since last year (2010) with 2000 miles & 10 1/4 mile passes. No issues at all. I went with no zerk just for a little piece of mind. That hole drilled for the zerk does take minimal strength out of the steel, not alot, but some.

You don't need Spicer's.

do u have the napa part # thanx joe
 
I've had the Brute Force u-joints in my stock driveshaft for years. Thousands of street miles and 200+ 1/4 mile passes and no problems. They're about all you need for a mild street going TR.

Also I'd put a driveshaft loop in while its all apart as well.
 
If you get the one's with the grease zerk in it make sure to install it correctly. The area that the zerk is in need to be under compression depending on the direction of travel. It may be easier to explain this way. Look at the direction the driveshaft turns. One side is the drive side and the other is the driven side. The zerk need to be between the drive and the driven parts but as it turns it will be under less stress if the driven side is compressing it into the driven side. If you don't get it I can see if I can fnd a diagram.:)
 
this can
ds1.jpg


lead to this
ds.jpg


which can lead to this !!!
tranny.jpg


which leads to this !!!!! :( notice the trail of shame? holding 15# on the ebrake just a bolt on car that should of went mid 11"s so it wasnt like it was a 600hp car. 1st time out with the car had it 3 weeks and from the looks of it tranny was new!
broket.jpg
 
And believe it or not you cant even get the tip onto the zerks to grease them once they are installed better off without them.
 
You really need to learn how to load directly to the board James. Photophucket takes frigging forever to down load.:mad:
 
hello; I did some searching this summer for u-j and I went with a spicer 5-795x witch are discontinued. I got them on line for like $50.00 with shipping with a new spicer #SLP25-6x. I went non greasable and there not installed yet..I got them to hopefully get rid of a vibration I've been chasing.
good luck
IBBY
 
this can
ds1.jpg


lead to this
ds.jpg


which can lead to this !!!
tranny.jpg


which leads to this !!!!! :( notice the trail of shame? holding 15# on the ebrake just a bolt on car that should of went mid 11"s so it wasnt like it was a 600hp car. 1st time out with the car had it 3 weeks and from the looks of it tranny was new!
broket.jpg

just so i follow what you are saying..
power upgrades+25 year old u joints that have probably never been greased=broken parts..
 
i installed the Brute Force ujoints, because 1) posts in this forum have expressed satisfaction with the product, and 2) NAPA non-zerk "super strength" were not available locally.

fyi - related thread about "made in USA" - Brute Force ujoint is not made in USA (China). i don't know where NAPA ujoints are made.
 
just so i follow what you are saying..
power upgrades+25 year old u joints that have probably never been greased=broken parts..

Not at all what im saying !!!! I have raced probably around 10 of these cars that i have owned all with the usual bolt ons with slicks and never checked the presumably stock u joints on any of them and the only u joints that ever failed me ( on the 1st pass i might add) were the greaseable u joint pictured above . It also broke the yoke too. Tranny was cracked from 1 pan rail to the other.


Sorry about the picture thing charlie but its the only way i currently know how to do pics. If you can pm me with another way on how to upload them i will give it a shot!
 
Greaseable u joints are weaker due to teh cavitys that transfer lube. Get a non greasable one for a stronger set. Spicers are top notch.
 
Not at all what im saying !!!! I have raced probably around 10 of these cars that i have owned all with the usual bolt ons with slicks and never checked the presumably stock u joints on any of them and the only u joints that ever failed me ( on the 1st pass i might add) were the greaseable u joint pictured above . It also broke the yoke too. Tranny was cracked from 1 pan rail to the other.


Sorry about the picture thing charlie but its the only way i currently know how to do pics. If you can pm me with another way on how to upload them i will give it a shot!

it might just be the pic, but it doesn't look like there is any grease in there.. the joint could have dried out and developed slop in the rollers, which led to extra stress being put on the cross, which led to a groove, which was the real beginning of the failure.. you said yourself that you've put a lot of stress on a lot of these parts and this was the first failure- that tells me that it might not be the joint that aren't up to the task but rather the maintenance history of this particular u joint that led to it's failure..
 
it might just be the pic, but it doesn't look like there is any grease in there.. the joint could have dried out and developed slop in the rollers, which led to extra stress being put on the cross, which led to a groove, which was the real beginning of the failure.. you said yourself that you've put a lot of stress on a lot of these parts and this was the first failure- that tells me that it might not be the joint that aren't up to the task but rather the maintenance history of this particular u joint that led to it's failure..

If you say so...but I think my stock u-joints (non-greasable) in my mid 10pack sec. transbrake car will disagree when compared to the local low 11 sec. car with greasables that split one in 2 tearing up all kinds of stuff.
 
it might just be the pic, but it doesn't look like there is any grease in there.. the joint could have dried out and developed slop in the rollers, which led to extra stress being put on the cross, which led to a groove, which was the real beginning of the failure.. you said yourself that you've put a lot of stress on a lot of these parts and this was the first failure- that tells me that it might not be the joint that aren't up to the task but rather the maintenance history of this particular u joint that led to it's failure..
Agreed looked like there was no grease where it was drilled and tappped but ujoints were not sloppy, clunky or noisey. I feel they just weak since they had a hole drilled in them.

Stockers with 100,000 + miles no problems. Newer greaseable u joints 1st trip to trap and a big fail ! I wont ever buy greasable ujoints ever again. I did buy a heavy duty set from napa after this incident and i believe they were usa made and $50-60 for the pair
 
these are the HD ujoints napa sold me.they were $25-$30 each
ujoint001.jpg

ujoint002.jpg

ujoint003.jpg


better pics of the tranny and yoke carnage
ujoint006.jpg

ujoint007.jpg

ujoint005.jpg


charlie i tried to upload these pics to the board but it was taking forever to just try to get 1 up. i do know how to do it now thanks again for the call yesterday i appreciate it :)
 
Those Federal-Mogul/Precision/NAPA super strength ujoints look nice! wish i could have found those in a reasonable amount of time.

i would take a picture of the brute-force version, but they are in the car now - box definitely said "hecho en China" ;)
 
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