Follow my port and polish project

Joined
Jan 30, 2004
In my quest to run 11's on the stock turbo, intercooler, and converter, I'll be port and polishing almost everything but the heads. Here is the thread with a great wealth of information about how to achieve 11's with my combination.

http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/ge...11-s-stock-turbo-can-t-get-car-go-faster.html

Here is the list of things I'll be porting and polishing:

Stock upper and lower intake
Throttle body
Intake ports on the heads
Stock exhaust manifolds
Manifold to turbo
Compressor housing inlet and out let
Turbine inlet
Intercooler neck

I've read for hours and hours here and other boards on porting techniques and theroy. I want to thanks VadersV6 for all the help he has givng me and answering all my questions. I quickly learned not to just hog everything out, but to create some velocity in the lower intake and heads. I don't plan on pulling the heads on the car.

I'll update the thread as I work. I figure it will take me a few weeks doing all the work on weekends and after work. If anyone has any recommendations or critisism along the way, please post.

I'll start off with some pics of how the engine bay looked before I tore it down.

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So far I was able to get everything off other then the lower intake and the exhaust manifolds. Only took about 3 hours.

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Here are the pics of the engine bay with the parts removed:

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And here are the tools I'll be using. I got the carbide bits and the head porting kit from Summit, the Grinders grease came from Eastwood.

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I may polish the outside of the upper intake if I feel up to it.

Other then porting the stock turbo's wastegate hole, I've never done any porting or polishing work, so please bear with me.

Doug D
 
I wish I had your ambition to go fast with stock parts.

I just decided to "port" my engine to a 4.1L and "polish" it off with a shot of 6776 and a shot of nitrous :tongue:
 
I wish I had your ambition to go fast with stock parts.

I just decided to "port" my engine to a 4.1L and "polish" it off with a shot of 6776 and a shot of nitrous :tongue:


I wish I had your money :)

I've had the car for almost 4 years now, and money seems to be getting tighter and tighter. Because of my budget constraint, I've learned so much theory and DIY stuff that it doesn't bother me that I'm still on a bunch of stock parts.

I should have an update tomorrow.
 
Because of this black car I now HAVE no money :mad: :p

Looks good man. Love the engine bay, looks sharp. I am going to like watching your progress, make sure you take lots of pics and keep us updated.
 
to your list

remove the beaded edges on the uppipe until they are just a slight lip

I went a few 12.0s without touching heads or intake but couldnt get the 11slip.
 
remove the beaded edges on the uppipe until they are just a slight lip

Please provide more detail!
thanks
 
to your list

remove the beaded edges on the uppipe until they are just a slight lip

I went a few 12.0s without touching heads or intake but couldnt get the 11slip.

I was going to cut the rolled lips on the ends of the uppipe, is that what you mean?
 
I was going to cut the rolled lips on the ends of the uppipe, is that what you mean?

I think he means to cut the very edge of the flare where it almost rolls back into air stream....Yet leave enough for hoses to stay on under boost.
 
I think I understand. Cut it right in the middle of the bead?

Any suggestions on how to remove the EGR tower from the lower intake?
 
More tips

A good tune will get you there also.

Run high pressure in front tires
Get a rope for the Ebrake
tcc lock up switch
Eric marshall chip
remove sway bar end links
 
I've been personally tuning the car, and record all the data on every pass. I was able to pick up 2 tenths and 4 mph with the MAF Pro setup.

Front tires are at 40psi, max is 44.

I used to do the ebrake trick, then I installed a Hydroboost setup. I can now leave at 12 psi on the foot brake.

I lock the converter at 73 mph. If I do it in 2nd, it pulses.

Sway bar has been removed completely.

Thanks for the tips.
 
Sounds like you have it dialed in. :cool: I was in your shoes a few years back and it all adds up. I did most of the porting that is mentioned and a few little tricks to get my goal....Recording all info is one foot in front of the other and it seems like you have been doing that:)

Guessing you have distilled water and water wetter? When I lived in Sarasota, that was a big difference in heat reduction!
 
Sounds like you have it dialed in. :cool: I was in your shoes a few years back and it all adds up. I did most of the porting that is mentioned and a few little tricks to get my goal....Recording all info is one foot in front of the other and it seems like you have been doing that:)

Guessing you have distilled water and water wetter? When I lived in Sarasota, that was a big difference in heat reduction!

I run distilled water with RMI25.

6 for 6 :)

Thanks
 
Nothing cool has happened yet. Got the rest of the motor torn down. Next I'll be measuring the stock intake, gasket, and head port sizes for comparison reasons. I'll post the numbers. All parts will get cleaned up so I can map out what I'm porting first.

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Did some parts cleaning tonight. I wanted to get the dingy stains out of the valve covers, lower and upper intake, but keep the aluminum looking natural. After reading about it here, I decided to try Eagle One's Mag wheel etching cleaner. I pre cleaned the parts with some brake parts cleaner to get off the heavy oil deposits. Then I soaked the parts for about a minute and used a tooth brush on the heavily stained areas.

I wasn't impressed. It turned the intake a wierd ivory color, kind of snowed, and lost all the natural aluminum color. The valve covers actually darkened. The cleaner did take out most of the stains, but the overall color is not what I'm looking for.

In the morning I'm going to attempt to sand blast it. If I have no luck there, I'll have them powder coated. Anyone know what color powder coat I can use to make them look natural?

I disassembled the whole throttlebody, but didn't clean it, mainly cause it didn't need it. The shafts seals are in good shape, so I don't believe I was losing boost, but read here to check the seals for any leaks.

I forgot to take pictures of the parts before being cleaned, but they were typical mildly dingy aluminum parts.

And for the pics:

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