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Bob Bailey ignition module

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Have a question and want to make sure that I am reading the instructions correctly!!! On the TR6, when setting up the 2-step (orange wire) do you run a hotwire/switch that lead?
 
here's a pic of mine remotely mounted on the driver fender, makes things a lot easier when adjusting switches and checking the LED's instead of leaning over a hot engine. im running the wastespark coilpack.
I like that I think I might steal your idea.
Right now mine is mounted in the stock location with a Champion intake and Champion fuel rails under it. It's a tight fit, and it looks like my wiper transmission could hit it.
 
Have a question and want to make sure that I am reading the instructions correctly!!! On the TR6, when setting up the 2-step (orange wire) do you run a hotwire/switch that lead?
I thought the instructions said ground switch
 
I like that I think I might steal your idea.
Right now mine is mounted in the stock location with a Champion intake and Champion fuel rails under it. It's a tight fit, and it looks like my wiper transmission could hit it.

bob can make you the coil pack extension harness, i had to call john spina for the ccci extension harness, just mention its for bob baileys tr6 he will know what your taking about. Mine is 48"


It said add voltage...... Just want to verify and be safe!

yes feed the orange wire 12v and it will activate the 2step
 
you can use the 2-step with a grounding input.

Mode6 reverses the activation sense of the input

Config3 will supply "pullup voltage" if you are using just a plain switch to ground.

Bob
 
TurboBob said:
you can use the 2-step with a grounding input.

Mode6 reverses the activation sense of the input

Config3 will supply "pullup voltage" if you are using just a plain switch to ground.

Bob

Confused!! So do we use a switch to ground the orange wire or do run a 12v to it.
 
well, it can be controlled either way.

how do you want to control it?

the default mode is to apply voltage to engage the 2-step.

If you want to use a switch to ground to engage the 2-step, then turn on Mode 6 and Cfg 3.


Your choice..

Bob
 
I run AC R42TS and have for years with the stock coil set up we run .32 Gap and 30-32psi of boost no issues. So how would .3 of a gap increase really help for this kind of coin?
Not knocking the product bob just asking the question as to what are my benifits to up grading to this set up other than the 2step ? I know if you buck up and go coil near plug you should be able to run more gap and hence make more power but you can also go to a Denzo iridium plug and get .38- .40 gap as Mike Moran and Kurt Urban have both done in the past for about $100
Again Just looking for the info I think this is a super cool idea I just cant get my self to shell out the money for it till I under stand the true benefits of it.
thanks and sorry if I miff some off on here now.
 
I run AC R42TS and have for years with the stock coil set up we run .32 Gap and 30-32psi of boost no issues. So how would .3 of a gap increase really help for this kind of coin?
Not knocking the product bob just asking the question as to what are my benifits to up grading to this set up other than the 2step ? I know if you buck up and go coil near plug you should be able to run more gap and hence make more power but you can also go to a Denzo iridium plug and get .38- .40 gap as Mike Moran and Kurt Urban have both done in the past for about $100
Again Just looking for the info I think this is a super cool idea I just cant get my self to shell out the money for it till I under stand the true benefits of it.
thanks and sorry if I miff some off on here now.


I tried the denso iridium plugs a few yrs ago. They actually made the car run a tad better with the same gap as the autolites. But they only lasted about 200 miles then they wouldn't fire thru 15-16 psi of boost. I swapped out everything and no luck on fixing the busting out. I finally just dropped in a set of 23's and ran like a scolded dog.
 
My understanding is that the iridium plugs will not work well with our waste spark ignition, but if you move to Bob's LS1 CNP setup then you can use them and get the benefits (longevity and ability to fire under higher pressures).

I tried the denso iridium plugs a few yrs ago. They actually made the car run a tad better with the same gap as the autolites. But they only lasted about 200 miles then they wouldn't fire thru 15-16 psi of boost. I swapped out everything and no luck on fixing the busting out. I finally just dropped in a set of 23's and ran like a scolded dog.
 
I run AC R42TS and have for years with the stock coil set up we run .32 Gap and 30-32psi of boost no issues. So how would .3 of a gap increase really help for this kind of coin?
Not knocking the product bob just asking the question as to what are my benifits to up grading to this set up other than the 2step ? I know if you buck up and go coil near plug you should be able to run more gap and hence make more power but you can also go to a Denzo iridium plug and get .38- .40 gap as Mike Moran and Kurt Urban have both done in the past for about $100
Again Just looking for the info I think this is a super cool idea I just cant get my self to shell out the money for it till I under stand the true benefits of it.
thanks and sorry if I miff some off on here now.



Reasonable questions, here are some thoughts.

a .032 gap is pretty wide for the stock ignition, especially at high boost and high mass flow. I don't know the rest of your setup, but its possible you are leaving some power on the table.

but, the system has some other advantages beyond the higher ignition energy.

The 2-step helps make the launch more consistent, and for those guys running alcohol it prevents hitting the rev limiter in the ECM (which often breaks parts).

The system provides a lot more ignition energy, especially at higher RPM. The ignition terminals are a better design the the stock GN ones and don't
break down and carbon-track as well as having higher output.

The system has built in diagnostics, so sensor issues can be diagnosed quickly and easily. There are LEDs for the cam and crank sensor inputs so you can easily check if
the sensors are working. The CAM led doubles as a sensor "setting tool". Detected trouble codes are blinked on an LED, and shown on the tach.

It also has cam sensor check mode, so you can see the cam sensor adjustment on the tachometer and see if its moving around (loose sensor or timing chain)

It has a mode for setting/checking the base timing, so you can (with a timing light) verify the balancer trigger is in the right spot.

Thats off the top of my head, there are probably more.

We are planning to build a pressure chamber for battle-testing plugs and wires, since we need a real way to compare plugs/wires/coils etc... The coil and its ignition power are only part of the gap question, since the spark will will track down the porcelain once that becomes easier than bridging the gap. Different designs of plugs and gap geometries affect this which is why we want the chamber.

Bob
 
The super el-cheapo coils on eBay are from some surplus batch somewhere, and 2 guys have gotten a bad one. We don't have our "coil dyno" set up yet, so its best not to gamble on the surplus ones.

I would look around on ebay for a "take off" set, that way you are assured of real GM coils. You will probably have to buy a set of 8, but that gives you 2 spares......

Bob
 
Today I used the base timing feature and the cam sensor phasing feature. Very cool indeed. I was very happy to see my base timing was exactly on the mark, no worries about the BHJ balancer. I also found out that my cam sensor was way retarded, about to the max! Kinda surprised it was so far out and still running as well as it was But still it could be the source of a few of my little gremlins.... Using the TR6 I dialed the cam sensor in slightly advanced.

Anybody know what the symptoms are of a very retarded cam sensor? I've been having a very intermittent "blip" during normal driving where the car "skips a beat", very ocassionally. Wonder if that was the cam sensor timing? Also have been dealing with a little bit of WOT KR that just refuses to clean up.
 
Reasonable questions, here are some thoughts.

a .032 gap is pretty wide for the stock ignition, especially at high boost and high mass flow. I don't know the rest of your setup, but its possible you are leaving some power on the table.

but, the system has some other advantages beyond the higher ignition energy.

The 2-step helps make the launch more consistent, and for those guys running alcohol it prevents hitting the rev limiter in the ECM (which often breaks parts).

The system provides a lot more ignition energy, especially at higher RPM. The ignition terminals are a better design the the stock GN ones and don't
break down and carbon-track as well as having higher output.

The system has built in diagnostics, so sensor issues can be diagnosed quickly and easily. There are LEDs for the cam and crank sensor inputs so you can easily check if
the sensors are working. The CAM led doubles as a sensor "setting tool". Detected trouble codes are blinked on an LED, and shown on the tach.

It also has cam sensor check mode, so you can see the cam sensor adjustment on the tachometer and see if its moving around (loose sensor or timing chain)

It has a mode for setting/checking the base timing, so you can (with a timing light) verify the balancer trigger is in the right spot.

Thats off the top of my head, there are probably more.

We are planning to build a pressure chamber for battle-testing plugs and wires, since we need a real way to compare plugs/wires/coils etc... The coil and its ignition power are only part of the gap question, since the spark will will track down the porcelain once that becomes easier than bridging the gap. Different designs of plugs and gap geometries affect this which is why we want the chamber.

Bob

Thanks bob sounds like a great idea and it looks to be working well for many. Im in just have to save up some cash :)
 
I got a code 13 today while driving home from work.... cam signal.... time to do some investigating .....

Chuck
 
correct me if im wrong bob but neither wastespark or coil over will you be able to run a iridium plug or anything of the sort. Well I mean you can but it wont last and they run hotter and not as well. Looked into it and no one with any type of cars running high boost and lots of power run iridium plugs
 
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