Squid4life
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
- Messages
- 6,275
PERFECT! Nick, I will be in touch! Curious if they are e85 capable and what they will support. I did not know you had these!
Who to use besides Racetronix?
- Thread starter jdpolzin
- Start date
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MeanBuicks
Scaring the neighbors!
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
- Messages
- 3,658
Good Lord! Thousands of your customers have problems with your product?
That's reason enough for me not to even consider doing business with you. Your conduct here is another. Good luck going forward.
Good Lord! Thousands of your customers have problems with your product?
.
I caught that too. lol
Sometimes it's easier to see the picture from outside the frame.
It would appear from all the tests you did, the sender is bad. Since the old unit works like it should that eliminates all the wiring outside the tank and the gauge. During your bench testing the gauge was acting right, but after install the only new variable was that the sender was wet.
If you feel up to dropping the tank yet again... get a milk jug, cut the top off and run the same test with the sender submerged in gasoline. If it acts up in gasoline, you'll know that it's not supposed to be used in a wet environment :\
Personally, from what I've read, I think that's your problem. Years ago I was helping a tech troubleshoot a PWC fuel sending unit. It failed a bench test but worked fine submerged in fuel. After that day I only test fuel senders submerged.
- Joined
- May 26, 2001
- Messages
- 9,208
Really Jack, this from a supporting vendor?
We, of all people on the board, are supposed to be professionals here, and help each other.
The comment "drinking from the same dirty pool of water" got me. Very unprofessional especially from a vendor and you expect folks on this forum to buy your parts after reading your comments? Shame on them if they do.
I have never used this vendor and now I know I never will!
I have never used this vendor and now I know I never will!
Racetronix
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 1, 2001
- Messages
- 1,590
Really Jack, this from a supporting vendor?
We, of all people on the board, are supposed to be professionals here, and help each other.
Well isn't that the the pot calling the kettle black?
You obviously prefer to be blind to what is going on here as long as you can hijack a feedback thread relating to another vendor and use it to promote your products.
As a staff member you should either maintain your neutrality and moderate or stick your nose out of Racetronix business. Stop sitting on the fence as you so ofter do and poke sticks at other vendors.
We have reached out to these customers and they chose not to identify themselves or engage us in order to resolve their questionable issues.
Instead they chose to sit here on this forum and stir the pot. Its a sickness which has been allowed to fester on this forum for too long.
This thread was not created to obtain resolution.
The dirty water comment is in reference to buying into other people's lies but perhaps you missed that point!!!
Ok Racetronix, you say you have reached out to help me? Why weren't my questions replied to on your forum until I posted this last night? You call me names, go on and on here like I have not tried to jump through your hoops to get this resolved and now have banned me from your forum.
What in my first post isn't the truth? Are you ever going to actually try to solve this problem? Or is it just something that is too much time and too difficult to do since you already have my money?
You tell me, what is wrong with my sending unit? I've asked questions, even talked to you on the phone about this and never get an answer, but yet time keeps ticking away. Back up your products. I'm an electrician by trade, I know what these systems work. I've ruled out the car and it's wiring simply by installing my old sending unit. How can I go through any of your test procedures when it works perfectly fine out of the tank? It's your product, you tell me.
What in my first post isn't the truth? Are you ever going to actually try to solve this problem? Or is it just something that is too much time and too difficult to do since you already have my money?
You tell me, what is wrong with my sending unit? I've asked questions, even talked to you on the phone about this and never get an answer, but yet time keeps ticking away. Back up your products. I'm an electrician by trade, I know what these systems work. I've ruled out the car and it's wiring simply by installing my old sending unit. How can I go through any of your test procedures when it works perfectly fine out of the tank? It's your product, you tell me.
You can generalize your statements all you want, but these statements and these sort of actions are exactly why I posted this thread in the first place. This is how you treat your customers! This is not how you should treat your customers. If I'm drinking "dirty water" as you state, where did the "dirty water" originate? Not from me, I paid you, your product doesn't work as described. I think your trying to sell dirty bottles of water and hoping other people will drink it.
You may be able to save some face by simply answering the questions I have asked. That's all it takes. If the unit is in fact bad, replace it. Much easier.
You may be able to save some face by simply answering the questions I have asked. That's all it takes. If the unit is in fact bad, replace it. Much easier.
Earl, we talked about that at work today actually. The difference would be to use a metal bucket that is grounded to the car. Thing is, does the sending unit get 12v and then runs through the "rheostat" type sender, or does this go to negative? Without knowing the product or having it back in my hands, I cant say how to obtain this info without Racetronix answering the simple questions. If it's somehow going to negative through the fuel and then through the ground strap on the tank, I would think it's losing voltage somehow through the 12v positive "leaking" which may cause the inaccurate readings. Basically completely bypassing the sender all together and only reading resistance through the fuel. I don't know. I've asked these questions, but only response is "go to the support forum" which has got me know where so far with both this issue and the leaky filter. This fuel pump issue has taken my car out of service this entire season.
Another idea, is the float in backwards? I asked this question too. If the float is in backwards, I would think it would be reading high, or at least changing what its reading after driving and lowering the fuel level. What if the float just simply doesn't float?
Yes Jack, this thread, as well as others I posted in your forum were all created to make a resolution. I want the product that you sold me to work or the product needs to be replaced. Pretty damn simple.
I get the same readings in the tank with fuel or out of the tank dry.Way past full on the racetronics,and the factory one reads fine.I just don't want to keep dropping the tank to work on this POS sender or get out of town and F#CK up on me.
Another note, I just went out to test the car with the ground strap pulled off the tank, it didn't help. BUT, I just thought of something else. If there is a "leak" in voltage through the fuel, would this also cause the pumps to not receive full voltage?
Have you put a meter on it t check resistance between the signal wire and the metal on the sender? Maybe the resistance is right, but not the right range. Or, maybe it's just stuck at one value.
I'm going to be hooking mine up to my FAST dash, so the range doesn't affect me. But I don't want to be fighting this with 15 gallons of fuel in the tank.
I'm going to be hooking mine up to my FAST dash, so the range doesn't affect me. But I don't want to be fighting this with 15 gallons of fuel in the tank.
Yes, and outside the tank it works perfect. Once it's in the gas, it sticks at 14 gallons.
I will update that I am now UNBANNED on Racetronix' site and also got some good info as a starting point to trouble shoot. It's a pain but I also have no problem trying to help find the issue. I can understand that there are a lot of dumb ass people in this world and it's not smart to just send out free replacement parts at free will. Good communication equals good business. I'll continue to update this thread. Not to flame, sway, or make an opinionated impression on anyone, just to show communication and hopefully resolution that we can all learn something from as vendors and as customers.
I will update that I am now UNBANNED on Racetronix' site and also got some good info as a starting point to trouble shoot. It's a pain but I also have no problem trying to help find the issue. I can understand that there are a lot of dumb ass people in this world and it's not smart to just send out free replacement parts at free will. Good communication equals good business. I'll continue to update this thread. Not to flame, sway, or make an opinionated impression on anyone, just to show communication and hopefully resolution that we can all learn something from as vendors and as customers.
On the stock setup it's a shitty ground through the metal arm that goes through an adjustable resistor and on to the gauge. On my car I soldered a lead from ground to the arm and now my gauge responds so fast I can damn near see fuel slosh.
Since I'm not running fancy new 'better' stuff I can't say if your racetronix sender is the same or not. grounding the milk jug shouldn't matter though. (in my PWC example the tank was plastic in a 'glass body)
Question for ya. Something that I have thought of and maybe a mistake of mine.....Did you install the float in the correct position? Meaning, if it is installed 180 degrees in the wrong direction, the pitch of the float rod will make the float sit lower than at the factory "static" position. In turn, making the sender read higher than it's supposed to. I may have done this on mine, I will verify once I get the hanger back out again.
BobbyBuick
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
- Messages
- 2,209
That is what I was thinking happened to me on a 65 Buick i just built the arm wasnt moving freely the entire length
Mine is right.The float should kick back toward the front of the tank meaning the bend in the rod and float should be towards the lines out of the top.Look at the pics on their site at the pictures of the units.How much fuel was in the tank when your readings were between 10 and 14 gallons.and then how much fuel did it take to fill it up when it still read 14 gallons?I have tested my whole unit and it is the sender which is 15.00,I just don't want to drop the tank every 1000 miles or so if it is going to continue to be a problem.I will only F#ck with something for so long before I move on to a different product and when you pay good money for something there should be no hassle to get it swapped.If I had bought a sender from Auto Zone,Napa,Red,Highway Stars etc.I could return it with no questions asked and not spend my time troubleshooting a unit I paid for but didn't build.But anyway my wife just got me a big ole glass of that dirty pool water we all drink out of so hope this helps.
