What's needed to build a reliable 500-525 hp engine?

Do the fuel system and set it up for E-85....Get a good set of heads and the supporting bolt on parts you need to get the 500 hp....
 
MG8T7GN said:
........ Hopefully I'll see Nick M next week at Kirban's open house and talk about cooling systems. I'd like to get all the engine pieces from one vendor so everything works as a unit........................
Click to expand...

I will be flying out Wednesday to be sure I can avoid any possible travel delays, and look forward to meeting with you at Kirban's.

We have built many GN's in that performance range including one of my street cars, and until we meet I would like you think about one item that I favor which we can discuss, and that is a 4.1 engine build to easily meet the owner's performance goal!
 
MG8T7GN start a conversation with me and I can give you the details of what's required for 93 octane only combination and a few different options depending on how much money you want to sink into the engine itself. I don't really care if you buy anything from me or not. I will give straightforward info and tell you what to expect with what you choose


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Nick, I'll see ya on Saturday. Bison, Can we converse tomorrow when I can spend more tie going over things?
 
Call me tomorrow after 5 PM me for contact info.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I did 501 rwhp with my current sig and 375 rwhp or so with the same setup and a TA49 turbo, 80lb injectors, stock heads, and stock heads...... both on e85, both on a stock bottom end with good numbers and no knock.
 
I was gonna say the same thing as 1quickbuick. If he wants a fast and dependable car, why not build him a bad ass LS motor?
 
CuzzinOlaf said:
I did 501 rwhp with my current sig and 375 rwhp or so with the same setup and a TA49 turbo, 80lb injectors, stock heads, and stock heads...... both on e85, both on a stock bottom end with good numbers and no knock.
Click to expand...
I know , bringing an old post back to life lol .. what RPM was your 375 rwhp at ? what was your max torque & what rpm ? what converter were you running ( stall ) and was it locked up ( if it was an LU ) ?
 
CuzzinOlaf said:
I did 501 rwhp with my current sig and 375 rwhp or so with the same setup and a TA49 turbo, 80lb injectors, stock heads, and stock heads...... both on e85, both on a stock bottom end with good numbers and no knock.
Click to expand...

I'm interested to hear this myself... Cuzzin are you still out there?
 
Why are you set on a 93 octane 500 hp motor when u can add alky and not spend nearly as much as u would with just 93??
 
I know this is an old thread brought back to life, but since it has been brought back,It would be interesting to know what route was taken to reach the stated hp goals,and how it all turned out , IE: What mods were done ? HP Goals met ? motor still together ? etc.
Any updates ???
 
I would guess it fizzled (or went badly).


Bench racing with a specific nominal 'goal' like crank hp, boost level, or whatever usually never ends well.
 
It would be cool to know. But if your in that HP range with these cars you better know what the hell you are doing!
 
MG8T7GN said:
I have a $25-30k budget to work with including labor. His vision is a strong running street driven, pump gas car. He has no tuning/diagnosing/repairing skills. I at least talked him out of a 500 rwhp car. I'm not looking for using a stage or TA Perf block. A forged rotating aasembly, billet caps are ok. We have an engine shop where I work, along with a chassis dyno. I'll probably use a TT chip, since I'm happy with it in my GN. Can as cast stock heads meet my goals or will I need to go to aftermarket heads? I looked at PT&E's website for turbo suggestion, but didn't see a GN specific page. I'm planning on going with an updated SLIC and turbo and a 3" exhaust while keeping the stock exhaust manifolds. This car is going to the Dominican Republic in a few years when he retires, so reliability is a major concern since there probably aren't many- if anyone- who could work on the car there. Hopefully I'll see Nick M next week at Kirban's open house and talk about cooling systems. I'd like to get all the engine pieces from one vendor so everything works as a unit. I'll reads through the trans section here for someone to do the trans. The rear I can do myself.
Click to expand...
 
MG8T7GN said:
I have a $25-30k budget to work with including labor. His vision is a strong running street driven, pump gas car. He has no tuning/diagnosing/repairing skills. I at least talked him out of a 500 rwhp car. I'm not looking for using a stage or TA Perf block. A forged rotating aasembly, billet caps are ok. We have an engine shop where I work, along with a chassis dyno. I'll probably use a TT chip, since I'm happy with it in my GN. Can as cast stock heads meet my goals or will I need to go to aftermarket heads? I looked at PT&E's website for turbo suggestion, but didn't see a GN specific page. I'm planning on going with an updated SLIC and turbo and a 3" exhaust while keeping the stock exhaust manifolds. This car is going to the Dominican Republic in a few years when he retires, so reliability is a major concern since there probably aren't many- if anyone- who could work on the car there. Hopefully I'll see Nick M next week at Kirban's open house and talk about cooling systems. I'd like to get all the engine pieces from one vendor so everything works as a unit. I'll reads through the trans section here for someone to do the trans. The rear I can do myself.
Click to expand...
$30k ta motor done 88mil turbo
 
Very little is required. Build is in my sig. After five hundred 7 flat passes at 100 mph in the 1/8th we have the engine out for rings...and it's going right back into service again.
 
The owner sold his GN and ZR1 race car and moved to some beach front house in the islands. I was looking into doing a Caddy LSA supercharged crate motor since that would have gotten him to his horsepower goals and still have turn key, pump gas reliabillity. But, like most people who want something like this done and when they add up all the other things needed- trans, converter, drive shaft, rear end, suspension, it gets rather expensive very quickly at $150/hour and can gobble up hours upon hours of labor. Lot cheaper to buy one already done.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Turbo1dr
800+ Wheel HP - What bottom end is needed that's reliable?
2
Replies
20
Views
3K
TIMINATOR
TIMINATOR
B
LC2 in a 64-67 A body
Replies
0
Views
455
BaldMenace
B
S
ok, ecu gn inj duty cycle question
2
Replies
21
Views
2K
Sweet6
S
T
4.5 Stroker Engine F/S
2
Replies
21
Views
3K
Ledzeppac2
Ledzeppac2
B
1966 Special
Replies
18
Views
1K
TType85
TType85
Top