Well i burnt a main bearing today

[joeyg329]

Well, two days ago i developed a vibration in my car, that turned to slight knocking noise and heavier vibration. Took the pan off, found 2nd to last main bearing burnt and shaved. FML.
When i purchased the car, the previous owner said the crank was cut and new bearings were in, New timing chain and lifters and oil pump. I have pulled the heads and done springs, valve job, gaskets and bolts since i had it. Motor has about 3000 miles on it since the bottom end was done.
Few questions: Crank is .010, can these cranks be machined further? I think the main is beyond a polish at this point.
With the mods i have (check sig), should i do a full tear down and replace pistons, rings, Oil pump, rods and crank? Along with maybe a small cam and head porting? The machine shop guy i use said he is good at fixing the oil flow problem these motors have. I would assume this was the cause of the bearing failure. . . i have not beaten the car to death and im running 18 psi with alky tuned with no knock and good a/fs.
Any suggestions on upgraded bottom end stuff, or should i just recondition the stock stuff for my power level? I plan on running 22 psi.
Would it be a waste of time to just pull the crank and have it fixed and put new bearings in, and just flushing the motor out? Cost is a factor, i spent alot already and my budget is reasonable for the rebuild but not crazy.
Sorry for all the questions, any help would be awesome. Thanks guys

 

[3.8L V-8 eater]

Guy's with more knowledge will chime in, but here is my take on it... The crank I have has been turned .020 and i was told with the billet main caps that should not be a problem. Others have gone even further, but I would not do more than .020 As long as you are not going faster than high tens you should be ok... As far as cleaning up the crank and just putting in new bearings I would not go there!! Too much work involved to cut yourself short at that point, may as well save up and do the bottom end with new pistons and get some main caps have the block flushed etc... Also if you are looking into going with a cam. Roller is the only way to go!!

 

[86GN5.3]

These engines are getting more and more expensive to build right that's why I am doing an lsx conversion. My budget just doesn't have the room to do a well built 6. A bare bones complete running swap w/ a used 5.3 lsx can be done for less than $2000. I am trying to sell my longblock locally but if I do not have any takers I am going to take it apart and sell stuff individually and I think I have an uncut good turbo crank but I wont know until and if I teardown.

 

[Nick Micale]

.......... The machine shop guy i use said he is good at fixing the oil flow problem these motors have. I would assume this was the cause of the bearing failure. . ......s

These motors, actually engines, do NOT have an oiling problem, but they do have problems when it is not rebuilt properly, or someone tries to "improve" the oil system, and it is not done properly.

We have done many 109 blocks deep into the 9's, and one went into the high 8's with a modified stock cover/pump and gears.

It is not rocket science, but it does require some knowledge and experience.

 

[turbofabricator]

Awwwww...........what do you know Nick. You MUST drill the oil holes out to 3/4" and use a dry sump system if you want to make over 400 HP.:biggrin:

I agree with Nick on this. Nothing wrong with the stock oiling system. Hell I just spent an entire weekend trying to solve an oil pressure problem because it was making 150+ psi at idle. Stock timing cover with a TA HV pump cover. (Ok it is highly modified, but still an OEM casting 14 bolt cover)
You need to figure out why the bearing failed. Did the previous owner reuse the oil cooler? If so it may have sent debris through the engine. As the engine started without first priming the oil pump? Too tight a clearance?.........lots of possibities.
You can safely turn a Turbo crank to. 040". The typical rolled fillet is usually still there at. 030" and another .005" off of the compressed area of the crank shouldn't weaken the crank any. They usually break between #5 and #6 rod throws anyway.

 

[Rubicon 327]

Good Build Info??

I have my car down at Otto's for a strange noise that we had hoped was a simple cam and lifter issue......well of course my luck it isn't that simple!

Found this info while cruising around the net and it seemed to have good info but I am NOT an engine builder by any means maybe there are better ways of doing things they show on here but if I were going to do it myself I would probably use this info as a starting point without asking a million questions on here and driving everyone nuts. Not to mention it all depends on what you expect from your build, mine is a mostly stock engine.

Just passing it along is all and I am not saying I have used this info. Maybe someone here can vouch for weather or not it is good info.See it's from GM High Tech I would think it would be good.www.reocities.com/pipeline/rapids/3478/GNbuild.doc -

 

[A2000RICH]

These motors, actually engines, do NOT have an oiling problem, but they do have problems when it is not rebuilt properly, or someone tries to "improve" the oil system, and it is not done properly.

We have done many 109 blocks deep into the 9's, and one went into the high 8's with a modified stock cover/pump and gears.

It is not rocket science, but it does require some knowledge and experience.

agreed-----i love these guys that have solutions for problems that don't exist--------makes me wonder what kind of solutions they have for real problems

 

[Nick Micale]

Found this info while cruising around the net and it seemed to have good info but I am NOT an engine builder by any means maybe there are better ways of doing things they show on here but if I were going to do it myself I would probably use this info as a starting point without asking a million questions on here and driving everyone nuts.

Just passing it along is all and I am not saying I have used this info. Maybe someone here can vouch for weather or not it is good info.

See it's from GM High Tech I would think it would be good. www.reocities.com/pipeline/rapids/3478/GNbuild.doc -

You need to think again, not wanting to be negative or appear smug, but this is among the worst piece of Buick tech info ever published. It has caused MANY problems, and I know of V-6 blocks that were trashed because of drilling the oil feed holes in the block to the mains.

Actually this is right up there with the GSCA article stating that the TA block is not a good piece because it is aluminum, not iron.

I am familiar with most all of the quality turbo Buick engine builders, or their work, and none I know of use this process?

Have NOT heard of any recent Buick engine builds from Jack in recent years, so that should tell you something?

I have met Jack in person, and he has done some good engine work on other brands, but had some issues in the Buick world.

Many shops can rebuild a turbo Buick engine, but if you want a PERFORMANCE build, go to one of the current shops around the country that have a proven track record for what you want.

 

[Rubicon 327]

Well Nick I'm glad you saw it and said something, hopefully it will save someone many headaches in the future!

Thanks for setting the record straight Nick!

 

[Nick Micale]

I have my car down at Otto's for a strange noise that we had hoped was a simple cam and lifter issue...

You are in good hands with Otto, he will not lead you astray!

 

[GARY HARVEY]

A Strong stock block...

Can be had easily enough without spending too much, there are many idea's posted here.

A good pair of heads done correctly is basic.
A modified/upgraded oiling system is treading water.
Piston's are a positive, APR fasteners, beam grinding and shot peening (sp) the rods, good bearings, steel caps (if you have someone with the experience and know how), balancing and a better harmonic balancer, quality gaskets etc. etc., and improved ignition will put a smile on the situation.
Then you can add coating, cryogenics and whatever (cam) if you have the dedication & funds OR you can follow the path of least resistance and have something that will end up looking like the above (i wish i had that very nice intake).
Then find a formula to get your little monster to hook.

 

[joeyg329]

Thanks for the replies guys, i dont know why my machinist mentioned these engines having oil problems. . . I wasnt there when the previous owner did the bottom end, but it looks like it was a turn the motor upside down, leave the pistons and rods in and just fix the crank. . . When i pulled the heads and intake i could see it had not been apart. . . plus it had 4 slightly bent push rods that i replaced. The other bearings all look just fine, it was the just the 2nd to last main.
What i thinking is sending the block out, having it checked out, fixing the stock crank, do a little work to the stock rods, get some arp rods bolts,buy a new set of pistons and rings, and find someone to do a little port work on the heads and intake. I just wanna be in the mid 11's, i dont wanna go any further than that for awhile. Are steel caps a good investment for this? Gary u mentioned in ur post that someone with the know how and experience should handle this, i assume this means there is some machining required for setting up the steel caps? Where can i get these?
As far as the balancer is concerned, is there a problem with the stock one or just cuz of its age? Would a stock replacement work?
Lastly, is it worth doing a cam for my mods? I know roller is the way to go, but its alot more expensive than a small cam kit. Any cams of choice u guys use?
Thanks!
Plus i have a pic of the bearing too

 

[GARY HARVEY]

Yep, She got hot..

Locating steel caps should not be too big a problem but it would be easier to have the block cut and align honed and get yourself a better cam, maybe someone will pop up here with a cap source or touch base with Jack Cotton and if he doesn't have them I'd be surprised if he wasn't able to point you in the right direction.
If you have a strip close buy, hang around and ask a few people that are local to your area, who they would suggest to do your needed work and don't be afraid of asking for a few of his happy customers (to visit with).
Pistons are a good idea if you have funds but not necessary unless old plugs are in less than acceptable condition.
Jerry Ehlert with Calico Coatings in Denver, NC will have your (coated) bearings.
A fresh balancer is another positive but not mandatory.
Being close to a big city will help with finding a machine shop that will give you the time of day or in the least have someone you can communicate with your questions.. like Otto.
Otto should be able to take care of much of this as you want to give him.