i FU$%%EN give up

pistons are fine are the fel pro 9441s good enough for me?'

he didnt have time to port the heads and

im gonna throw a new set on and find some one who knows how to tune these things

thank you all i am proud to call you guys my brothers just something happened couple days ago and thats the reason i havent been on i just have to get my head straight this was just one mroe loss to me if you can understand what happened

thank you all
 
Sorry for your situation. Next time you spend 5100 dollars on an engine, treat it right afterwords. Sorry, I get tired of seeing people bitch about these cars. Im going on 10 years with these cars and have yet to hurt ANYTHING............ TUNE TUNE TUNE
 
liv4gnz said:
it had to be really loose and i guess it was the threads were not really in all the way now say that was the problem it wasnt tight enough and pulled the threads out


would that cause it to melt a piston???
Click to expand...


Pre-ignition will melt a piston, and blow the hell out of a head gasket.:eek:

Break-in procedure or run-in time had nothing to do with that carnage.

My opinion [again!] is that the air/fuel is not right and/or not enough octane.

Alchy is NOT an octane improver. Unless everything in an alcy injected engine, including tune, is right on, 25 psi is very dangerous territory without race gas.

So if there is not sufficient octane to prevent pre-ignition, extreme damage is usually the result, even with alchy.

The racers I know that use alchy have learned the hard way, it takes 3 times as much alchy as race gas to run safely. So, maybe time to step up to 120# injectors or ?
 
are my 60#s enough

i only use super 93 since i baught the car

my chip is burned for 22-23 psi on alky
 
My 55# were done at 10.86 on alky. and a good tune.

So i would say you be fine for a while.
 
Get it back together. Start with the scan master. Learn everything it is telling you about the engine.
Egt gauge is very underrated as a tool, Powerlogger,
and a wide band. These tools take the guess work out of the tune. If you understand what you are reading.
If you do not understand what thy are telling you , you might as well give them away. Useless. If it is running lean you don't just add more fuel. Why is it running lean.
Fix that. and then tune for fuel.
 
1-Check the timing

2-Stock HG's are only good for 25 psi no more w/ zero knock

3-Does your Knock sensor work?

4-What is you TPS set at?

5-Your 60lb Inj. are good w/alky.
 
I'd stick with those same head gaskets until you get some experience tuning. They acted as a good fuse there. Sucks changing head gaskets but better than pistons.
 
Since you have limited experience with tuning, lose the alky and get a tank full of C16. I have never been a big fan of alky. It works, but is a nightmare for inexperienced tuners.
 
LIV4GNZ, it blows to have this happen and there are a lot of good comments to take in here. Let me give you me 2 cents....

You broke in the engine the way many performance shops are now, give it some boost right away to get the rings seated properly and as you put on more miles keep kicking up the boost. Engine break in was not the cause of your issue.

Get ARP intake bolts and torque them down in the proper sequence and ft/lbs.

The Scanmaster is only part of the tuning tools needed when you're pushing a car to the cylinder pressures you are running. Get a wideband and take it slow, like 18psi etc and work the tune up from there with the Scanmaster aiding in any knock recorded.

Sounds like you had a massive intake backfire, well I know something about that, looks like you're running a Weakbro fuel pump. Well if you plan on keeping it, you better plan on buying some sort of fuel pressure gauge because those pumps, are not what I'd consider a quality pump. Many of us had the same issue of it only pumping to 58psi, but there were only 40 of these out there. :rolleyes: :frown:
 
notacarlo said:
I'm gonna go with....break in period? Man that's a lot to ask of that motor/build with next to 0 hours on it.

White all over or white specs?
Click to expand...

Underboost said:
His motor is not stock. Are you saying a turbo doesn't increase cylinder pressure? :confused:
Click to expand...

I didn't say that. Of course increasing boost should increase cyclinder pressure. I'm just saying it depends on the setup more than the boost number and that it would make more sense to say stock hg's are good to a mid to low 11 regardless of whether you're running that time at 10# or 30#. I mean, there are guys running low 10's at 20#'s. Are you saying a stock HG would live in that application?
 
Engine break in did not cause your problem. Actually boost helps to seat the rings.

YOur problem is in the tune. Maybe you have a fuel pump and/or alky pump that is going bad. The loose intake could have given you the lean condition. Who put the motor together? Maybe you could reach out to someone in your area to give you a hand. Something major happened and you're are going to need to find out why it happened before starting again.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
Just my $.02..

I'd be looking in a couple places...
1. Fuel pump keeping up? [Already mentioned] I'd datalog it, if it were mine.
IMO, a NB is about as useless as tits on a boar hog..[Old hillbilly saying!]:D
2. Those injectors.. Were they new? If used, how long did they lay around B4 they were reused? Were they flow tested?
3. I'd look real close at the valvetrain. Those heads don't look like they've had much TLC. An intake backfire can be triggered by a hung valve. Weak springs? coil bind, ???
Backfires can bend rods, too. Look there, also.
The intake needs to be Helicoiled.
The engine needs to be disassembled, and all the $hit cleaned out of it.
In the FWIW dept.. when I read U wanted to start the engine B4 U installed the trans, I had a premonition that this is not going to end well...:eek: SLOW DOWN!!
Good luck w/ the rebuild:cool:
 
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