Digital LED Tailights for the TR

[scot w.]

i got one car done- looks great!- it turns out i had them correct the first time-DL-DR PL-PR from the outside looking at the rear of the car-also all my dip switches came switched to the left but the instructions said sequential is switched to the right-well they had this backwards as well in the instructions. onto the next car.

Glad to hear they worked out well!!

NOTE: That is correct! The " DL,DR / PL,PR " (IS LOOKING AT THE LENS FROM THE OUTSIDE OF THE LENS)

Scot W.

 

[Roger]

Starting my install.

I want to thank Victory & Tooch for their posts of their installs. Most of all, I thank Scott for his help & his comming up with the led lights. I hope to avoid the small trials that have been encountered during their installs.


I have at this time only completed the under dash portion of the installation. I used the led no load flashers from Spaghetti in both the turn signals & the hazard positions & they work with the stock bulbs. I should be finished with the install by the weekend.

 

[Bent6]

Finally got mine installed on my street car. They look GREAT - definitely brings the GN into the 21st century. The pics and videos do not do them justice.

I did have a few "engineering oportunities" to overcome. First, be very careful as to the orientation of the boards - got mine backwards the first time. Scott says the directions have now been clarified on this. Secondly, my right blinker would cause BOTH of the inside boards to flash - turned out that the connector provided by Spaghetti Engineering had the L-R polarity backwards - once I corrected this they work PERFECTLY!

Two things I recommend are that you tie your connections into the wiring on the inside passenger side of the trunk at the factory connector rather than tapping into the rear harness. Solder and heat shrink all connections and use the factory ground point that is right next to the factory plug. Also, I personally don't like the type of connectors provided with the kit as they are not weatherproof. While I didn't change them on my car due to the fact it has never seen rain and is rarely washed with water, I would make new weatherpack connectors if you have the ability and drive your car in the rain or wash it alot. Also, use a no-load flasher designed for LEDs - while some may work with the stock flasher, the no-load is better.

At any rate, Scott is a good guy and will do his best to help you if you run into any prolems. Now we need some front turn LEDs to bring it all together. Good luck!

 

[scot w.]

Finally got mine installed on my street car. They look GREAT - definitely brings the GN into the 21st century. The pics and videos do not do them justice.

I did have a few "engineering oportunities" to overcome. First, be very careful as to the orientation of the boards - got mine backwards the first time. Scott says the directions have now been clarified on this. Secondly, my right blinker would cause BOTH of the inside boards to flash - turned out that the connector provided by Spaghetti Engineering had the L-R polarity backwards - once I corrected this they work PERFECTLY!

Two things I recommend are that you tie your connections into the wiring on the inside passenger side of the trunk at the factory connector rather than tapping into the rear harness. Solder and heat shrink all connections and use the factory ground point that is right next to the factory plug. Also, I personally don't like the type of connectors provided with the kit as they are not weatherproof. While I didn't change them on my car due to the fact it has never seen rain and is rarely washed with water, I would make new weatherpack connectors if you have the ability and drive your car in the rain or wash it alot. Also, use a no-load flasher designed for LEDs - while some may work with the stock flasher, the no-load is better.

At any rate, Scott is a good guy and will do his best to help you if you run into any prolems. Now we need some front turn LEDs to bring it all together. Good luck!

Thanks Will !! I'm glad everything turned out and they look great!

Scot W.

 

[Roger]

The install was delayed due to higher priority - my secondary security system needed some maintenance.

The boards are installed in the lenses. As careful as I was using a towel & all, I,m disappointed about scratches in the pass side lens.

I"m into the wiring & still working.

What I took as a simple portion of the instructions, turned out to be the most labor intensive. The instructions say to remove the license bracket for access to the convoluted tubing behind it. My bumper fillers had to be removed to enable removal of the bracket, which necessitated removal of the bumper.

I see some of our TR owners routed the wiring inside the trunk area. I didn't due to Buick placing it where they did. The wiring is well protected outside the trunk. Only need to have a bag of groceries or a car part damage the wiring & POOF, no tailights.

 

[Royal-T-Ltd]

The install was delayed due to higher priority - my secondary security system needed some maintenance.

The boards are installed in the lenses. As careful as I was using a towel & all, I,m disappointed about scratches in the pass side lens.

I"m into the wiring & still working.

What I took as a simple portion of the instructions, turned out to be the most labor intensive. The instructions say to remove the license bracket for access to the convoluted tubing behind it. My bumper fillers had to be removed to enable removal of the bracket, which necessitated removal of the bumper.

Whats sad is that you probably didnt need to remove the bracket, fillers or bumper.... i didnt to install mine - just snaked it from under to the other side.. everything is soldered, shrink wrapped, in convoluted tubing and tie wrapped to existing loom... i did feed mine through the existing grommet and then used solder and weatherpack connectors so, if neccesary, it can be returned to stock... not meant to flame -just wanted people to know there are more than one way to install.

still looking for one gremlin, but havent looked at the lights since before the PowerTour... should be able to look today and i will post my findings.

 

[scot w.]

The install was delayed due to higher priority - my secondary security system needed some maintenance.

The boards are installed in the lenses. As careful as I was using a towel & all, I,m disappointed about scratches in the pass side lens.

I"m into the wiring & still working.

What I took as a simple portion of the instructions, turned out to be the most labor intensive. The instructions say to remove the license bracket for access to the convoluted tubing behind it. My bumper fillers had to be removed to enable removal of the bracket, which necessitated removal of the bumper.

I see some of our TR owners routed the wiring inside the trunk area. I didn't due to Buick placing it where they did. The wiring is well protected outside the trunk. Only need to have a bag of groceries or a car part damage the wiring & POOF, no tailights.

Roger sorry about the issues! Since the first install done by (Tooch) I have re-done the instructions removing the area where it mentioned the removal of the license bracket along with a few more changes. I can E-mail anyone the revised instructions, All they have to do is just let me know!
Alot of TR people have routed the wires their own way and it's been intresting to see all the different intelligent ways to accomplish that portion.

The wiring section can be done to your prefferance on where to splice it into the main tail light harness.

The wiring instructions were designed to be as basic as possible using color coded wires that match up with the TR's main tail light harness.
Then there is the orange 12v wire that requires a CONSTANT 12v.
Then there is the Black ground wire

NOTE: The LED tail light kits now include the revised instructions and the No-load flasher that is needed. To date out of the 40 kits sold there are only a few that have had issues and all issues were very simple to solve and were mostly due to flashers or the hook up. None have been with the product it's self.

If ANYONE has any questions, just contact me and I will be more than happy to help you in any way I can..

Scot W.

 

[scot w.]

Whats sad is that you probably didnt need to remove the bracket, fillers or bumper.... i didnt to install mine - just snaked it from under to the other side.. everything is soldered, shrink wrapped, in convoluted tubing and tie wrapped to existing loom... i did feed mine through the existing grommet and then used solder and weatherpack connectors so, if neccesary, it can be returned to stock... not meant to flame -just wanted people to know there are more than one way to install.

still looking for one gremlin, but havent looked at the lights since before the PowerTour... should be able to look today and i will post my findings.

Contact me and let me know what the issue is and we will see about getting rid of that gremlin!!

Scot W.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Scott! Sent you an email.

 

[scot w.]

Scott! Sent you an email.

When? As of 3:30pm today I still havn't recived it yet.

Scot W.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Sent it to your business address and also sent one to the email addy you have listed on the board.

 

[scot w.]

Sent it to your business address and also sent one to the email addy you have listed on the board.

Got it, and replied!

Thanks,
Scot W.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Did not get it! Try resending to mhueffman@yahoo.com

Staying on topic here, was it ever determined if having the Casper headlight upgrade harness would affect the operation of the tail lights?? Victory was having a problem and mentioned it.

 

[jpratt]

Did not get it! Try resending to mhueffman@yahoo.com

Staying on topic here, was it ever determined if having the Casper headlight upgrade harness would affect the operation of the tail lights?? Victory was having a problem and mentioned it.

I have the head light kit from Caspers, well it is on there and now I am using HID's. No problem here. Front turn signals are stock though.

 

[Roger]

I am almost done with the install - need to get power hooked up.

I highly recommend pulling the bumper & the fillers. Too much wiring is done under the fillers, allowing many chances to scatch them. With the fillers removed, you can do a much better & cleaner wiring install. Pushing the power wire into the trunk with the factory wiring is far easier without the bumper & fillers in the way.

The install goes faster & easier with the bumper & fillers removed.

 

[scot w.]

Did not get it! Try resending to mhueffman@yahoo.com

Staying on topic here, was it ever determined if having the Casper headlight upgrade harness would affect the operation of the tail lights?? Victory was having a problem and mentioned it.

Mark I simply "Replyed" to your e-mail that you sent me.

Scot W.

 

[TR Custom Parts]

Scot! Please send email to mhueffman@yahoo.com Never got anything from you. Not sure why as I have been getting email and orders on the regular address. Thanks!!!

 

[scot w.]

I have the head light kit from Caspers, well it is on there and now I am using HID's. No problem here. Front turn signals are stock though.

I'm looking into what it would take to do the front turn signals now..

Scot W.

 

[Roger]

Scott,

I have hot checked the lights. The brake lights & the running lights & the hazard flashers appear to work correctly.

The turn signals, right or left act like hazard flashers. No right or left, only all of the lights flash.

I wired per the wiring diagram & wonder why the green lead is hooked up on both sides & the yellow lead is hooked up also on both sides. Is the wiring diagram correct?

Roger

 

[jpratt]

Hooking up both yellow and green to both side confused me too, but mine worked.