Comp cam roller setup.... which one do you have and how do you like it?

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

http://www.fullthrottlespeed.com/customkititems~kc~001BUROLLER.htm

I was thinking of getting the 206/210 or the 210/215 roller cam setup for my girdled 109....

I havent had a roller cam before, how do you guys like yours?

Thinking about getting one after i get back from vegas, depends on how well i do

Anyway, the cam is the only expensive part i havent purchased for the motor, so i know i need a roller because i would hate to rebuild it again from the hyd cam lobes going south...
Combo is 45a, cas front mount,ported IRON heads,ect ect yada yada..

thanks
BW

 

[Blown&Injected]

I'll let you know next week - just got things together and have only started it for a moment before my fuel line and water pump started gushing.

Although I do have the one that is bigger on the intake, 218/212 I believe.

 

[WIKEDV6]

We installed a 210-215 Ductile roller from Full throttle, as a matter of fact we bought the kit that they sell with the right length push rods and the proper valve springs and the goodies that they come with. We have already put on over 5000 miles with setup, no problems what so ever. We also installed the Harland Sharp 1.55 roller rockers from Full throttle as well.

We were only able to make one pass at the track (the members name is Foost on this board) we weren't able to tune the car at all because of the only pass.

He drove the car to the track on 93 octane and alky setup with boost only set at 19psi (he can push around 22psi with alky no problem.) Got to the track put a set of slicks on and staged. The car went 11.20's around 118 & change with only 19 psi boost. The cam works very well as you can see. As a matter of fact we are ordering another set today to go into my other buddy’s car. The car pulls hard low and high end. it spools up a TE63-1 with .63 Precision exhaust housing like it's a 44.

PS; The Iron heads and the manifolds were reworked over after is was ported by a professional engine shop by Postal this board. I think that also contributes why this car spools up so quick and runs so hard.

My vote goes to 210-215 and I would order that from Full Throttle because They are one of the few Turbo Buick Venders that are still out there to make our small turbo Buick community better with great support and awesome customer service.

HTH

Prasad

 

[wants a tr]

i have a comp 212/212 roller...easy install just like a flat tappet. I dont spin mine very high. 5400-5500. I run T&D rollers also. Car makes good power. I have no complaints. Roller rockers will be a tad bit noiser at idle and such.

Check sig for times!

HTH's...

 

[VadersV6]

Whats involved with switching over to a roller on these engines? What is used to keep the lifters oriented and locked in that position? Do they just use those swingarms to keep them straight? If so thats pretty weak. Those things arent nearly strong enough. I like the types that use a wishbone type piece that supports both sides of the lifter. Do you have to run a special timing chain and run a cam button or anything? Its not like I need a roller, but the idea does seem appealing. Aggresive lift patterns...slam open and closed so it spends more time at higher lifts, as well as the reliability and reduced friction, etc. You can run more spring pressure and reduce valve float without having to worry about wiping lobes from the added pressure. Ive never liked flat tappet cams. They belong in model T engines IMO. No perfect break in period to stress over is nice. Are there any particular brands you would stay away from, like cams that have had a history of snapping or killing roller lifters, or cracking lifter bores?
Has anyone here ever tried bleeder type lifters (Rhoades) on these cars with an aggresive flat tappet cam? I tried those in a few engines back in the 80's, and even though they were noisy like a solid cam, they did work as advertised. Great low end torque and killer top end.

 

[CTX-SLPR]

Dogbone style retainers have a limit to how much lift you can run due to the machined flats on the sides of the lifters though I agree that they are likely to be a stronger link setup, hense the factory usage. They also require the tops of the lifter bores to be machined flat and the radius to the block machined for clearance of the dogbone. Finally you need a "spider" to hold the dogbones down and while you 109 guys have it easy for a place to install that the rest of us with the older valleys don't have quite as convient of a location for the hold down bolts. I'd like to see beefier tiebars on the "retrofit" style lifters that are out there now, I believe atleast one of us has had a tiebar break and the lifter twist on him.

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

Thanks guys, i am getting excited just thinking about it!

Now just to decide which one to get

Appreciate it!
BW

 

[WIKEDV6]

Whats involved with switching over to a roller on these engines? What is used to keep the lifters oriented and locked in that position? Do they just use those swingarms to keep them straight? If so thats pretty weak. Those things arent nearly strong enough. I like the types that use a wishbone type piece that supports both sides of the lifter. Do you have to run a special timing chain and run a cam button or anything? Its not like I need a roller, but the idea does seem appealing. Aggresive lift patterns...slam open and closed so it spends more time at higher lifts, as well as the reliability and reduced friction, etc. You can run more spring pressure and reduce valve float without having to worry about wiping lobes from the added pressure. Ive never liked flat tappet cams. They belong in model T engines IMO. No perfect break in period to stress over is nice. Are there any particular brands you would stay away from, like cams that have had a history of snapping or killing roller lifters, or cracking lifter bores?
Has anyone here ever tried bleeder type lifters (Rhoades) on these cars with an aggresive flat tappet cam? I tried those in a few engines back in the 80's, and even though they were noisy like a solid cam, they did work as advertised. Great low end torque and killer top end.

Well, If you buy the Ductile roller kit from Full Throttle, it comes with the cam, lifters, right length push rods, beehive valve springs, locks and retainers and the cam button assembly. You can use your stock timing chain set up with it as well. The only thing we did different than installing a flat tappet cam was that, we had to set the end play with a dial indicator which was no big deal. No break in process which was cool. The car is running stronger than ever and gone over 5K miles without any issues so far.

HTH
Prasad

 

[frankg]

I like the Comps 212-212 or the 218-218 they make great power!!! Frank

 

[sdteb]

brian

i should have my motor in soon...i got the 210/215 from fullthrottle...will let you know how i like it...i got the 1.6 harland sharp rockers also..

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

i should have my motor in soon...i got the 210/215 from fullthrottle...will let you know how i like it...i got the 1.6 harland sharp rockers also..

YOU SUCK!!!!!

Man, i got to get off my butt and get some projects done....
BW

 

[JeffG]

Had a 214/210, have a 210/210 right now. Both work great but I think the single pattern works better. I could just be hallucinating though
Has anyone did any back to back testing on camshafts? I would be curious to see how much these motors respond to a cam change, especially a car with decent heads. I bet not as much as the cam costs.

 

[Blazer406]

Bump for any new feedback on the 210/215 HR cam from Comp.