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Cylinder Wear ? Bore or Hone.. Engine Builder's

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87chrisss

BLUBYU
Joined
Jan 31, 2011
Messages
2,561
i just took apart a 60k mile motor it was ragged a bit big turbo cam the misc junk.. and i noticed the downpipe and exh ports were pitch black so i assumed the car was ran extremely rich, with that said i was ready to bore the motor over i thought it would have some bad cylinder wear...Now i just took it apart i want to know if i can get away with a hone and some fresh bearings and some new rings and call it a day... i hate the horror stories of bad machine shop's and you end up with incorrect tolerances..etc..Anyone have some sort of write up or explanation to figure out if a hone or bore is needed what exact things should i look for..i think i can get away with a hone on this block..this engine really hasn't been cleaned i just took at apart 15 min ago and wiped it down thats about it..should i get the block dipped before i come to a conclusion on bore or hone?

I took the motor apart in my truck because i dont have a cherry picker couldn't lift assembled shortblock alone i couldn't find any help..pardon the ghetto ness..it will be on an engine stand soon..and the vid is a bit dark..i can take another tomorrow the video makes it seem alot worse than it is..its actually smooth to the touch no really serious ring wear that i can see...im no pro tho...



 
Without measuring the boares to check run out ect you won't know if you can just hone it or not.
 
To put it simply you will have less leakdown if you bore it and hone with a torque plate to the pistons. You could go in and been the glaze and rering on the current pistons also. Since you tore it down in the back of your truck you will need to have it thoroughly cleaned before reassembly. I'd rering it since you need to have it cleaned anyway. Reducing leakdown does little for power under boost from what I've seen. Engines with 15-20% leakdown getting redone and being down to about 5% for a net of zero horsepower.
 
yeah i didnt want to take it apart like this :confused:.. the engine was in the back of the truck no oil pan and it poured today hard..then it stayed wet for total of around 10 or 12 hours and i decided to take it apart to save cylinders from the rings oxidizing and scratching wall on way out and i also wanted to save Crank from any dirt or rain water drying up the rod bearings scratching the journals wanted to save it...
 
thanks guys for the input.. i have to do my own chit dont have the cheeese to have a big name build my scrap iron.. but i figured out a way to get a good outcome i can disassemble and reassemble step by step and post vid's here and have nice guys like bison and nick pacecarta charlie and a few more on here...to give me feedback on what mess im doing right or wrong..and hope for the best....BTW Bison did you see the great Feedback i left you :D lol thanks for the help guys i have to be up @ 5am will be on tomorrow!!
 
i just took apart a 60k mile motor it was ragged a bit big turbo cam the misc junk.. and i noticed the downpipe and exh ports were pitch black so i assumed the car was ran extremely rich, with that said i was ready to bore the motor over i thought it would have some bad cylinder wear...Now i just took it apart i want to know if i can get away with a hone and some fresh bearings and some new rings and call it a day... i hate the horror stories of bad machine shop's and you end up with incorrect tolerances..etc..Anyone have some sort of write up or explanation to figure out if a hone or bore is needed what exact things should i look for..i think i can get away with a hone on this block..this engine really hasn't been cleaned i just took at apart 15 min ago and wiped it down thats about it..should i get the block dipped before i come to a conclusion on bore or hone?

I took the motor apart in my truck because i dont have a cherry picker couldn't lift assembled shortblock alone i couldn't find any help..pardon the ghetto ness..it will be on an engine stand soon..and the vid is a bit dark..i can take another tomorrow the video makes it seem alot worse than it is..its actually smooth to the touch no really serious ring wear that i can see...im no pro tho...



you say it has been "ragged" a bit-------is that the same as "beat on"-------sometimes these high tech terms are hard to quantify :) --------anyway I would suggest that if you can feel any ridge at the top of the cylinder it is probably too worn to redo without a rebore----------but if you don't see any obvious vertical scoring on the cylinder walls and there is no ridge at the top of the bore (the rear two cylinders are usually worse for this) the cylinders would be just fine with a light touch of a "bottle hone"--------If you feel that the engine has been subjected to much detonation you might want to have someone check the crank bore domensions that can create poor clearances when bearings are added--------the crank bores tend to become slightly oval sue to cap distortion
 
How does the main caps and rod cap side of the bearings look? It is difficult to see anything in the vid.
 
before I get carried away doin a block I have it magged... no sense wasting time .
 
Make sure you don't get the crank caps mixed up, they have to go back on at the same place they came off.

Chuck
 
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