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Which Driveshaft ?

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dynoman

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Nov 30, 2009
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I would do the Dennys 3 inch. I have the 3.5 and its really close to the safety loop.
 
I would do the Dennys 3 inch. I have the 3.5 and its really close to the safety loop.
I was looking at that , it would put it 3/8" closer to the loop than the 2.75" stock shaft . How much room should i have for clearance to the loop ??
 
Can't say for sure but it's closer than I'd like it to be. Just something to think about.
 
If you go 3" it's close. Just make sure the rest of your driveline and bushings are up to par so it won't hit
 
While pulling the transmission I started thinking about my stock driveshaft and should I upgrade it . I was looking at these from Dennys Driveshafts . http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p21..._3_inch_hd_steel_driveshaft...to_replace.html
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p28..._3.5_inch_heavy_duty_driveshaft_1330_ser.html
Are these adequate for my build or do I need to go with the 1350 series ? Thanks , Sam
Sam if your factory GN shaft still has original never changed u-joints and is in good condition there is nothing to be gained IMO. I have seen many stock shafts work well into the tens and beyond, the stock driveshaft is a very durable piece......the splines in the oem yoke will start to twist once you can 60' better than low 1.50's......if the oem u-joints have been changed out at some point then you should upgrade the shaft......and if you do upgrade insist on a chrome moly slip yoke
 
Sam if your factory GN shaft still has original never changed u-joints and is in good condition there is nothing to be gained IMO. I have seen many stock shafts work well into the tens and beyond, the stock driveshaft is a very durable piece......the splines in the oem yoke will start to twist once you can 60' better than low 1.50's......if the oem u-joints have been changed out at some point then you should upgrade the shaft......and if you do upgrade insist on a chrome moly slip yoke
I'm not sure if the driveshaft is the original , as I am at least the 4th owner of the car . Most of the car has been upgraded , including full billet trans & converter , poly trans mount , HR boxed lower , double adj. upper control arms & rear sway bar all with poly bushings with grease fittings , & air bags . The only thing left is the driveshaft and axles . Now that I have my boost figured out , low 1.5's are easily with in reach ( I went 1.6,s with low boost & old converter ) . Thanks for the heads up on the slip yoke . Sam
 
I have had the Denny's 3'' HD driveshaft for over 12 years and has worked great from day 1. Never had a problem with it.

I wasn't sure how well the stock driveshaft would hold up after doing some upgrades and didn't want to take a chance on it being a weak link.

The same reason i installed Moser axles also.
 
I use PST, in Clearwater, FL. 727-442-1711
Great service from folks that know what's what on drive line parts. Prices are competitive, and delivery is fast.
Been doing business w/ them for 13 yrs.. They'll get the order on the T/Ls project, too.
 
I use PST, in Clearwater, FL. 727-442-1711
Great service from folks that know what's what on drive line parts. Prices are competitive, and delivery is fast.
Been doing business w/ them for 13 yrs.. They'll get the order on the T/Ls project, too.
What do they get for shipping on driveshafts? Dennys is 1 hr away & maybe could have it delivered by a friend who lives there.
 
I had a 3in made locally and stepped up to 1350 joints. I have a UMI loop and its close. After seeing a driveshaft let loose on a dyno and go through the wall I felt it was worth it to upgrade. Once you get to the 500whp or 1.50 60ft range it's probably a good idea to consider upgrading the shaft, joints and axles. At minimum install a driveshaft loop.
 
I had a 3in made locally and stepped up to 1350 joints. I have a UMI loop and its close. After seeing a driveshaft let loose on a dyno and go through the wall I felt it was worth it to upgrade. Once you get to the 500whp or 1.50 60ft range it's probably a good idea to consider upgrading the shaft, joints and axles. At minimum install a driveshaft loop.
Yup , loop is in . Running out of things to upgrade ..... and I don't need help with more ideas :D
 
The driveshaft itself is not the issue, like was stated in a post above, the yokes and U-joint are what you need to be concerned about.

I have seen 12 and 11 Sec. GN's that have twisted the tranny yoke and broken stock U-joints.

When you are at the 600 HP level, then a new, stronger driveshaft is in order as well as 1350 series U-joints and billet yokes.

Personally I have race "tested" the performance level of drive shafts and their components over the years by spitting out 3 of them on the track, not a good feeling!
 
What would be the next step up from stock for yokes? I have the solid stock sized U joints.
 
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