Best option for rolling the Rear Fender (Quarter) lip in.

1

1987T

Looking for 10's
Joined
Dec 5, 2011
Like the title says whats the best option to roll the lip and not bend the quarter all to heck and back?

I want to clear a 28x10.5x15 slick on a 10" Wide wheel. I know it fits as many on this forum have them. BUT I also know the lips got to be rolled or Ill tear up the side of the tire :rolleyes:
I know eastwood tools sells a fancy tool but the dang thing is $400 for a 1 time use thats a bit much. One of my buddies said its not that great of a tool as he used one at a tire shop a few times.

He suggested a Wood Baseball bat between the tire and the Lip then roll the car forward and back word to force it up? :eek::confused:

My other issue is a I want to roll the steel and the Stainless trim as well :eek: :cool:

Any suggestions or options to do this would be great!

Thanks for the info and help in advance also
 
heres a baseball bat/pipe trick fail

[video=youtube_share;1LdDAa6TNWE]http://youtu.be/1LdDAa6TNWE[/video]
 
Do a search for fender roller and there's one floating around that you can rent. I believe it's in Fla right now.
 
9secWH1 said:
heres a baseball bat/pipe trick fail

[video=youtube_share;1LdDAa6TNWE]http://youtu.be/1LdDAa6TNWE[/video]
Click to expand...

Funny thing is there are 2 others that are shown here after it that did ok. Id say Rot was the issues. Still not sure thats the best bet Im working on a LOW LOW mile car here I dont want to mess it up. One of my other buddies said today to just cut the lip in 4 or 5 spots and roll it with a rubber mallet seems everyone has an idea but what really works well without braking the bank??
 
cuda6pak said:
I bought this tool - http://www.ebay.com/itm/EASTWOOD-FE..._Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr&hash=item20c1e9ddcd

But it definitely needs something else in addition to the job because it wont bend that fender + trim worth anything....
Click to expand...

Ya I looked at that on eastwoods site and I talked to a body guy about it. He said for that tool to work you would need to slice the edge of the lip in 5-6" Sections and roll them each seprate till they are flush. They had one at his shop and he said " it works great on Import crap and some newer Cars with really thin steel"

Not sure what to do the things dont fit with these tires on them anyway I have a 1/4" Spacer with aluminum drums, in there now and they still hit the frame by at least another 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch. So Id have to have some big spacers and then no stud to bolt to (Read Unsafe in my book) So Ill most likely be going to a smaller tire :( Sucks these slicks are brand freaking new! Ill still have to roll the lip but maybe not as much?
 
you can buy the bolt on spacers,that bolt to hub then wheel bolts on. not sure what sizes they come in, but they are safe
 
BIGPSI said:
you can buy the bolt on spacers,that bolt to hub then wheel bolts on. not sure what sizes they come in, but they are safe
Click to expand...
Ya I was looking at them Im just not sure I want my tires haning that far off the side of the car. It looks very 80's lol
 
Ya Im thinking thats going to have to happen. Funny thing is they fit great other than the rolling of the lip thing. There was a spacer on the Vector wheels I took off so maybe the studs will be ok till I change the axles out for some Mosiers :)
 
GNXwannabe what size tire/wheel combo you running on the back with the rolled lips?
 
You won't be able to sit the car down on a 10.5 tire with just a rolled lip. You can get it under there but you'll have to run air bags to keep the body off the tire.

I've used several methods with good results. The fender roller tool works IF you take your time and are patient. It's not quite as easy as they make it sound but it does make it uniform vs some other methods. I rolled the fender along with the trim on my low mileage GN with excellent results. The trick is to section the lip in several areas and roll just a little at a time using a heat gun to keep from cracking the paint. I've got a rolling tool used just a couple of times I'd make you a deal on if you're interested.

A lot more involved but another trick is to cut the lip almost flush with the quarter panel and then spot weld an 1/8" piece of brake line around the perimeter. Some duraglass and a little paint work and it looks factory.
 
Bent6 said:
You won't be able to sit the car down on a 10.5 tire with just a rolled lip. You can get it under there but you'll have to run air bags to keep the body off the tire.

I've used several methods with good results. The fender roller tool works IF you take your time and are patient. It's not quite as easy as they make it sound but it does make it uniform vs some other methods. I rolled the fender along with the trim on my low mileage GN with excellent results. The trick is to section the lip in several areas and roll just a little at a time using a heat gun to keep from cracking the paint. I've got a rolling tool used just a couple of times I'd make you a deal on if you're interested.

A lot more involved but another trick is to cut the lip almost flush with the quarter panel and then spot weld an 1/8" piece of brake line around the perimeter. Some duraglass and a little paint work and it looks factory.
Click to expand...

This is a low mile car so Im trying to do as little as I can in the form of Cutting but the Body shop guy down the road from me said that the Cutting ever 6-8" Method is what he has found to work the best and get the tightest results in his shop. He has done some really nice Factory style show/street cars around our area. He looked at my car with one tire on and he said Ill have to cut the tops of the Screws that hold the molding on off (Part that is sticking threw the back) then use a rubber mallet to slowly flatten/Roll them up even with the side of the quarter. Sounds kinda easy he said stay the hell away from the Bat idea as if any thing goes off your done and have a mess.

How much do you want for the roller?? Thanks
 
Mine has less than 20k on it so I was the same way about cutting on it. The trim screws issue will depend on how tight you want to roll the lip to the quarter. Roll the lip first and then go back and put the trim on and roll it. You don't have to cut the trim as it will stretch if you're patient with the process. Regardless of how you do it, be sure to use a heat gun - especially on the trim - to keep the paint from chipping. I totally agree with staying away from the good 'ole boy bat method - that's asking for a buckled quarter panel.

I'd sell the roller tool for $175 - it's like new.
 
Bent6 said:
Mine has less than 20k on it so I was the same way about cutting on it. The trim screws issue will depend on how tight you want to roll the lip to the quarter. Roll the lip first and then go back and put the trim on and roll it. You don't have to cut the trim as it will stretch if you're patient with the process. Regardless of how you do it, be sure to use a heat gun - especially on the trim - to keep the paint from chipping. I totally agree with staying away from the good 'ole boy bat method - that's asking for a buckled quarter panel.

I'd sell the roller tool for $175 - it's like new.
Click to expand...

OK Ill let ya know have to get the wife to agree its a good idea if you ya know what I mean ;)
 
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