Got a carb turbo torn apart and

[MNcarbturbo]

Fixed my fast idle cam on wednesday. It was instaled backwars and 90 degrees of from where it should. Idles like it should now. Seemed to fix one carb problem without doing anything but still have the accelerator pump thing.

Had a few pictures from today.
5lbs

Yeah, the wires are still a mess. Too cold to wire.

 

[usetaboost]

The down pipe looks good man. If I was you I would definitely start selling them. Now that you are buick powered you need to upgrade that Road Gear stereo. Your car deserves better than that now

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Yeah I need a new complete stereo system anyways. When I bought the car it was in it and I didnt want to spend anything. I have a nice 85 cutlass dash with the big radio hole so I was going to redo it this spring. Was going to go with the stock GM radio. Too cheap to buy anything!

The plan was to go to Hearthrob exhasut and have them bend it up as a 2 piece stainless pipe. Hearthrob says they do custom bends and they are like 3 hours away from me. A 2 piece will be way better than my 7 piece pipe.

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Got the carb put back together. Adjusted the timing correctly too. Hooked up the power valve and runs like crap so I disconnected it and it runs great. Doesnt stumble when I smash it. Problem is I hit 3psi and can year detonation so I cant keep going. Had an exhaust problem, then a carb problem, and now an ignition problem. It never ends! :biggrin:

My only other complaint is even when it is in the boost it doesnt feel like its pulling. Its not violent acceleration at any speed unless I brake boost it then it kinda is. I dont know if its low boost or 2.41's in the rear end. Might end up just grabbing some 3.42's out of an S10 and a 200R4 when I pull the motor to change the cam and put the new turbo on. Maybe port the heads more and the intake too. And fix all those stupid leaks!

 

[charlief1]

I have a feeling your power issue is the 2.41 rear. It does make the car a little doggy. See if you can find the 2004R and I've got a set of 3.42 gears in a Camaro rear that I won't be using.

 

[mikemcvaney]

I agree with Charlie mt car has 240,s in the back it is a total dog off the line it also has a 700 R-4 . so the first gear is lower and its still a dog , Bring it under boost and it will fry em for ever. Put in the 342,s you will love them then do you r other mods later gears are one of the best bolt in performance increase you can do minus a turbo blower or nitrous. I have a set of 410,s if you want them you can hsve them . but you would have to run a 28 or 29 inch tall tire to make them work on the street. Mike

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Looked for BTM boxes on ebay and they were going for $140+ shipping. A new one is $240 Yeah its $100 more but its electronics, they go bad. Plus I see instructions and get to send in for warranty. Should be able to put it on this weekend and actually be able to drive it. The snow is going away, and Im saw 3 motorcycles out along with a Nova today so Spring is here!

Cut apart my PEVR vavle after discovering it didnt work. The rubber diaphram inside is a dried up crust. NO way it has worked for the last 10 years. Heres what the insides look like when you cut them up.

 

[mat231v6]

Cut apart my PEVR vavle after discovering it didnt work. The rubber diaphram inside is a dried up crust. NO way it has worked for the last 10 years. Heres what the insides look like when you cut them up.

i dont even have a pevr valve on my car. i dont know if thats something i should worry about.

 

[charlief1]

If you've got an E4ME then you shouldn't need to worry about it Matt, but if you're running without a puter to control the carb then it's needed with a turbo carb system that's stock.

 

[mat231v6]

If you've got an E4ME then you shouldn't need to worry about it Matt, but if you're running without a puter to control the carb then it's needed with a turbo carb system that's stock.

i dont have a computer so i guess i need it. do you have any info where to get a pevr valve and how to hook it up? to tell you the truth i dont even know were it goes. so i need alot of help. i guess i really dont know much about this system. i am going to stick with paint and body work.

 

[charlief1]

Good luck finding one Matt. Mike loaned me one that I need to send back to him after I saw how it worked. I'm trying to find the parts to make a replacement and think I have so far but I haven't ordered the peices to make it yet. It looks like mine will cut the signal to the power valve at about 1 to 3 lbs of boost and keep it cut off until you drop back to vacuum.

 

[mat231v6]

Good luck finding one Matt. Mike loaned me one that I need to send back to him after I saw how it worked. I'm trying to find the parts to make a replacement and think I have so far but I haven't ordered the peices to make it yet. It looks like mine will cut the signal to the power valve at about 1 to 3 lbs of boost and keep it cut off until you drop back to vacuum.

what happens if you dont run one. will the motor be fine? If you make one please post how you did it.

 

[mikemcvaney]

what happens if you dont run one. will the motor be fine? If you make one please post how you did it.

Put a holley on and for get about the valve. Sorry Charlie sticking with A.J> on this one Mike

 

[charlief1]

what happens if you dont run one. will the motor be fine? If you make one please post how you did it.

If you've got the power valve hooked up to a vac signal the engine can and most likely will go lean on deceleration which can cause a detonation issue. This is why the PEVR valve was used. It keeps the fuel flowing under a boosted signal so the engine won't go lean.

Don't worry about me making a thread about the PEVR valve Matt. I just started looking for alternitives to worn out technlogy. I think I have a solution that should be fairly easy to make but I just haven't purchased the parts yet to see if it will work or not. Just 2 simple valves used and one allows the boost to kill the other 2 ports. I'm suprised no one has tried them before myself. One's a 3 way valve with a check ball cut off and the other is a spring loaded valve which keeps the boost signal out of the power circuit. Really simple.

 

[mat231v6]

i found some info. http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/before-black-non-sfi-tech/190538-pevr-cant-find-one-anyhwere.html

"This is the simplest option I have found and will give better results than the full lean or full rich conditions. It only requires obtaining one part from your local parts store or wrecking yard, and a simple bit of wiring. The part required is a "three port vacuum switch". I obtained mine at the wrecking yard from some unidentified Japanese car. Any three port switch will work.

To get power to energise the switch, connect it to the yellow boost indicator light. I found on my car that the yellow light comes on at zero boost, and the red light comes on at about 5 P.S.I.. On the firewall there are two vacuum switches which operate the boost indicator lights,one for the red and one for the yellow light. Check the switch that operates the yellow light for the ungrounded side. This is where one side of the three port vacuum switch should be connected. The other side of three port vac. switch should be connected to a 12 volt switched source. With this wiring the switch will change the power valve from vacuum control, to full rich, at zero P.S.I..

The original PECV should be removed from the manifold and the hole plugged. Three vacuum connections are required. The common port of the vac. switch should be connected to the power valve port on the carburetor. The normally open port should be connected to the manifold vac./boost port, and the normally closed port to the carburetor vent port. It will be necessary to use some "T" connections to accomplish this, as you do not want to disconnect any other original vacuum connections. " (petes buick.html)

petesbuick.html

 

[mat231v6]

here are some of the pic on his site all info from (petesbuick.html)

 

[MNcarbturbo]

Was going to Email these to charlie but I just decided to stick them here instead. Pretty simple inside. Just have to find the spring pressure to find out when the valve opens and closes.
The top, inside is supply, outside is power valve signal. The Diaphram is pushed up by boost and seals the supply.

The riser, just has a hole drilled in it.

base plate, small brass orphise drilled in it.

The guts to the PEVR.

Basic 1 3/4" spring

 

[charlief1]

Thanks Mike. I saved the pics for later. I finally got all the oil out of the valve you sent me btw. How the heck did you get that much in it?

I've seen Pete's site before Matt. good info but I'm looking for a mechanical solution to the problem. Pete was a member on the site but I don't know what happened to him. He'd be a big help if he was still around. His knowledge would be very helpful to all of us on this site.

 

[mat231v6]

I've seen Pete's site before Matt. good info but I'm looking for a mechanical solution to the problem. Pete was a member on the site but I don't know what happened to him. He'd be a big help if he was still around. His knowledge would be very helpful to all of us on this site.

ok, I just didn’t know if you knew about this. its what I found on a Google search. You are always on top of the ball. I can wait to see your post on how to do it because right now I don’t even have a pevr valve. If anyone has an extra pevr valve I’m in need of one. I wonder if A.J has an extra he seems to have everything. Idk

 

[charlief1]

If Aj had a good one I would've gotten it from him already so I could figure out how to make one. We trade parts back and forth for a reason. Just imagine if we lived closer to each other what we'd end up doing. LOL