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Bigger oil pan needed?? Block oiling mod.

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Tim Cucci

Member
Joined
May 24, 2001
Messages
346
My 109 block has been modified with the larger 2/3 oil holes in the mains. I understand that a HV oil pump should be used for this application, a machinist told me that I should have a Deep Oil Pan also. I have researched several threads, articles, engine tips but I can't see where I need a larger pan.

My engine is currently ready to be put back together standard bottom end. 10/10 stock crank, ARP studs and rod bolts, Stock Pistons, Rev X Roller Cam, P/P iron heads, Speed Pro 6-7120CH rod bearings. Bolt ons such as TA49, THDP, SMC Alky, V4 IC.

Do I really need a deep pan??? Oh Yea The main bearing shell oil holes are drilled to 5/16" and the main oil holes are drilled to 3/8". Is 5/16 the correct drill size for the bearings. ???

Thanks
 
All of those mods to the oiling holes really don't do much for you. (especially at your performance level, IMO) The best oiling mods to the block are the radiusing of the internal galleries behind the gallery plugs on the front of the block, and the oil feed passage for the oil pick-up tube. The stock (completely) oiling system has run 9 sec. passes. I spend time radiusing the galleries in the block and timing cover. It takes a small grinder (like a dremel) and good tool control. I would run a stock oil pump, NOT a high volume. What are you bearing clearances? They should be less than .002", with a target of .0017". Tap the gallery plugs in the front of the block and install pipe plugs (TA performance has them) The oil pump clearances need to be real tight, too. The thrust clearance should be .0005" to .0015". TA sells oil pump set-up shims, too. The timing cover needs to be set-up and "ported" carefully. High volume oil pumps only are needed if the bearing clearances are too loose. If interested, I can post pictures of the radiusing of the block and timing cover passages.
RJC sells a deep oil pan, but I really don't think that you "need" one. For racing, a deep pan helps, by lowering the oil level away from the crank, not so you run more oil.
 
Mains are already drilled. All bearing clearances will be less than .002 per all Mic. readings that I have verified. Crank has not been installed and gauged yet. Clearances will be tight. Will the stock oil pump be sufficient with the Mains being drilled? If so I would rather use the stock oil pump. I have already done some smoothing to the timing cover and oil pump housing ports per the Powersource Book. Yes, I would like to see the Pics of the block if you have time.

I really did not think I needed another pan but I figured I would put it up for suggestions.

Thanks
 
IMO (which probably isn't worth much), the oil flow is a function of both the bearing clearances and the main passage size. If you had both big clearances and drilled mains, then maybe you'd need the high vol pump. If it's only one or the other, the std pump is probably fine. I've got drilled mains (tho only 5/16", not 3/8"), clearances about 0.002", and a stock size pump. I've got great oil pressure and the last time I checked the mains looked great.

John
 
Your bearing clearances will determine you're oil flow requirements. As long as the clearanced are kept tight as you indicate they will, you will be fine with a standard pump.

Think of it this way. If you put your garden nozzle (your bearing clearance) at the end of a 1" pipe (standard size main oil passages) you're only going to get as much flow as the nozzle will allow. Now if you took that same nozzle and put it at the end of a 6" pipe (drilled oil passages) you're still only going to get as much as that nozzle allowed in the first test.
 
Stick with your std oil pump. Be SURE to clearance the gears VERY tight. I like .0005-.0015" (that's half to one and a half thousanths) It takes alot of time to do it right. Don't expect to have it done in a half hour.;) (30 minutes, maybe.......half hour, no way.):D
 
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