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What are all you TE44 guys running?

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cuda6pak

Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2004
Messages
468
As far as mods/times? Only time I've taken my 87 to the track I was running pump gas and 15/16psi (I know I know :o ) and only managed an 8.60@83. Now I have it on around 21psi on SMC meth. Seems like some are running mid 12's around 108mph while others are going 122+ in the 1/4 :eek:

Important mods - girlded 109, port work on stock irons, 208 comp cams, THDP, Hooker exhaust w/dump, PTE44, stock intercooler with dutt neck, TT chip, 43psi line off, (v5.5 93 pump, maxed out WOT fuel and +1* of timing in both 1/2 and 3/4), blue top 42.5's, hotwired 340, Art carr tranny and Art carr 3000 n/l.

I think the stock intercooler is holding me back but I'm going to try and line up with my buddy's 79 Stang tonight to get an idea of where I'm at with the boost now turned up :cool:
 
TE-44, 36#868, TH dp, stock IC, 340 Walbro, K&N, Air Bag, all else stock.

Best 11.98 116mph. Usual 12.0 - 12.2 on CP-16 race fuel.


Now that NHRA restrictions are lowered to 11.5 before a cage is required, I'm ready to improve. Hunting for cheap used 60# injectors. ;)
 
11.53@118.3 (7.35@93 1/8th) with a TA49 @ 23 psi, stock long block, THDP, Big neck stock intercooler, 36# Bluetop T108 chip with 275/60 drag radials.

What tire are you running? Your combo won't work with a 26" tire. You need a 28" tire.

If you are only running 108 mph, check your RPM through the traps. If its 5200 or more, you found your problem.
 
Forgot to add that I'm running 275/60/15 Nittos and 93/meth, and tuning by Scanmaster and Casper's knock gauge.

Oh and what all are you guys tuning with? Track times? Scanmaster/knock gauge? Wideband?
 
My signature is up to date, I just added the heads, Erison 208/208 cam 2 weeks ago. Will get new times in 3 weeks, Buick East Coast Regionals at Cecil County Dragway. Rising Sun, MD.
My best MPH was 115(25#'s boost/93/alky/converter locked), but that was not on the 12.09 run(25#'s boost/93/alky), I have some tuning to do, and thanks for the tip maybe a taller tire would help my combo also... I have the 275/50/15 Nitto Radials.

Chuck
 
Important mods - girlded 109, port work on stock irons, 208 comp cams, THDP, Hooker exhaust w/dump, PTE44, stock intercooler with dutt neck, TT chip, 43psi line off, (v5.5 93 pump, maxed out WOT fuel and +1* of timing in both 1/2 and 3/4), blue top 42.5's, hotwired 340, Art carr tranny and Art carr 3000 n/l.

Maxed out WOT fuel? If your running the 42.5 injectors for all they have and the alky kit turned up, it very possible that the car is rich.

The 3000 non lockup on a low horse motor will get you about 2-4 less mph than a locked up stock convertor.

Can you give us a rundown of your timeslip?

BW
 
11.53@118.3 (7.35@93 1/8th) with a TA49 @ 23 psi, stock long block, THDP, Big neck stock intercooler, 36# Bluetop T108 chip with 275/60 drag radials.

What tire are you running? Your combo won't work with a 26" tire. You need a 28" tire.

If you are only running 108 mph, check your RPM through the traps. If its 5200 or more, you found your problem.

this is what Melissa ran for the last 10:cool: years ... simple set up that worked :biggrin: oh ..she had a 44 and a 3" downpipe goin threw the stock elbow :cool:
 
so what stall is the best for a l/u convertor and a te44, stock motor?
 
I would HIGHLY recommend the Art Carr 16930 non lockup TC, and have it stalled where you want it. 2800-3000 is probably best as you dont want too much slip and you should be in plenty of boost by 3000 anyway...that is if they can stall it down to 2800. Mine was way overstalled. I could get to 3200rpm before I even built 1-2psi. No idea what the guy who owned the car before was thinking. He had 4.56 gears in it as well in a 7.5" rear end. He had the drivetrain set up like the thing had a 8000rpm redline or something. When I pulled out that TC and switched it in favor of a stock D5, it felt like I had lost 100hp. A TC can make that much difference. What kills me is I pulled it out hoping for better mileage....and it ABSOLUTELY should have gotten better mileage but didnt. Not even a 1mpg improvement. Another good thing about this TC is that its only 9.5", so you have far less rotational inertia to overcome. Its like throwing an aluminum flywheel in a manual trannied car. Not only does the high stall make the turbo spool faster, but the reduced rotational inertia helps the motor rev up much faster.
 
Maxed out WOT fuel? If your running the 42.5 injectors for all they have and the alky kit turned up, it very possible that the car is rich.

The 3000 non lockup on a low horse motor will get you about 2-4 less mph than a locked up stock convertor.

Can you give us a rundown of your timeslip?

BW


I'm at low 800mV to upper 700's at WOT with the way it's setup right now. If I take any fuel out I get knock and it runs too lean. I think the chip must have been burned a while ago before much of the mods were done to the car. I'm going to bump the timing up a tad and raise the boost tonight.

VadersV6, that is the exact converter that I have.
 
T-Top 86 Grand National (61300km)
stock long block, stock suspension, 12 inch red stripe convertor (2800stall), te44, smc alk injection (95 % etanol), 25.5lbs boost, 94 octane, hooker cat back with dyno max ultra flow muffers, 42 ½ lbs 009 injectors, turbotweak alky chip, thdp, mease 24 row IC, Ron Custom max boost brake module, MT drag radials (275/50/15) 3835lbs race weight with driver. (Torque convertor locked only after car shifted in third), rjc power plate, rjc boost controller, zeitronix wideband, HR motor mounts, comp cam 980 valve springs.
BEST E/T
60FT=1.55
1/8= 7.34
1/4= 11.59
MPH=118
BEST 60FT=1.52

O2 are 770 and a/f 11.5 to 11.3 at high rpm, between 5000 and 5200 rpm.
Most of the time I have O kr, but sometimes I get between 1 and 4 kr on the shifts or when I let off the gas . Highest egt was 1708 at the end of the 1/4.

MARCO.
 
I would HIGHLY recommend the Art Carr 16930 non lockup TC, and have it stalled where you want it. 2800-3000 is probably best as you dont want too much slip and you should be in plenty of boost by 3000 anyway...that is if they can stall it down to 2800. Mine was way overstalled. I could get to 3200rpm before I even built 1-2psi. No idea what the guy who owned the car before was thinking. He had 4.56 gears in it as well in a 7.5" rear end. He had the drivetrain set up like the thing had a 8000rpm redline or something. When I pulled out that TC and switched it in favor of a stock D5, it felt like I had lost 100hp. A TC can make that much difference. What kills me is I pulled it out hoping for better mileage....and it ABSOLUTELY should have gotten better mileage but didnt. Not even a 1mpg improvement. Another good thing about this TC is that its only 9.5", so you have far less rotational inertia to overcome. Its like throwing an aluminum flywheel in a manual trannied car. Not only does the high stall make the turbo spool faster, but the reduced rotational inertia helps the motor rev up much faster.


It might flash higher, build boost faster, but if it is a less efficient convertor(ie: less MPH, stays way past the RPM range of the motor, and doesnt put the power to the ground)
Then whats the point?
There are great nonlockup convertors out there that have proven to put down great MPH, but its not the 16930 on a low HP motor.

BW
 
I'm at low 800mV to upper 700's at WOT with the way it's setup right now. If I take any fuel out I get knock and it runs too lean. I think the chip must have been burned a while ago before much of the mods were done to the car. I'm going to bump the timing up a tad and raise the boost tonight.

VadersV6, that is the exact converter that I have.


Evil666 has pretty much the same combo as you... Since your heads are somewhat ported, maybe you need some more fuel for the 44?

Maybe your SMC alky kit sucks? Ive had 3 kits from Steve on 1 of my cars, my pumps from him always take a dump.... My latest kit is the progressive kit with the external pump, its that nice kit where the progressive is delayed with boost, doenst really ramp with boost and the leaky pump is located ABOVE the tank so it has to work all the time....

Install Julios kit and i guarantee your car will run better than mine.

BW
 
Evil666 has pretty much the same combo as you... Since your heads are somewhat ported, maybe you need some more fuel for the 44?

Maybe your SMC alky kit sucks? Ive had 3 kits from Steve on 1 of my cars, my pumps from him always take a dump.... My latest kit is the progressive kit with the external pump, its that nice kit where the progressive is delayed with boost, doenst really ramp with boost and the leaky pump is located ABOVE the tank so it has to work all the time....

Install Julios kit and i guarantee your car will run better than mine.

BW

Ran a full bolt-on/tune LS1 tonight from a 40 kick to around 110 or so and was pulling pretty good. Judging from his 1/8th mph I should be running 91+ in the 1/8th mile the way I sit right now on 22psi. Left the timing the same. Gonna bump it all up a bit and up the alky some.
 
TE44, 009s, alky, power plate, Precision 2800 stall, ebay front mount- 11.4, 119mph.
 
Best I have done is 12.25 @ 108 (see sig.). But that was with the stock D5 converter.
 
I would HIGHLY recommend the Art Carr 16930 non lockup TC, and have it stalled where you want it. 2800-3000 is probably best as you dont want too much slip and you should be in plenty of boost by 3000 anyway...that is if they can stall it down to 2800. Mine was way overstalled. I could get to 3200rpm before I even built 1-2psi. No idea what the guy who owned the car before was thinking. He had 4.56 gears in it as well in a 7.5" rear end. He had the drivetrain set up like the thing had a 8000rpm redline or something. When I pulled out that TC and switched it in favor of a stock D5, it felt like I had lost 100hp. A TC can make that much difference. What kills me is I pulled it out hoping for better mileage....and it ABSOLUTELY should have gotten better mileage but didnt. Not even a 1mpg improvement. Another good thing about this TC is that its only 9.5", so you have far less rotational inertia to overcome. Its like throwing an aluminum flywheel in a manual trannied car. Not only does the high stall make the turbo spool faster, but the reduced rotational inertia helps the motor rev up much faster.

It sounds like your car may be rich or have a pre turbo exhaust leak. A TE44 should not go to 3200 RPM without spooling (unless it was a 4K stall converter, I guess). Making only 1-2 psi of boost at 3200 RPM doesn't make sense.

A N/L converter won't mph with a small turbo like a L/U converter will, even a heavy ass D5.

If you have ported heads and a cam, a loose converter and a big turbo can work. A TE44, not so much.

A loose N/L converter with a TE44/TA49 is not ideal for high mph, regardless of what your butt dyno is telling you.
 
TE44, 009s, alky, power plate, Precision 2800 stall, ebay front mount- 11.4, 119mph.

That is fast for a TE-44, congratulations! What other mods do you have on your car? Do you put it in drive and let it go or do you shift manually going down the track, and at what RPM do you shift? You must have some great 60' times.

Chuck
 
CPTE44, Stock Intercooler, TH400 3200 Stall, TT 93 Street Chip(zero adjustments, 43 psi) 20ish psi, zero boost launch, bad Walbro 340 Fuel pump netted me a best of 12.85@119.46 mph on a 2.24 60':redface:

I replaced the fuel pump last night so Im not seeing 8-14 degrees of KR anymore. I wonder what will happen when I launch off boost and slicks:eek:
 
PTE44/.85, MSD50's, THDP, V2FMIC. Bone stock motor.

11.67@117.5 in race trim/boost (114 race gas only) through the quarter on 16" ET Streets.

8.0@86 in pure street trim/boost, street tires, (no alky) through the eighth.
 
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