I grabbed the #1 billet main cap. In the grand scheme of things, what an extra $80. I almost bought the rear cap, I'm glad I didn't. As far as the rear cap, is it just that the stock one is pretty beefy already or because it isn't subject to as much force as the center or a combination of the two?Put a billet cap on #1 as well. Its only $80 more. The rear cap is outrageously priced from Pro-Gram......and not really needed.
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This is exactly how me and Cook talked about installing it. Giving the caps a little pre load on the caps, no shims then align hone the mains while girdle is torqued on the block. There is a metal supply shop in the LB that can flat ground metal so for sure I'll be checking the girdle for flatness. Great info.Understood!
Squaring the pan rail is smart move if you are using a girdle. When installing a girdle, I machine the caps to be .003" proud (above) the pan rail. No stupid shims that way. Check the girdle for flatness too. I have sent a couple out to be surface ground because they were nowhere near flat. The manufacturer will tell you its not a problem.......that may be OK for some guys, but not for me.