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- Jan 19, 2005
- Messages
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HR bar user here, and 100% happy, fit great and easy to install
HR rear sway bar VS. BMR Xtreme bar???
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malibuick231
Member
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2002
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- 724
I have the BMR bar but havent installed it yet but it looks like a very nice piece. I also bought the lower controlarms and the are very nice also. For the money the BMR bar was for me plus HR said it would be two week before I could get one.
chasmat2316
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2006
- Messages
- 1,091
try Paul Ferry HR parts
bmr vs h&r
I like the fact that most of us support the vendors that develop parts for the buicks. However it does not hurt to gain support from multiple vendors with different ideas and ability to produce items for our cars. I speak to the guys over there at BMR often and they are really liking this site and contemplating joining in and being a vendor. You can see their stuff works.
I rode in richies car on the street with that bar and it spun the slicks around on the rim and I could not see over the hood.
That was from a nice roll too. Remember that Richie? The side street by your house.
I like the fact that most of us support the vendors that develop parts for the buicks. However it does not hurt to gain support from multiple vendors with different ideas and ability to produce items for our cars. I speak to the guys over there at BMR often and they are really liking this site and contemplating joining in and being a vendor. You can see their stuff works.
I rode in richies car on the street with that bar and it spun the slicks around on the rim and I could not see over the hood.
That was from a nice roll too. Remember that Richie? The side street by your house.
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2005
- Messages
- 4,368
HRpartsNstuff
Member
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
- Messages
- 844
We go from in-stock to out of stock VERY fast
My friend & employee Dave England (answers phone for me) used to live nearby & we got together often & were on the same page with inventory. Well, he moved close to Louisville, KY well over a year ago (time flies), and our sales have been going up (direct and to vendors), so I don't have the chance to keep Dave updated on inventory status like I need to.
We are usually not more than 2 weeks out on anything at any given time, and have been caught up on everything a couple times too! woooohoooo!!!! I told Dave it's SAFE to quote people 2 weeks on stuff (right now & lately), figuring getting it sooner than expected is better than saying 2 days & it's really 2 weeks (like other parts from other vendors, not necessarily Buick vendors either). If you MUST have it sooner, PLEASE order it sooner
We don't bill it until it ships out, so you can order it a month ahead & even tell us the day YOU want it to ship.But if that's not the case & you are in a hurry, just ask Dave to double check with me (Paul) and see how soon it can ship out cause it really matters (or email me first). I might have 1 here that is for another customer, but they are waiting on control arms or something, and could send that one & not effect the other customers actual ship date on the whole package. Or could have stuff done powdercoated or boxed up that day & Dave wouldn't know it right away. Not a perfect system for sure, but works as I grow & keeps me more "hands on" making the stuff to keep quality & craftsmanship WAY up there.
PS- In the picture above, our upper axle brackets are made to go OVER the brake line to make installation a LOT easier. It works either way, but designed to make it look better & go easier for you guys. You can also spread the brackets apart a little more too. Should be into the bends of the bar a little, approx 27" apart center to center. That will help even more on the handling!
As for actual differences, we have been into Buicks & supporting them for MANY years now & don't plan to ever stop. For those "thinking" of getting into it now, well that's nice & all & may be helpful, but I would hope supporting the events & the people all these years means something. Otherwise, I guess we have been spending our time/efforts/money in the wrong places! We posted over $4500 in prizes last years Nat's, and more at other Buick events. We also gladly crawl under a car at the event & help with tuning or installs, and take stuff right off our display or even prototypes to keep a guy racing that broke something.
Not to mention the "other brands" you keep seeing are attempts at copying my design. Myself, I wouldn't buy a copy at any price, just supports the reason new (and old) manufacturers lose interest in making anything new, cause someone will just copy it & make it cheaper. People don't care if it's easier to install or to tune or even stronger, just cut the price & hope to steal some of their business. It's one thing to make a better mousetrap, or have a major twist on the design, not just a cheaper version of it. Of course I should be flattered people like my design so much it's worth copying
I realize money is tight for many too, and you need the best bang for the buck. As with most stuff, you get what you pay for. There are MANY differences that are hard to see from ours to the other (copies) out there. Unfortunately, just about anything will work better than stock, making your decision harder. I know and can tell the detailed differences, and they add up! It's not that there may be something actually wrong with one of the others, just differences.
Along with our never-ending support & customer service, here are some other differences you can weigh out for yourself:
Our axle brackets, even though they LOOK smaller/weaker, they have many sharp gripper points on top brackets, and clearance for the brake line, and are laser cut to precise fitting size for specific axle tube sizes. (PS - TR's have a 2.63" dia tube, NOT a 2.75" dia like some describe) We fit those, the aftermarket 3" ones, and any 9" with 3" or 3-1/4" tubes, with back braces or without. Other brackets can't be used on 9" housings with back braces without welding and modifying.
The lower brackets also have gripper points, and welded end caps to really give them strength and support. Once tightened up, there isn't anything that can flex & reduce clamping pressure, and has more pressure per sq inch. Kinda like you don't see real wide tires on trucks that snow plow. They use skinny ones that dig in & have more weight per contact area.
We also use a heavy duty poly bushing, unlike some others use the thinner wall "cheaper" ones. Not only will ours last longer, they reduce any binding under load and allow for MUCH more side loading for added handling ability. That's why we get so much great response from street guys & gals out there. Even have some auto-crossing guys doing well with it. I personally wouldn't drive one without our bar, once I felt the before & after.
Our upper crossmember brackets are a fabricated design from 1/4" steel. Others use 1/8" angles that are not even connected & nowhere near as strong even when bolted up. We also include an upper plate that reinforces the crossmember so it doesn't flex that others leave out.
Some use a female & male rod end, so you MUST take them off to adjust them. This is a huge hassle, especially when you consider how hard they are to get to when on the ground & the fact that they should be always set last after any suspension changes are made. Just another way to cut costs in production, but makes it harder to deal with after install.
And probably not the last difference, and probably the most important difference, is what we make the bar out of & how we make it. Ours is from a 4130 Chromoly TUBE with 1/4" wall, not a much cheaper solid bar. After we bend ours, we HEAT TREAT it to make it act more like a spring & return 100% to it's original shape every time. This also makes it stronger because it heat treats the inner AND outer surface. Like the PRO axles out there that get gun-drilled & heat treated, a LOT stronger & lighter too.
Our bar, with all the brackets, rod ends, grade 8 hardware, packing materials etc, is lighter than the "BIG" ATR style bar that bolts to the control arms. At a little over 4' length of material per bar, our thick wall tubing with powdercoat would be approx 11 lbs. The same length in 1-3/8 solid would be approx 21 lbs! And even though it "sounds" stronger being bigger dia & solid, it's actually weaker and will not come back to it's original position as good.
We also include the necessary drill bit (and a smaller pre-drill now too) and a yellow crayon to mark holes now too. Will soon have easier layout for holes too. Always thinking of how to make it better & easier FOR YOU, not what's more profitable for me. I am a racer and perfectionist at heart, so I try to offer what I would like to receive as a racer/customer. Plus with our very detailed instructions with tuning tips etc, extra attention to details & craftsmanship & even packaging, I guess I could see where someone would say "no comparison"
PS- We intend to repeat last years efforts to pay out contingency awards to anyone running our swaybar and/or suspension kits. It works out very easy! Just stop by our booth, ask for a HR license plate or decal (if don't have one yet) and display it while racing & time trials etc. If we can get a picture (from you or track photographer or??) that shows a good launch & a time slip or proof of a win or RU at the Nat's (and maybe other events too) to use on the website and/or catalog, we hand out the prizes! Got some great ones from last year, and our fault for not getting them up on the site yet, but that's another issue we are working on. Got a new site, new parts, and lots of info/teck/etc coming soon. We make sure everything is 100% before we go to production, so we are now keeping stuff more "secret" until it comes out so others don't copy that stuff too. Going to be a VERY interesting year for us! Getting help from brothers at our machine shop too, so new projects are coming along faster now too. I get so excited I can't sleep at night! Now if my back & neck can just keep up with my mind
Gettin old sucks! Unless you are rich & don't work & can sit in the spa all day & have food & drinks delivered to you..... One day maybe if I keep working those 14-16 hr days 7x a week :frown:
Royal-T-Ltd
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 12, 2003
- Messages
- 4,326
We go from in-stock to out of stock VERY fast
My friend & employee Dave England (answers phone for me) used to live nearby & we got together often & were on the same page with inventory. Well, he moved close to Louisville, KY well over a year ago (time flies), and our sales have been going up (direct and to vendors), so I don't have the chance to keep Dave updated on inventory status like I need to.
We are usually not more than 2 weeks out on anything at any given time, and have been caught up on everything a couple times too! woooohoooo!!!! I told Dave it's SAFE to quote people 2 weeks on stuff (right now & lately), figuring getting it sooner than expected is better than saying 2 days & it's really 2 weeks (like other parts from other vendors, not necessarily Buick vendors either). If you MUST have it sooner, PLEASE order it sooner
But if that's not the case & you are in a hurry, just ask Dave to double check with me (Paul) and see how soon it can ship out cause it really matters (or email me first). I might have 1 here that is for another customer, but they are waiting on control arms or something, and could send that one & not effect the other customers actual ship date on the whole package. Or could have stuff done powdercoated or boxed up that day & Dave wouldn't know it right away. Not a perfect system for sure, but works as I grow & keeps me more "hands on" making the stuff to keep quality & craftsmanship WAY up there.
PS- In the picture above, our upper axle brackets are made to go OVER the brake line to make installation a LOT easier. It works either way, but designed to make it look better & go easier for you guys. You can also spread the brackets apart a little more too. Should be into the bends of the bar a little, approx 27" apart center to center. That will help even more on the handling!
As for actual differences, we have been into Buicks & supporting them for MANY years now & don't plan to ever stop. For those "thinking" of getting into it now, well that's nice & all & may be helpful, but I would hope supporting the events & the people all these years means something. Otherwise, I guess we have been spending our time/efforts/money in the wrong places! We posted over $4500 in prizes last years Nat's, and more at other Buick events. We also gladly crawl under a car at the event & help with tuning or installs, and take stuff right off our display or even prototypes to keep a guy racing that broke something.
Not to mention the "other brands" you keep seeing are attempts at copying my design. Myself, I wouldn't buy a copy at any price, just supports the reason new (and old) manufacturers lose interest in making anything new, cause someone will just copy it & make it cheaper. People don't care if it's easier to install or to tune or even stronger, just cut the price & hope to steal some of their business. It's one thing to make a better mousetrap, or have a major twist on the design, not just a cheaper version of it. Of course I should be flattered people like my design so much it's worth copying
I realize money is tight for many too, and you need the best bang for the buck. As with most stuff, you get what you pay for. There are MANY differences that are hard to see from ours to the other (copies) out there. Unfortunately, just about anything will work better than stock, making your decision harder. I know and can tell the detailed differences, and they add up! It's not that there may be something actually wrong with one of the others, just differences.
Along with our never-ending support & customer service, here are some other differences you can weigh out for yourself:
Our axle brackets, even though they LOOK smaller/weaker, they have many sharp gripper points on top brackets, and clearance for the brake line, and are laser cut to precise fitting size for specific axle tube sizes. (PS - TR's have a 2.63" dia tube, NOT a 2.75" dia like some describe) We fit those, the aftermarket 3" ones, and any 9" with 3" or 3-1/4" tubes, with back braces or without. Other brackets can't be used on 9" housings with back braces without welding and modifying.
The lower brackets also have gripper points, and welded end caps to really give them strength and support. Once tightened up, there isn't anything that can flex & reduce clamping pressure, and has more pressure per sq inch. Kinda like you don't see real wide tires on trucks that snow plow. They use skinny ones that dig in & have more weight per contact area.
We also use a heavy duty poly bushing, unlike some others use the thinner wall "cheaper" ones. Not only will ours last longer, they reduce any binding under load and allow for MUCH more side loading for added handling ability. That's why we get so much great response from street guys & gals out there. Even have some auto-crossing guys doing well with it. I personally wouldn't drive one without our bar, once I felt the before & after.
Our upper crossmember brackets are a fabricated design from 1/4" steel. Others use 1/8" angles that are not even connected & nowhere near as strong even when bolted up. We also include an upper plate that reinforces the crossmember so it doesn't flex that others leave out.
Some use a female & male rod end, so you MUST take them off to adjust them. This is a huge hassle, especially when you consider how hard they are to get to when on the ground & the fact that they should be always set last after any suspension changes are made. Just another way to cut costs in production, but makes it harder to deal with after install.
And probably not the last difference, and probably the most important difference, is what we make the bar out of & how we make it. Ours is from a 4130 Chromoly TUBE with 1/4" wall, not a much cheaper solid bar. After we bend ours, we HEAT TREAT it to make it act more like a spring & return 100% to it's original shape every time. This also makes it stronger because it heat treats the inner AND outer surface. Like the PRO axles out there that get gun-drilled & heat treated, a LOT stronger & lighter too.
Our bar, with all the brackets, rod ends, grade 8 hardware, packing materials etc, is lighter than the "BIG" ATR style bar that bolts to the control arms. At a little over 4' length of material per bar, our thick wall tubing with powdercoat would be approx 11 lbs. The same length in 1-3/8 solid would be approx 21 lbs! And even though it "sounds" stronger being bigger dia & solid, it's actually weaker and will not come back to it's original position as good.
We also include the necessary drill bit (and a smaller pre-drill now too) and a yellow crayon to mark holes now too. Will soon have easier layout for holes too. Always thinking of how to make it better & easier FOR YOU, not what's more profitable for me. I am a racer and perfectionist at heart, so I try to offer what I would like to receive as a racer/customer. Plus with our very detailed instructions with tuning tips etc, extra attention to details & craftsmanship & even packaging, I guess I could see where someone would say "no comparison"
PS- We intend to repeat last years efforts to pay out contingency awards to anyone running our swaybar and/or suspension kits. It works out very easy! Just stop by our booth, ask for a HR license plate or decal (if don't have one yet) and display it while racing & time trials etc. If we can get a picture (from you or track photographer or??) that shows a good launch & a time slip or proof of a win or RU at the Nat's (and maybe other events too) to use on the website and/or catalog, we hand out the prizes! Got some great ones from last year, and our fault for not getting them up on the site yet, but that's another issue we are working on. Got a new site, new parts, and lots of info/teck/etc coming soon. We make sure everything is 100% before we go to production, so we are now keeping stuff more "secret" until it comes out so others don't copy that stuff too. Going to be a VERY interesting year for us! Getting help from brothers at our machine shop too, so new projects are coming along faster now too. I get so excited I can't sleep at night! Now if my back & neck can just keep up with my mind
WELL ALL RIGHT ALREADY.... YOU SOLD ME when i can afford to purchase a rear sway bar kit - I WILL buy yours..... sometimes you just gotta smack us around a lil' so we start to remember all that you have done for our community.... i was one of the first in line to get your poly engine mount and tranny mount ....waaaaaaaay back when. sometimes the $$$ issues gets to ya - this year has started off bad...:frown:
- back to the subject - PAUL THANX for all your ingenuity, time, effort and support towards the BUICK Community
:biggrin:Well there you go thats why i like HR bar better . Paul will be emailing you soon on ordering the rest of the parts i need for my brothers 79 lemans g body setup soon , I got the g-body bar and shorter hex links , i will be calling you for the rest of the parts for install , talk to you soon .
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2005
- Messages
- 4,368
Paul i ran the brake line like that, cause there wasnt room for it, because of my old TRZ style weld in sway bar tabs where in the way.. But hands down this is the best sway /anti roll bar i've ever used, thanks for a bad ass product..
PS also using your engine and trans mount
PS also using your engine and trans mount
HRpartsNstuff
Member
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
- Messages
- 844
Understand, figured there might be a reason, but wanted to offer a "how to mprove it" point if I could. You could also put our collars on the bar to keep it from sliding side to side too. They simply bolt on, and make it handle better (if not at the desired 27" spacing). Would have to look up part # & price if interested, don't think it's on the site or catalog yet.
Appreciate all the kind words from all! Many forget I got into all this to HELP my fellow Buick enthusiasts, not to make a huge business & get rich selling whatever I could build as cheap as I could build it. HRpartsNstuff was supposed to create enough $$$ from helping others so I could race more often & buy parts for my car. Well, as many know, somewhere along the way the car got sold to fund the business, and my racing got sidelined. The part-time side business quickly took over my life & went full time & then some. Hoping to get back into racing soon, but want to do it right & do it my way, so it won't be quick or easy to get done.
People tell me I have the obsessive without the compulsive part. I deburr the inside edges of the control arms before welding, even though no one will ever see or know what it looks like in there. I file-fit my 2x4's even if building a shed! But I won't feel like I need to clean the ceiling fan 3 times a day before I go to bed, never had that part of it
I take pride in even the simple things like taping the boxes up, where most people (including when I can get help) just don't see the point. Some say as long as stuff doesn't fall out it's fine. I say the box is the first thing you see & the first impression with us (if never heard or seen us before). Plus we know how bad the packages can get beat up in shipping, and we get some delivery guys who leave them in 6" of water in Canada in winter. I can't cover it all, but I was brought up on if you are going to do it, do it right! Unfortunately that's not the most profitable way, but most people that take pride & craftsmanship to the level I do understand why I do it that way.Basically, I have an issue when we lose a sale over a cometitors similar product, due to price, availability, or whatever the reason. It's not missing the $$$ like most would think. It's more that I know the person won't be as happy with the product, it's installation, it's performance, and the support and warranty behind it. I literally feel bad that I didn't get a chance to actually help that person out. If it weren't for all that feeling I get from the 1000's of very happy customers we have, I may have given it all up a LONG time ago. I miss racing like you couldn't imagine, and have no desire to be a 100 employee shop & retire with millions.
I do realize growing and adding new products will help me keep the bills paid so I might be able to have a couple people helping out full time so I might get to race again some day. I have too many great ideas in my head, and every one takes me a LONG time to get out. It's easy to pop them out if you don't care about having 10 revisions before getting it right. I make sure it's 100% before we go to production, so the guy getting the very first one is as happy as the guy who bought the last one. Not the best business sense or most profitable way, but it's my way. Things are finally coming together & getting more help from brothers this year, so really looking forward to all that should happen this year & beyond.
Also, didn't want to sound like we needed over-recognized for our sponsorship etc. It's just that I really wonder sometimes when you see smaller event shirts with sponsors names, or hear it on the speakers, or see it in the programs, what that really means to people. Sometimes the guy doing the $250 level gets the same size & space as the $1000 guy. I wonder how much people notice it all or know what it takes to do stuff like that for several events every year. Lets just say we gave away more than it would have taken to put an 8 sec race car together over the years. But that's where if support starts or keeps dwindling because sponsors don't see the value in it, eventually it hurts or kills the events. To me, keeping the events going takes priority over my urge to race, no matter how huge it is. Right now is the time where we have to start figuring up what funds go to what races & what classes for the year, so it was more on my mind this month. I guess you could look at every HR purchase you make, you are helping to continue and support the many Buick and other events out there that we love so much
PS- If you are not planning to attend the Nat's this year, you will miss out on some very cool new stuff being displayed. I have a feeling a lot of this will come together all at once. Stop by & say HI!
If anyone has specific tech stuff they need help with, please email me. You can always copy & paste it to threads. Probably won't have time to get back on here for a while again, everything needs my attention it seems. Got to thrash like mad again, falling behind, it's the cycle. Hoping new site is up by end of March for sure, with a LOT of new stuff & up to date stuff too. Just too many things going on all at same time right now, and 6" of snow & now raining ice balls doesn't help either
HRpartsNstuff
Member
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
- Messages
- 844
It actually hugs the rearend a lot better than the old pictures on the website and even our display unit. We need to update that stuff, and a lot more too. We have taken small amounts out with the bends on the bar & the lower axle brackets as well over the years to make it look better. If you wanted even more, you could grind a lot off the lower brackets & weld them on, basically custom fitting it to your car/ride height/springs/etc. Wouldn't be that hard to do really, if you got the tools & time & means that much to you. Haven't heard that issue for over a year now, so seems more people are OK with current "look" of it & clearance issues.
Looking at other cars running our bar (recently purchased) would give you a more fair comparison, and compare G-body to G-body. We give a little more clearance on the A-body guys cause they are more likely to have 12 bolts or 9" setups. Even with me making these things, I have a real hard time telling who has one watching cars launch off the line. From certain angles, it could be an old ATR style bar, if you can't see the brackets etc. It doesn't hang down in the center much more than those if any.
It has to be more than stock, no way around that. You NEED that clearance, since as the car goes up/down over bumps, the body goes up/down compared to the rear axle. The geometry actually makes the curved part of the bar that goes under the "pumkin" move to the front & to the rear. On the 8.5 rearend, you got those 2 cast "nubs" sticking out on the bottom. There has to be room for the bar to pivot past these & not touch anywhere. Also wanted to keep the stock appearance instead of bending it out behind the rearend, which also makes it a hassle to open rear cover.
Plus if it gets too close, then you need to shorten the hex adj links, which are as short as you can get without heavy modifications or doing it completely different & have to remove to adj them. Figure where we got everything right now is best of both worlds without sacrificing any performance or installation issues.
thanks for that input - money is scarce these days and dont wanna waste 400 bux... can you elaborate on the major problems with the BMR?
My money is tight too im well known in my family to be a tight wad when it comes to paying for something, now i pay for my bills on time everytime so far; but im soooo tight, when i pull my wallet out to buy something my wallet POCKET SQUEEKS!!!! (and i wear Levi's 550 34x34 LOOSE fit jeans)
I have to admit i looked up all the hype as i called it and saw the price of the bar & said to myself--------I WILL NEVER!-------- pay $500 for a bar that i can get something to work just as good and half the price. i dont have a race car i have a street car i dont need that.
well after seeing the H&Rbar in person & riding in my brothers car.............
i got mine 3 weeks ago sitting on the back room floor uninstalled so far!!!!!!!
(thanks Paul)The moral of the story is 1) save a little at a time if you have to, to get what you want if you need it.
and 2) never say NEVER.:biggrin:
HRpartsNstuff
Member
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
- Messages
- 844
well after seeing the H&Rbar in person & riding in my brothers car.............
i got mine 3 weeks ago sitting on the back room floor uninstalled so far!!!!!!!
Believe it or not, that is EXACTLY how we get most of our new business! We don't advertise much, just support the Buicks mostly, and have stayed out of the BIG name magazines. We get enough business from the people that see our stuff in action, or get the feel of it first hand (if lucky enough).
I looked thru some pics of mine, and found recent pics, but the bars are older ones on most or all of them. BUT, that gives you an idea of how they fit before & the last year or 2 has fit a little better. Haven't heard too many complaints, even on the old ones.
I posted some in the PHOTO GALLERY area on this site. If you go there, search for HRpartsNstuff and you will see a few different shots from 2007 events. Got some cool ones of Dave Fiscus getting on it! The gallery doesn't line them up right, but I named them burnout, part 1, 2, 3, 4. He was trying out a new converter there, and took forever to build boost, but once it started to come up, it spooled up quick & he let it rip!
Made me think of putting our name/logo sticker on the FRONT side of the bar for pictures like that!
PAUL,,,what about HR putting out a small front sway bar for street strip cars running your rear sway bar and upper and lower arms ,,just to complement the rear system,,,most of our cars are mainly street cars with some strip use or one that can be quickly ditached for the strip,,,,,,,,,,LOVE YOUR PRODUDUCTS
HRpartsNstuff
Member
- Joined
- May 27, 2001
- Messages
- 844
Thanks for compliment!!!
We thought about it, and might one day just to have another part to compliment the setup, but so far most people say it's fine without ANY front bar. Now for road race etc, there is a need obviously, but for the average street guy who goes racing, I keep hearing & feeling that just ours in the back works super! I rode in one with no front sway, drag slicks rear, skinnies up front, drag shocks all around, and was as good or better than others setup with 17" low profile & regular swaybars & bilsteins etc.
With the hollow bars off the Camaro/Firebirds available still (I think), that would be an easy choice over the stocker if wanted something up front. Got some ideas on our version, just got too many other things ahead of it since the gains probably won't be super noticeable, compared to other projects we have going on.
Might be working against all the "experts" and books out there, because it is more like an anti-roll system in reality, not just a swaybar. Tying into the frame like that instead of control arms may be what makes the front/rear setup work so well. Automakers put a certain amount of understeer in all cars, since when (and if) it gets out of control in a corner, it can recover more easily. BUT, it feels like a sick pig trying to go around the bend.
Ours leans towards more oversteer than understeer (with no front bar), and feels great by "seat of the pants" feel. On a road corse, when pushed to the limits, you will need some sort of front bar to bring it back more to neutral for optimum road performance. The "seat of the pants" feel won't be as good, but it will go thru the corner a bit faster under control. Of course that's getting technical & no one should be cornering that fast on the street (1G+).
Basically, we say try our rear setup with no front (for sure if racing a lot) first & see how it feels TO YOU. Then if not liking the oversteer feeling (about 2% out there from what we see), you can use the stock or hollow one up front (more for street use).
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2005
- Messages
- 4,368
the first thing i noticed when i installed my HR bar was it felt like i had a front sway bar again ...
again im very happy with the product and highly recomend it
again im very happy with the product and highly recomend it
