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extra mods for stroker motor

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buickfever

Yeah, It'll smoke ur Hemi
Joined
Aug 2, 2009
Messages
27
Besides clearancing the block for the stroker crank, what other hidden costs are there to consider when going stroker? Do I need to change my harmonic balancer and flexplate to match? Also, stock rods are press in pins, Scat rods are full floaters...will my JE pistons still fit these? Do I need new wrist pins to make this change? I just had my RJC girdle installed and align bored the block. Probably no better time to go stroker, but the budget is running thin. I figure the assembly needs to be balanced, right? Any input is greatly appreciated.
 
Neutral balance balancer and flexplate, clearance the block and then check it again. You might need to sleeve the oil passage because of the rod clearance. When you make the room for the extra stroke you sometimes cut into the oil passage.
 
Neutral balance balancer and flexplate, clearance the block and then check it again. You might need to sleeve the oil passage because of the rod clearance. When you make the room for the extra stroke you sometimes cut into the oil passage.

OK, good info. How much clearance do you need between the crank and block...maybe .005 - .010?
 
Do a search for "stroker". I don't know off hand but you litterally have to do it with everything in the block. You also have to have the cam in to make sure it will clear.
 
I like a min. of

OK, good info. How much clearance do you need between the crank and block...maybe .005 - .010?

.060 ---same for clearance between rod and cam lobe.

I don't approve of sleeving the oil passage UNLESS it is bored oversize. The passage is 5/8 in. bore. A sleeve to fit the bore will leave you with a .500 bore--then you are going to put a DENT it that leaving less than .500. That is your oil pickup passage. There is a way to measure --grind--and still leave enough meat without sleeving. @ least the few I've done were.
 
LOT;2542817 There is a way to measure --grind--and still leave enough meat without sleeving. @ least the few I've done were.[/QUOTE said:
This will depend on the rod you are using. I have a set of carillos that in no way would clear without sleeving the oil passage. Most rods are smaller on the big end though.
 
true

This will depend on the rod you are using. I have a set of carillos that in no way would clear without sleeving the oil passage. Most rods are smaller on the big end though.

My experience has been with the 6 and 6.350 K-1 rods. I saw some aluminum rods for a V-6 once that I thought no way they would work.
 
Installing a sleeve isn't a complicated task, but you'll need to make some accurate measurement of the tube and the hole.

To properly install a sleeve it is necessary to oversize the passage. While you are at it, use a long shank ball end carbide and "port" the 90 degree turn in the passage. This is kinda like doing the "Earl Brown" mods only on the block side.

I bought an adjustable blade style reamer and brass tube from McMaster Carr. The reamer is a #23 Adjustable Reamer made by Chadwick and Trefethen. The reamer adjusts between 5/8 to 11/16......more than enough to do the job. The tube has a 21/32 OD and a 5/8 (.625) ID. The marking on the box reads K&S Engineering #144. I also made special stepped driver to hammer the tube in place.

I believe the ID of the tube is very close to the existing hole size. You need about .001-.002 press fit.

Lee is right, you will need to dimple the tube to provide clearance. I'm not sure that this causes a real problem. People have been doing this for years and I've never heard about this causing a problem.
 

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