Got a carb turbo torn apart and

[usetaboost]

The easiest way to bring down guys like this is befriend his friends. They will tell you what the guy did if they don't really think highly of the guy. Get the BBB involved and get as many people as you can snooping around there. If it was me I would get HIS insurance company involved. Who cares if you lose the car. Watching the guy go to jail would make me happy enough

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Well its cold now, and theres snow on the ground up in the great white north, so the car is parked. Engine actually runs OK in the winter. Just dont want to have the body rust out.

Engine will probably come out this winter to get a little more cam lift and get rid of the lifter tic, or at least I hope its a lifter tic, find out why I only have 8 PSI hot idle oil pressure, and to port the heads. Dont know if my heads are worth porting or if I should get some 8445 heads.

I located the Monte Carlo the engine came out of, so I think I can get the ESC now. Thing is in rough shape. Now I realize why it had 2 melted pistons, and was as rough as it was. No rust but was last liscenced in 94 and the fenders are off, so I guess it is getting a restoration.

Life is cold in MN!

 

[charlief1]

When you get it post a pic of it please. Glad to hear from you again. Did you get the cam from Lorenzo?

 

[MNcarbturbo]

No. I needed lifters and decided I will be going with the edelbrock one. $150 for everything with a new cam with lifters. I dont really need to pull the engine but I thought it would be easier to get stuff fixed out of the car. Plus the heads need to come off to get the right head gaskets installed.

I am going with the felpro 1000's and getting the heads milled down so I dont loose the compression. I dont know what HG I have now anyways.

I was going to ask, is it worth getting a main or head stud kit? Hope I dont push the engine that hard that I need it but I know that it would make a nice insurrance policy.

 

[charlief1]

Get ARP studs and rod bolts for the security factor. You may not need them but it makes you feel better if you decide to get into it more than you should.

 

[usetaboost]

You may not need them but it makes you feel better if you decide to get into it more than you should.

Yeah like adding an sfi setup to make you feel even more better

 

[MNcarbturbo]

So with the cam, FP 1000 HG and a new oil pan gasket the cost is around $240. $295 with main studs. Maybe, maybe not. Depends on what I can sell my old sun tach for and If I can get rid of my 14" ralleys.

 

[charlief1]

Do some searching on evilbay and you may find what you need. Lord knows I've been lucky sometimes. I got a set of new KB rollers, shafts, and braces for under $300 with shipping. I've got a set of rod bolts I'll sell if you're interested. I think I've got $50 in them.

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Little progress. Car is now parked in the shop I mean garage. No Minnesota winters for a texas car! Pulled off the down pipe today to fab up my 2.5" mandrel DP. Its tacked together. Needs one bend redone so it flows better and get tig welded together. Not easy to get in or out. Have to pull out the passenger exhaust manifold to get it in. Kinda close to hitting the air box too but otherwise it fits good. Should flow 2X of my old beat up crincled bent 2" pipe.

Looked at my turbo too. Its toasted. Was nice when I looked at it before I stuck it on but the 1 cup worths ground up parts of melted piston and ground berrings that got forced through it didnt do anything for it. Turbo is sloppy! Now I know why I push 1 quart of oil out per 200 miles. Planning on getting an 83 turbo to replace it.

Already wish it was April so I could drive this again!

 

[charlief1]

Well at least you have that option. I'm still waiting on getting the turbo back so I get going again. If the car is up and running in April I'll be more than happy.

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Got the last corner fixed on the tube today. Doesnt come as close to the air box now which is a relief. Cut 3 inches off the last bend and now the thing goes in and out awesome. Wish i wouldnt have taken off the passenger side exhaust manifold now. Pipe looks like a sewer pipe next to the old one. Just need to get it TIG welded together and it can go on.

Hopefully I can get my carb adjusted, get a new turbo put on and get my knock box before spring gets too close.

 

[usetaboost]

awesome man! Keep workin

 

[charlief1]

X2 Keep us posted on the progress.

 

[FlintBuick4Life]

I love seeing the smelly V8 being removed and a turbo 6 taking it`s place... I have a friend with a 85 Cutlass that needs to see this:biggrin: He talks a lot of ish about me putting a turbo 6 in my Regal and not putting a damn 350 in it... he thinks he`s gunna beat my ass Why are V8 guys so dumb? Is it the fumes from the extra cylinders?:biggrin:

 

[MNcarbturbo]

DP pictures.
the jig

Fixed the ugly bend

Mistakes

 

[charlief1]

Very nice work. Have you test fitted it yet?

 

[WarWagon]

Word up! that down pipe is nice. like to see it finished!!
What's it doing hidden over here.?

 

[usetaboost]

Nice work man! You should start selling them!

 

[charlief1]

I gotta agree with Jesse. If it fits right then I'd see about making a few extra and see how they sell on evilbay. A cheap altenative to the factory one would be great and you already have the jig set up so give it a try.

 

[MNcarbturbo]

I was kinda tossing around making a few to sell. Need more pipe for sure. Wouldnt be that hard now that I know how to build it. Anyone here have an idea what they would purchase one for? Aluminized VS. Stainless?
Kinda want to see where I am before I get too far.

Going to get it TIG welded next week sometime. It has been test fitted. Going to post it in the fabrication forum after it gets welded up.

Rest of the exhaust stuff