What do you mean, is it my problem or is this normal?The egr itself usually leaks. Ran into this last summer on our one owner elky. Drove me fucking bonkers for 2 months trying to figure it out.
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SignUp Now!What do you mean, is it my problem or is this normal?The egr itself usually leaks. Ran into this last summer on our one owner elky. Drove me fucking bonkers for 2 months trying to figure it out.
Running this ECM configuration without the mat/iat sensor will cause the ECM to see a high resistance value for the missing sensor, which it will see as -40F. This will cause a rich condition. Two ways to fix this, add the sensor or order the TT chip without the mat option. Talk with Eric at TT, he knows what to do. You may still possibly have a bad mass air sensor, you wanted to spend some money so here you go, go buy a new sensor, i recommend stock 86/87 because it will flow enough to get the car into the 11s. This will prevent you from buying a translator that you won't know how to tune or use. I have read several times in this forum to not upgrade any stock parts to performance parts when the car doesn't run correctly as is, for the most part I agree with this, especially for a green horn like yourself. Btw sounds like you got the over boost stopped, time to adjust the rod shorter, little by little until the boost gets too@9-10. FYI that ECM/ chip you have now is designed for intercooler, that you don't have and 15 psi of boost, and the timing curve is not gonna be correct for you ha setup. It will be to agressive so don't be surprised if you get knock retard at low boost levels. Your gonna need a chip programmed for your setup to get the best power and drive ability from you current setup. This will affect blms and ints.Regarding the waste gate, I just made that video quick, I do have a c clip on it. And when the car is running the rod pulls in since it has vacuum on the one side of the wastegate. That's the thing though, its like i need someone to take a picture and show me how long their wastegate rod is, because I feel like this rod is very long, but thats because I'm trying not to overboost.
When I first set up the wastegate rod i closed the wastegate all the way and made the rod the exact length to reach it, and it over boosted to like 20psi. So this time I made it real long, maybe too long but it built a few psi and then just stumbled. It sucks be ause every time I go to work on it, the sun is going down and I have to use flashlights, I can't see if the exhaust is rich while I'm driving.. Just frustrating.
Maybe its because I'm using the stock '85 maf with the 86/87 ecm(stock chip). Also don't have the air temp sensor hooked up yet.
I hope I didnt fool this new o2 yet, I don't have a code for I but it sometimes doesn't cross count that high.
Also would fouling he o2 make it think its not getting enough fuel causing the high int and blms?
I wonder if i fouled the plugs too...ugh how big of a pain in the ass are they on these hot airs to change.
Running this ECM configuration without the mat/iat sensor will cause the ECM to see a high resistance value for the missing sensor, which it will see as -40F. This will cause a rich condition. Two ways to fix this, add the sensor or order the TT chip without the mat option. Talk with Eric at TT, he knows what to do. You may still possibly have a bad mass air sensor, you wanted to spend some money so here you go, go buy a new sensor, i recommend stock 86/87 because it will flow enough to get the car into the 11s. This will prevent you from buying a translator that you won't know how to tune or use. I have read several times in this forum to not upgrade any stock parts to performance parts when the car doesn't run correctly as is, for the most part I agree with this, especially for a green horn like yourself. Btw sounds like you got the over boost stopped, time to adjust the rod shorter, little by little until the boost gets too@9-10. FYI that ECM/ chip you have now is designed for intercooler, that you don't have and 15 psi of boost, and the timing curve is not gonna be correct for you ha setup. It will be to agressive so don't be surprised if you get knock retard at low boost levels. Your gonna need a chip programmed for your setup to get the best power and drive ability from you current setup. This will affect blms and ints.
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your probably correct about the egr leak from overboost, and i just unplugged my mat sensor and my scanmaster shows 71 also, this must be a default the scanmaster shows when the mat is open, however the ecm still sees this sensor as -40f. as far as wiring in the sensor, its just 2 wires and im sure someone has schematics to show you which terminals in the ecm connector these 2 wires go to. post a thread seperate asking for the wiring schematic. btw if you reseal the egr with a block off, and still have a leak around this area, you may have damaged the intake gasketI have a translator, its not installed yet, also have an LT1 Maf on its way.
The scan master shows the air temp sensor reading 71 at all times? It doesn't have a code and it just stays steady at 71. I'd like to install the sensor and wire it in the harness, not sure how to tackle it just yet... Any tips?
I think the over boosting issue might of caused the egr gasket to leak, since its a lot of boost but idk
one thing i noticed in reading... is you have to be sure the parts you are looking at are 84/85 specific in some instances... you mentioned the egr block off only having one bolt that is 86/87 configuration. also a vacume leak at the egr could also include the hard tube that goes to the back or the manifold just below the turbo.
as for vacume lines. you have to be aware that there are two seperrate areas that they may be hooked up any thing hooked to the ports on the throttle body are vacume only no boost. the base of the turbo and back of manifold are manifold pressure both boost and vacume
Thanks! I read your other post too, very helpful!plate blocks exhaust and the plug at the back closes the intake