Got a carb turbo torn apart and

[charlief1]

Hey charlie, i got a question, you said that the swaybar off a blazer would fit on a G body over in the junk yard section, what year is that from? My cutlass didnt have a stock rear bar and it turns like a boat!

Look for the last gen of the S-10 trucks/suvs like the extreme and the 4WD. The ends will be straight and you have to get different end links but it will fit and work better than the factory mounted one. It will attach to the frame on the inside of the control arms like the new pro touring bars. Get the shortest end links you can find and it will make it handle better, but be carefull. The change will allow the car to kick the back out easier so take it easy until you get used to it.

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Thanks! Theres a salvage yard close to me with like 10 S10's/blazers with rear bars for $35 pretty close to me. Does it matter if it has the ZR2 package? I think you just saved me a little money!

 

[charlief1]

If I remember right the ZR2 package is the best one. A little thicker bar. When you get under the car look where the lower control arms mount to the frame and to the inside of that is where the bar will mount. You may need to drill some holes to line it up better but make sure to get all the hardware off the S-10.

 

[MNcarbturbo]

I am going to get around to ordering a mech fuel plump to get rid of the noisy temporary electric one. I was going to get a stock replacement from napa but am kinda wondering if theres any other pump besides a stock one before I order it.

BTW, got the cutlass all shiny now. With the help of rubbing compound and a buffer.

 

[WarWagon]

looking sharp Man!

 

[charlief1]

I am going to get around to ordering a mech fuel pump to get rid of the noisy temporary electric one. I was going to get a stock replacement from napa but am kinda wondering if theres any other pump besides a stock one before I order it.

BTW, got the cutlass all shiny now. With the help of rubbing compound and a buffer.

Looking much better.:biggrin:

As far as the pump, here's a link for you.

Chrome Fuel Pump 1978-later Buick 231 V6 8 psi 80 GPH:eBay Motors (item 390080775818 end time Sep-10-09 10:39:51 PDT)

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Got all the pipes for my new DP. 2.5" mandrel. Should be a lot better than that banged up one on there. Not sure exactly when its going to get done but it should be in a month. Got the new front rims and tires on Tuesday too. Runs better every day. Didnt want to start this morning when it was cold, probably due to some choke problem. Deffinitly need the tubo control box too before I blow a head gasket.

 

[usetaboost]

you know what would be even better? Take that fricken trailer hitch off the back

 

[charlief1]

you know what would be even better? Take that fricken trailer hitch off the back

Hey now Jesse. It gives the sleeper look a whole new meaning.:biggrin:

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Trailer hitch is staying on! I have heard that they stop the trunk from squeeking. Plus if anyone is stupid enouugh to rear end me they can get a hitch through their radiator!

 

[usetaboost]

I'd rather try some X braces for squeaking instead of a trailer hitch. Who knows, it might catch on and we'll all be putting them on our cars:biggrin:

 

[usetaboost]

I'd rather try some X braces for squeaking instead of a trailer hitch. Who knows, it might catch on and we'll all be putting them on our cars:biggrin: Good thing you put some turbo power under the hood for pulling out the jet skis and atvs that go in the ditch

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Took it for another 120 mile drive today. Deffintly have a bad lifter. Clicks come and goes, gets louder then goes away. If i got that lifter fixed it would sound even better. Rumbles really good, and sounds awesome at 55. Stuck some 89 in there and stuck the timing back to 12 degrees to be safe. Hits 5 PSI quick, really good response from 55 to 70. Wont go a bit over 5. Could be my horrible down pipe which I got all the 2.5" pipes for to build, just need time.

One problem is that If im stopped or at a slow roll and smash the throttle the engine just stops. Sounds like I turned the key off. Anything specific cause that? If Im quick enough and let off the gas it will go back to idle just like normal, but if I ease into the throttle it will go great. Accelerator pump? Ingition issue? Theres a flat spot in accelerating too. Throws you back into the seat until 40ish then kinda lets off then comes back around and hit full power at 55. Its not turbo lag, the engine just feels like 70% at that range.

 

[charlief1]

You have a carb problem for sure. The secondaries need to be timed and modified some. Not hard to do but you'll need a carb kit to do it. I guess I'll be doing an update on the carb thread I started because that's 2 guys that have had the same problem now.

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Kinda thought id update. Starts good when cold now but I have to give it 1500 RMP or so to keep it running when its cold for like 2 minutes. Put a 180 degree Tstat into it as i put in a new water temp guage and it showed 160 instead of 180. Winter is coming so 180 is better than 160. Still suspect a carb problem. Good at 1200 RPM but its sluggish and kinda bogs until I get 3 PSI and runs good til 5 PSI which is all it hits. Goes back to the POS DP. I havn't taken a long trip recently but it seems like it is going through less oil.

Next step-new cam and lifters. Probably am going with the PAW cam, new lifters and LT1 springs. My only question, is the PAW cam a good quality part? Never heard of PAW before. Need to get rid of the thick head gaskets too. I am pretty sure they are for NA use. Even if they arent they are way thicker than the stock gasket.

 

[mikemcvaney]

I would be very chcareful were you get the cam a cam for a normal 3.8 will probably have intake and exhaust overlap to enhance performance. This is bad for blower and turbo engine s bcause it lets you boost bleed out your exhaust.My camshaft 478 intake 456 exhaust lift with 266 intake and 258 exhaust when degreed in right it has no overlap and idles almost perfctly smooth.But the valve guides had to be cut so I had them cut bigger so it could have cam upgrades later if desired. Mike 79 sport coupe.

 

[mikemcvaney]

Get rid of the Quadrajet and install a holley put one on my car it had the same problems you can remove the pevr valve that way its probably junk any way. My car never ran better not even when the carb worked right and was freshly tweaked. The holley makes better power at bottm end and it opens the turbo faster it actually whistles now you couldnot hear the turbo much before. mike

 

[usetaboost]

my old sc whistles so loud it was like it was in the car with you. it was a rebuilt unit too

 

[dr_frankenstein]

I would be very chcareful were you get the cam a cam for a normal 3.8 will probably have intake and exhaust overlap to enhance performance. This is bad for blower and turbo engine s bcause it lets you boost bleed out your exhaust.My camshaft 478 intake 456 exhaust lift with 266 intake and 258 exhaust when degreed in right it has no overlap and idles almost perfctly smooth.But the valve guides had to be cut so I had them cut bigger so it could have cam upgrades later if desired. Mike 79 sport coupe.

you mean LSA

he need something with no less than 112* for street use. only use less if you plan on revving to like 6500+ or the moon.

I myself use a 114* for racing.... so keep that in mind.

LSA.

A.j.

 

[83turbomon]

I was reading in the E-85 section one night and found out myself. I don't have the thread saved but the original law that put it on the market is clear. The stations are suposed to regulate it and if they get caught selling it to non flex fuel cars it's suposed to be a 10K fine. I did save the flex fuel emblem info though. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/e85-technical-forum/261625-flex-fuel-emblem.html Put it on your car and PRESTO, no problem. lol

where can I buy e85 or 93 octane plus gas... dont sell it up here. will 93 octane hurt my car...?