What to expect from new motor

qws2000

Active Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2012
I Have a 87 g/n and this winter I had a very experinced guy remove and rebuild my motor. I would like to hav peoples opinion on the build and what to expect from the car.. 1/4 mile? spool, whatever anyone can think of..
short block .20 over
forged pistons
polished crank, billet main caps blueprinted/balanced and milled
roller cam 218/212
water pump
ported front timmong cover
champion gn1 ported iron heads/beehive springs for rolr cam
harland sharp rollr rockers
champion ported intake manifold
throttle body 65mm and plenum
siemen flow matched 55lb injectors
t/a performance stainless steel headers
160 thermostat
200 amp alternator
ac delco coil pack
ac delco ignition module
heat O2 sensor
quad air modified computer for low impedance injectors
quad air chip 55#93 chip for alky
ATR 3.5 downpipe and test
turbo TA66 with custom 3.5" inlet bell and actuator
precision stretch intercooler
quad air fuel pump
aluminum alradco radiator
pete tomka air intake
razor alky kit
pro torque 9.5 conveter 2800-3200 stall
hayden tran cooler
aluminum shal trans pan w/ botm feed filter
full rebuild of the tranny
I might hav missed some stuff just way too much to write.. everything was bought brand new... also stock wheels with M/T Drag radails 235/60/15
I would love to know what the guys with a lot of experince think? good or bad.. how much power?.......thanks
 
He said he has drag radials...though 235's are the skinniest one I've heard of someone running. OP should get at least 255's or 275's if they don't rub. I've also never heard of Low ind. 55lb injectors. You sure that's right?
 
All depends on the boost.....

I'd say mid 10's with great traction and mid to upper 20's on the boost. Those tires are pretty small..... might fall to 11.0's with decent traction if everything else is working like it should..... boost in the mid 20's.

Drop the boost 5 lbs and you would loose another 1/2 a second or so (guess). i.e. 11.0's at 20-21 psi with great traction......11.50's with decent traction. I would define great traction 1.50 (60' time) or better. I would define decent traction 1.60-1.70 60' times. Obviously.... anything slower than 1.70..... you are sucking hind tit......

I too agree.... 55's are getting marginal once you get into the 10's. I'd go with some low Z 80's and a turbotweak wideband chip..... maybe even the SD wideband chip.
 
maybe they are 60lb, and I also have a wideband and scan master.. I think the chip is Red Armstrong.. Do you think I will crush those tires?
 
I would expect 11.0 without some dyno/track time and someone experienced tuning it. After that if there is some traction I'd expect faster than 10.50. It takes more than an engine and a bunch of parts to go fast.
 
that stall is tight for a ta-66 and the cam wont help that.. my ta-66 had a blast with a stall that could kiss 3800
 
Bison, I agree with you completely, I admit I have never made a pass down a 1/4 mile track before. The builder has already told me no more than 18lbs of boost till I understand how the car works.. I know there are guys on this forum that have so much info about these cars and what they can do. I am a newbee, just learning and want to enjoy the car
 
No Faster then 11.00 Flat, Up the injectors an turbo size. Put 22psi boost to it...Soildly in the 10's
 
yes sir its too small at least a 3400 to 3600 minimum

that turbo is good for high 650 to 700 hp btw

and the 235 tires are wayy to small. youll bloww them off at the line every single time
 
I've run a 12 flat with 235 BFGs and have cut a 1.7 with them. At any rate a larger tire would help and seat time.
 
I would expect 11.0 without some dyno/track time and someone experienced tuning it. After that if there is some traction I'd expect faster than 10.50. It takes more than an engine and a bunch of parts to go fast.

Well said Brian....
.
This combo with a good tune will take you 10.80+ as bison stated. The injector, converter and turbo are an excellent match……despite what has been stated
 
Your car and build is awesome, and it is up to you to set your goals for street or strip use. :)

But first you need to get to know your car better, and then you can work on the necessary tuning and tweaks for where you are going with it.

If the builder told you to run it at 18 psi for now, that is good advise as that will be a handful for you even on the street.

Like I tell my customers, these cars can hurt you or itself, so just creep up on the performance level you want until it, and you, are broken in, NOT broken! :biggrin:

It is great to see someone excited about their new car/build, but if you spent your $$$ with someone, he will look out for your best interest. That is where you will get your best info as he knows the car and can discuss your short and long term goals without spending un-nessary money.

Good luck with this, and be safe, not sorry. :)
 
Your car and build is awesome, and it is up to you to set your goals for street or strip use. :)

But first you need to get to know your car better, and then you can work on the necessary tuning and tweaks for where you are going with it.

If the builder told you to run it at 18 psi for now, that is good advise as that will be a handful for you even on the street.

Like I tell my customers, these cars can hurt you or itself, so just creep up on the performance level you want until it, and you, are broken in, NOT broken! :biggrin:

It is great to see someone excited about their new car/build, but if you spent your $$$ with someone, he will look out for your best interest. That is where you will get your best info as he knows the car and can discuss your short and long term goals without spending un-nessary money.

Good luck with this, and be safe, not sorry.
:)

there you go
plus one more.
 
I have similar stuff, GN1's, ported intake, 66mm turbo. I run a Weldon 1100 fuel pump and -8 feed -6 return to feed this thing. I also would recommend 80# injectors for the stock ECM and to make life easy, get the TT 6.1 chip, AEM wideband and powerlogger that uses the MAF for cruising on the street and locks onto a target A/F at WOT so you really don't have to tune it relative to minor adjustments to the boost level you are running- it's like a poor man's XFI. If you do nothing else, at least get the powerlogger and a wideband to see what is happening!!!
 
He said he has drag radials...though 235's are the skinniest one I've heard of someone running. OP should get at least 255's or 275's if they don't rub. I've also never heard of Low ind. 55lb injectors. You sure that's right?

Obviously you got into Buicks after the 60's came out...55's are good injectors
Edit just scanned this thread and dang I guess everybody forgot all the people that went mid 10's with 55's ...I went 128 mph with em.
 
I'll add a little to what Nick was saying..............BUY SOME GOOD BRAKES!!!!!! These car don't stop worth a darn with stock brakes. AND.........Have a qualified shop install a roll bar in your car, too. If you do not want a roll bar installed, sell the car, it can KILL you at that power level. If you have never driven a car with this much power, go VERY slow on turning it up. A friend just spun his car on the freway and hit someone and he has been driving nine and ten second cars on the street for 15 years. They can get away from you FAST! Fortunately no one was injured. Cars needed fixin' and ego was seriously injured, but no band-aids needed.
Also install good suspension parts. Bushings, shocks, swaybar, ect. Going fast is optional, stopping is mandatory.
Good luck with your new engine. It sounds like a good combo. (except for the above mentioned parts)
If your down pipe is an integeral wastegate version, you WILL have issues with the wastegate sticking on the ATR pipe. It can be fixed with the right bushing.
 
Top