Squid4life
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
- Messages
- 6,275
PERFECT! Nick, I will be in touch! Curious if they are e85 capable and what they will support. I did not know you had these!
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SignUp Now!Good Lord! Thousands of your customers have problems with your product?Why is it that thousands of customers are able to resolve their problems with the help of our forum but you cannot?
Good Lord! Thousands of your customers have problems with your product?
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My fuel level sender is wacky, may be a stupid solution to it but I cant figure it out. First installed it, the level stayed at 10-11 gallons (digital dash btw). Hooked my old unit up, works fine. Pulled the tank down, float is hooked up, which I thought may have popped off. Pulled the assembly out of the tank and moved the float up and down and the gauge works fine. Put everything back together.....nope, still at 10-11 gallons. Pull the tank back down and apart, move the float up and down while out of the tank, works fine. Put the pumps back in, rotate the tank so the float has to move....stays on 10-11 no matter what. Pull it out again, move it up and down.....works fine. Put it back in and the gauge reads 14 gallons. then slowly drops to 10. Turn the key off, then back on......14 gallons and then slowly back to 10. Pull the tank again, pull the pumps out of the tank, move the float and the gauge works fine. Re-install the pumps into the tank and the gauge stays on 14. I think I got it......drive to the gas station and fill up. NOPE AGAIN......FUCK! Stays n 14.
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... and they all drink from the same dirty pool of water you do!...........................
Really Jack, this from a supporting vendor?
We, of all people on the board, are supposed to be professionals here, and help each other.
I caught that too. lol
Sometimes it's easier to see the picture from outside the frame.
It would appear from all the tests you did, the sender is bad. Since the old unit works like it should that eliminates all the wiring outside the tank and the gauge. During your bench testing the gauge was acting right, but after install the only new variable was that the sender was wet.
If you feel up to dropping the tank yet again... get a milk jug, cut the top off and run the same test with the sender submerged in gasoline. If it acts up in gasoline, you'll know that it's not supposed to be used in a wet environment :\
Personally, from what I've read, I think that's your problem. Years ago I was helping a tech troubleshoot a PWC fuel sending unit. It failed a bench test but worked fine submerged in fuel. After that day I only test fuel senders submerged.
We have reached out to these customers and they chose not to identify themselves or engage us in order to resolve their questionable issues.
Instead they chose to sit here on this forum and stir the pot. Its a sickness which has been allowed to fester on this forum for too long.
This thread was not created to obtain resolution.
I get the same readings in the tank with fuel or out of the tank dry.Way past full on the racetronics,and the factory one reads fine.I just don't want to keep dropping the tank to work on this POS sender or get out of town and F#CK up on me.Earl, we talked about that at work today actually. The difference would be to use a metal bucket that is grounded to the car. Thing is, does the sending unit get 12v and then runs through the "rheostat" type sender, or does this go to negative? Without knowing the product or having it back in my hands, I cant say how to obtain this info without Racetronix answering the simple questions. If it's somehow going to negative through the fuel and then through the ground strap on the tank, I would think it's losing voltage somehow through the 12v positive "leaking" which may cause the inaccurate readings. Basically completely bypassing the sender all together and only reading resistance through the fuel. I don't know. I've asked these questions, but only response is "go to the support forum" which has got me know where so far with both this issue and the leaky filter. This fuel pump issue has taken my car out of service this entire season.
Earl, we talked about that at work today actually. The difference would be to use a metal bucket that is grounded to the car. Thing is, does the sending unit get 12v and then runs through the "rheostat" type sender, or does this go to negative? Without knowing the product or having it back in my hands, I cant say how to obtain this info without Racetronix answering the simple questions. If it's somehow going to negative through the fuel and then through the ground strap on the tank, I would think it's losing voltage somehow through the 12v positive "leaking" which may cause the inaccurate readings. Basically completely bypassing the sender all together and only reading resistance through the fuel. I don't know. I've asked these questions, but only response is "go to the support forum" which has got me know where so far with both this issue and the leaky filter. This fuel pump issue has taken my car out of service this entire season.
I get the same readings in the tank with fuel or out of the tank dry.Way past full on the racetronics,and the factory one reads fine.I just don't want to keep dropping the tank to work on this POS sender or get out of town and F#CK up on me.
That is what I was thinking happened to me on a 65 Buick i just built the arm wasnt moving freely the entire lengthQuestion for ya. Something that I have thought of and maybe a mistake of mine.....Did you install the float in the correct position? Meaning, if it is installed 180 degrees in the wrong direction, the pitch of the float rod will make the float sit lower than at the factory "static" position. In turn, making the sender read higher than it's supposed to. I may have done this on mine, I will verify once I get the hanger back out again.
Mine is right.The float should kick back toward the front of the tank meaning the bend in the rod and float should be towards the lines out of the top.Look at the pics on their site at the pictures of the units.How much fuel was in the tank when your readings were between 10 and 14 gallons.and then how much fuel did it take to fill it up when it still read 14 gallons?I have tested my whole unit and it is the sender which is 15.00,I just don't want to drop the tank every 1000 miles or so if it is going to continue to be a problem.I will only F#ck with something for so long before I move on to a different product and when you pay good money for something there should be no hassle to get it swapped.If I had bought a sender from Auto Zone,Napa,Red,Highway Stars etc.I could return it with no questions asked and not spend my time troubleshooting a unit I paid for but didn't build.But anyway my wife just got me a big ole glass of that dirty pool water we all drink out of so hope this helps.Question for ya. Something that I have thought of and maybe a mistake of mine.....Did you install the float in the correct position? Meaning, if it is installed 180 degrees in the wrong direction, the pitch of the float rod will make the float sit lower than at the factory "static" position. In turn, making the sender read higher than it's supposed to. I may have done this on mine, I will verify once I get the hanger back out again.