So what's the point you're trying to make? QUOTE]
What we been saying all along throw your sim in the garbage, cause your feeding it info and its spitting out crap. you get my point now!!!
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SignUp Now!So what's the point you're trying to make? QUOTE]
What we been saying all along throw your sim in the garbage, cause your feeding it info and its spitting out crap. you get my point now!!!
This is the difficult part of pinning down what the stall is with this TC.This way works ONLY if the stall is higher than the transmissions actual rpm drop.
With the ratios a turbo 400 has what would the shift drop to if it shifted at 7000 and it had a lockup convertor?
If you shift at 7000 and it drops to 6600 i would say the TRUE stall is 6600.
A convertor someone calls a 3200, this is the stall i would expect at 0 #s of boost and where it flashes to upon snapping the throttle open.
That same convertor once it comes into full power goes to 5800.
I would say this is a 5800 rpm convertor.
I don't understand. If I take a car with a stock TC and shift it at 4800 rpm and it drops 1000 rpm, does that mean the stall is 3800 rpm?
Yes, I have. It's close to .85-.95:1, exhaust to intake.
Yes. I understand that about the gear changes. True flash stall is new to me, though. I'll have to think about that one. How does that work when you shift at different rpm levels and the amount of drop is different? That's starting to tie in the power curve more, isn't it? And how do you pick what shift rpm to use to determine a true flash stall rpm number since the drop can be different if you pick to shift at say 7000 rpm versus 7400 rpm? Or does it always fall to around a same number? I watch for consistencies like that in the datalogs and I don't recall the shifts always falling to a specific rpm no matter what the shift rpm was.Otto is right. This is what most will call the true flash stall of the converter.
Talking stall's on turbo combinations would be another 20 page thread.
You have the initial flash stall which is where the engine flashes to at the hit of the throttle and the boost reads 0-1#. Then you have the true flash stall which is where the rpm drops to on the gear changes.
Otto made another good point about the gear ratio's. Just the change from a T-400 to a glide will change the rpm drop as well because the amount of ratio change is different. A t-400 will drop less on the gear change than a glide.
Otto is right. This is what most will call the true flash stall of the converter.
Talking stall's on turbo combinations would be another 20 page thread.
You have the initial flash stall which is where the engine flashes to at the hit of the throttle and the boost reads 0-1#. Then you have the true flash stall which is where the rpm drops to on the gear changes.
Otto made another good point about the gear ratio's. Just the change from a T-400 to a glide will change the rpm drop as well because the amount of ratio change is different. A t-400 will drop less on the gear change than a glide.
Yes. I understand that about the gear changes. True flash stall is new to me, though. I'll have to think about that one. How does that work when you shift at different rpm levels and the amount of drop is different? That's starting to tie in the power curve more, isn't it? And how do you pick what shift rpm to use to determine a true flash stall rpm number since the drop can be different if you pick to shift at say 7000 rpm versus 7400 rpm? Or does it always fall to around a same number?
Well, I'd probably be eager to do that if I hadn't already gone 8s with 1.835/1.5 valved heads after having used the sim exclusively to come up with all the specifications for this engine. Get it, Tony?So what's the point you're trying to make? QUOTE]
What we been saying all along throw your sim in the garbage, cause your feeding it info and its spitting out crap. you get my point now!!!
This is the difficult part of pinning down what the stall is with this TC.
At WOT (no nitrous), on the transbrake, I don't care how long you sit on the throttle, the rpm will stay at 3200 rpm and the boost will not build. Without nitrous in the picture, this turbo will not begin to spool until the engine is at a high enough rpm to supply the needed exhaust energy to spool it. That's around 6500 or 6750 rpm, if I remember right.
When the nitrous first hits, the stall jumps to about 4300 rpm where it sits for awhile as the turbine speed catches up. After the turbine speed catches up the rpm ramps up with boost pressure. How high it goes depends on the tuning of the nitrous system. Without the AB, the rpm will settle at around 5300 rpm. With the AB, rpm rises to ? I haven't had the balls to find out where the rpm stops with the present nitrous setup, but it's over 6200 rpm. I can't remember what the boost was at that point, I know it's in one of my other threads, but I do know it's much more boost than I would ever look to launch the car with.
Once the rpm spikes from the nitrous and from the turnoff point of the nitrous, the rpm will slowly drop to about 5400 rpm and 175-180 kPa Map. The only reason it drops is because the BOV and wastegate are causing that. If I clamped the wastegate and BOV shut, the rpm would continue to rise after nitrous shut off and until I got out of the throttle, if I remember correctly. I believe that was how I had the boost control systems setup during the videos showing the anti lag testing.
So you're probably right about this TC stalling way up there in the 6000s. The problem is, if one were to tighten it up, spool time would increase, which is what I don't want, and the target launch rpm would become a moving target for the converter tech. At least now, the rpm and boost can overshoot and I can control it down to a launch target. I would rather have that than strain the powertrain to inch up to the target rpm and boost.
Less than 31. I think. Exhaust back pressure might start to catch up to intake pressure as boost climbs to higher levels. Haven't tested at 31 psi.Ok,in laymens terms,,so your running 31 psi,so your exhaust back pressure is?
Well, I'd probably be eager to do that if I hadn't already gone 8s with 1.835/1.5 valved heads after having used the sim exclusively to come up with all the specifications for this engine. Get it, Tony?
No i dont... cause it told you feed more nitrous to your NC convertor and it will work remember ? it was "VERY CLEAR" did you forget that you have a 91 turbo at 31# of boost with 400hp of nitrous running on alcohol feeding them heads
Well then guess what, Tony. I'm in the 50% that doesn't understand. So why don't you just string me up for it and beat me with a stick. Would that make you happy?Whats amazing is that less than 50% of the racing world understands this.
Yes. I understand that about the gear changes. True flash stall is new to me, though. I'll have to think about that one. How does that work when you shift at different rpm levels and the amount of drop is different? That's starting to tie in the power curve more, isn't it? And how do you pick what shift rpm to use to determine a true flash stall rpm number since the drop can be different if you pick to shift at say 7000 rpm versus 7400 rpm? Or does it always fall to around a same number?
Hmmm. Maybe Tony has time to explain it to me.Talking stall's on turbo combinations would be another 20 page thread.
I'm not sure where the power peak is, but I see little difference in the timeslip shifting from 6700 or 7800 rpm. What does that mean? I suspect that means the power band is pretty flat between there.You would want to figure out where your engine peaks power and make this your shift point for best ET and use this for reference.
I wouldnt think you would have a engine tha makes power to 7000 and shift it a 6500 IF you were going for best ET.
LOL
Funny you should bring that up. My ecm firmware has been recently upgraded and I think I saw something about a speed sensor input. I'll check it out. Hmmm. I may install that DSS sooner than I thought.
I was leaning towards the same conclusion. Thanks for backing that up.This is the perfect example of why stall ratings for turbo cars are basically useless. You can make it stall whatever you want on the transbrake because the engine just continues to build torque as boost increases. The nitrous just throws another large torque builder into the mix.
This is the battle you will have with this combo. Chances are a tighter converter may slow the car's e.t down unless you leave the nitrous on for a portion of the run.
I'm not sure where the power peak is, but I see little difference in the timeslip shifting from 6700 or 7800 rpm. What does that mean?
Well then guess what, Tony. I'm in the 50% that doesn't understand. So why don't you just string me up for it and beat me with a stick. Would that make you happy?