FP Hotwire relay failure

[NY_GN]

What would cause this. I switched to a BWD brand and it's good, no shorts found in wire.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Loose connection?

 

[NY_GN]

Loose connection?

Good call, I was unplugging and plugging it in to troubleshoot something.

Hopefully that was it.

 

[Nick Micale]

My thinking is that this failure could most likely be because the power circuit to the fuel pump does not have an adequate ground?

To me, that connection issue was caused by heat which is generated by resistance in an electrical circuit.

What I learned a while ago from my experienced electrical and wiring friends is a DC circuit must have a equal path from the battery and back to the battery to function properly.

For years we have installed hot wire kits with a 10 ga. voltage power supply wire, but the ground is a lesser gauge, and then fastened to the frame or body which is a crappy ground at best?

This is also the same issue that has killed many pumps as well as we see this with aftermarket fans which are not wired correctly.

Another problem we have experienced is the wire may not be as claimed as many times the off-shore product especially can contain inferior wire which is not up to quality or standards that is claimed.

We have seen 10 ga. wire that is thick and stiff like it should be, but we are fooled by thick insulation and not enough copper. I have met with some factory reps and they of course say it is our our installation fault, not their crappy wire, relays or connectors.

We like to think we get what we pay for, but not always?

 

[dynoman]

Your problem is in the socket the relay plugs into . It lost its tension and not biting into the relay spades . See if the socket will clean & tighten up , or better yet change the socket altogether , or it WILL happen again . I see this all the time at work . Sam

 

[dynoman]

Did you install bigger ground wires with the hotwire ?? If not you only "hotwired " half of the circuit . Just like Nick said , you need a good ground also .

 

[Steve V]

I'd replace the pump (maybe drawing too many amps), the socket, the relay, and besure you have the added grounds.

 

[fastblackracing]

Post up a pic of the wire connector that plugs onto the relay. The usual reason that connection points......burn like this is in-adequate contact pressure at the point where the relay male spade goes into the female spade of the plug...... As stated all ready loose electrical connections will generate resistance, then heat, then more resistance and on and on...... You cant really see the loose connection at first because its hidden in the connector. ... If you ever feel your wires and connecting points for heat they will speak to you, anywhere there is an issue there will be higher temps. Sometime after driving for a while check the temp of the circuit like I mentioned....Any where an electrical circuit is overloaded or "stressed" it will have elevated temps..... This includes the ground circuit as well...... If you determine beyond a doubt that the connector and its terminals are good and have good tightness, then you can look into the relay being the issue........ I have a great example on my tool box at work that I will get a pic of and post tomorow night of a 250 HP Ac fan motor that suffered the same fate at 1 of its lug points...... Talk about ugly, and expensive just think about a 10G repair to something because your electrician was high when he put the wires together. HTH

 

[NY_GN]

Your problem is in the socket the relay plugs into . It lost its tension and not biting into the relay spades . See if the socket will clean & tighten up , or better yet change the socket altogether , or it WILL happen again . I see this all the time at work . Sam

Good idea, might try that.

 

[NY_GN]

I'd replace the pump (maybe drawing too many amps), the socket, the relay, and besure you have the added grounds.

It's

Did you install bigger ground wires with the hotwire ?? If not you only "hotwired " half of the circuit . Just like Nick said , you need a good ground also .

Got two redundant grounds.

 

[NY_GN]

I'd replace the pump (maybe drawing too many amps), the socket, the relay, and besure you have the added grounds.

New pump, no issues up to this point.

 

[NY_GN]

Post up a pic of the wire connector that plugs onto the relay. The usual reason that connection points......burn like this is in-adequate contact pressure at the point where the relay male spade goes into the female spade of the plug...... As stated all ready loose electrical connections will generate resistance, then heat, then more resistance and on and on...... You cant really see the loose connection at first because its hidden in the connector. ... If you ever feel your wires and connecting points for heat they will speak to you, anywhere there is an issue there will be higher temps. Sometime after driving for a while check the temp of the circuit like I mentioned....Any where an electrical circuit is overloaded or "stressed" it will have elevated temps..... This includes the ground circuit as well...... If you determine beyond a doubt that the connector and its terminals are good and have good tightness, then you can look into the relay being the issue........ I have a great example on my tool box at work that I will get a pic of and post tomorow night of a 250 HP Ac fan motor that suffered the same fate at 1 of its lug points...... Talk about ugly, and expensive just think about a 10G repair to something because your electrician was high when he put the wires together. HTH

Good point, glad I was sober when I switched out the relay.

Thanks for the tip, I'll monitor the temps on the wire.

I've dropped the tank and put 3 different fuel pumps and a nes tank/sending unit just recently, so maybe the plugging and unplugging took its toll on the connector.

 

[NY_GN]

My thinking is that this failure could most likely be because the power circuit to the fuel pump does not have an adequate ground?

To me, that connection issue was caused by heat which is generated by resistance in an electrical circuit.

What I learned a while ago from my experienced electrical and wiring friends is a DC circuit must have a equal path from the battery and back to the battery to function properly.

For years we have installed hot wire kits with a 10 ga. voltage power supply wire, but the ground is a lesser gauge, and then fastened to the frame or body which is a crappy ground at best?

This is also the same issue that has killed many pumps as well as we see this with aftermarket fans which are not wired correctly.

Another problem we have experienced is the wire may not be as claimed as many times the off-shore product especially can contain inferior wire which is not up to quality or standards that is claimed.

We have seen 10 ga. wire that is thick and stiff like it should be, but we are fooled by thick insulation and not enough copper. I have met with some factory reps and they of course say it is our our installation fault, not their crappy wire, relays or connectors.

We like to think we get what we pay for, but not always?

I have the the caspers hotwire kit, this is the only issue I've had so far. I'm able to get up to 25# boost without knock. Your right about the wires, holy shit it's hard to find quality wire to fabricate something.

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Your right about the wires, holy shit it's hard to find quality wire to fabricate something.

Waytek has good and cheapo wire, & most anything else electrical..
The prices are more than what we get the bulk supplies from, but good for smaller quantities.
http://www.waytekwire.com/products/1454/Automotive-Cross-Link-Wire/