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Dusty - Anyone else????

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BlownV6

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 26, 2004
Messages
1,972
Had to take my engine out to make some repairs. Removed the converter bolts and tried to slide it back to install bungee cord to keep the converter in place. Converter would not disengage from the back of crank!!! Ended up pulling engine with the converter still stuck in the crank.

Took about 20 minuites of pulling/prying with 2 screw drivers to get it out of there!!! In 25++ years I have never encountered anything like this before.
Anybody ever have anything similar?? What do you think the problem could be???
Thanks Mike:confused:
 

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looks like you ran the car without the convertor bolted up to the flywheel..

did you lube that when you put it in? did it slide in and out freely?
 
Do you have an aftermarket HD/SFI flexplate ? If you are using the stock flexplate, it looks like it might be doing a little too much flexing... or is bent. ;)

Is there a gap between the converter mounting tabs when you bolt it up ? like the hub is bottoming in the crank ? If that was the case, you'd probably notice it when tightening the bolts... since you'd need to pull the flexplate up tight against the converter. The converter should slide nicely right up to the flexplate, with the mounting tabs stopping against it... or the washers if used.

If it were me, I'd just clean it up with a file and some sandpaper and call it good.
 
looks like you ran the car without the convertor bolted up to the flywheel..

I was 'gonna say something about that too...

lol... I've done that already on a Big Block Chevy years ago... ;)

It shook and rattled the car so bad I thought it was 'gonna bust the tranny.
 
when i installed my 9.5 ptc last week ,it would not slide into BA STROKER crank ,,,,I measured the art carr which i just took out and it was 4 to 5 thou smaller and this torque fit fine..what i did was take a 80 grit emery paper and take off a couple of thous till it fit in the crank......for those people that are useing hammers to drive TC on tight input shafts NO METAL HAMMERS IT WILL IT MIGHT EXPAND SNOUT
 
when i installed my 9.5 ptc last week ,it would not slide into BA STROKER crank ,,,,I measured the art carr which i just took out and it was 4 to 5 thou smaller and this torque fit fine..what i did was take a 80 grit emery paper and take off a couple of thous till it fit in the crank......for those people that are useing hammers to drive TC on tight input shafts NO METAL HAMMERS IT WILL IT MIGHT EXPAND SNOUT

You are the best Snowbird..:D
 
JB ,your wife finally let you use the family computer again,you know the one in the naughty corner...yes i wont swing a 5 POUND SLEDGE HAMMER at a tc any more AS YOU SUGGESTED..;)
 
CRAP!!
Hows your crank snout

I took a roll sander and cleaned up the female converter snout hole in the back of the crank. Crank seems to be fine after removing the material that came off the converter. Converter is defenetly missing some material though.
Mike:(
 
looks like you ran the car without the convertor bolted up to the flywheel..

did you lube that when you put it in? did it slide in and out freely?

No I didnt lube it before installing it!! I have never lubed one in the past or ever seen anyone lube one!! Should I be???? I put this engine /converter in before the BPG race last year , so I have no idea if this happened right away or just happened.
I am pretty anal about checking the free play of the converter in and out of the crank and the minimum clearance between the converter tabs and the flex plate. Matter of fact that is what I was going to recheck when I found this problem. I have .120 written on the flexplate so thats what it was installed at. I check that measurement to see if any balooning is happening with the converter. Mike:confused:
 
Do you have an aftermarket HD/SFI flexplate ? If you are using the stock flexplate, it looks like it might be doing a little too much flexing... or is bent. ;)

Is there a gap between the converter mounting tabs when you bolt it up ? like the hub is bottoming in the crank ? If that was the case, you'd probably notice it when tightening the bolts... since you'd need to pull the flexplate up tight against the converter. The converter should slide nicely right up to the flexplate, with the mounting tabs stopping against it... or the washers if used.

If it were me, I'd just clean it up with a file and some sandpaper and call it good.

I use a JW Wheel which is very HD. I will check to see if its bent!! Motor is smooth with no vibrations. Mike:confused:
 
Are The Dowel Pins In The Block?

Yes the pins are in the block and its a Deadenbear case. Never had this with the other converter. Not blaming the converter , but something is defenetly
wrong. Mike:confused:
 
Something is definately moving. If it moved freely when you installed it you could be getting the converter pretty hot causing it to expand enough to have some drag when the flexplate moves. But looking at the paint, I don't see any signs of excessive heat. If everything else was working well, I'd just polish it up.

There have been some issues with some of the aftermarket V6 cranks. The 2 cases I remember, one was with a Buick Motorsports crank, the other was with a Crower crank. I remember the Crower being too tight and wasn't machined deep enough.

I always sand the paint off the pilot and put some wheel bearing grease on them when I install.
 
Something is definately moving. If it moved freely when you installed it you could be getting the converter pretty hot causing it to expand enough to have some drag when the flexplate moves. But looking at the paint, I don't see any signs of excessive heat. If everything else was working well, I'd just polish it up.

There have been some issues with some of the aftermarket V6 cranks. The 2 cases I remember, one was with a Buick Motorsports crank, the other was with a Crower crank. I remember the Crower being too tight and wasn't machined deep enough.

I always sand the paint off the pilot and put some wheel bearing grease on them when I install.

Dusty, I will check the flex plate and check the pilot hole (Bryant) vs the snout on the converter for clearance. Any ideas what that slip fit should be??
I was planning on sanding off the paint and polishing up that snout and putting on some type of lube this time. This is just a new one on me!!

Let me know what slip fit clearance you think I need. Mike:)
 
As long as it will slip into the crank without any snagging feeling, you have enough clearance. Use brake lube.
Check the trueness of all the surfaces to centerline. It looks like the pilot hub is cocked to the centerline. There's much more wear width on one side than the other.
 
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