LC1 widband Issue under boost

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The NGK unit only goes to 16(lean). I am at 17 while cruising. I didnt want to see it maxed out all the time. The PLX was my next choice.
 
I had that exact same issue. Are you spraying Alky?

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Yes. I spray a single nozzle at half way on the dial. I am extremely happy with the PLX so far. Already 15-20 WOT runs with no issues and I can finally datalog my AFR.
 
Cool. Like described above i like the lc-1 for its ability to be programmed for a default voltage if an error occurs. So i wanted to get to the bottom of my issue. I found that when the Alky pump triggered on, the wb picked up some noise and did exactly the same thing you described.

The fix....i just put a relay on the power supply to the wb that triggered from turning the key on.

What did you do with your old lc-1?

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Update:
I figured this one out guys.
Switched to a PLX. Problem solved.


Funny because I can empathize. Just google "LC-1 7.4" and you'll see how common this problem is. The LC-1 is so fucking temperamental that it about made me pull my hair out getting it to work right. Now, after all these years, it will blink E4 on about one out of every 10 (1 of 10) startups and won't reset unless I turn the car off and immediately back on. Grounded right to the engine block EXACTLY per the instructions and I use that fancy heat sink they sell as well. Now that money isn't as much of an issue, I am considering a different brand based on pure hatred. Innovate does have the new all digital system out which does away with the LC-1 so who knows.

P.S. - Having to buy the USB to serial port adapter was equally as ridiculous.
 
Funny because I can empathize. Just google "LC-1 7.4" and you'll see how common this problem is. The LC-1 is so fucking temperamental that it about made me pull my hair out getting it to work right. Now, after all these years, it will blink E4 on about one out of every 10 (1 of 10) startups and won't reset unless I turn the car off and immediately back on. Grounded right to the engine block EXACTLY per the instructions and I use that fancy heat sink they sell as well. Now that money isn't as much of an issue, I am considering a different brand based on pure hatred. Innovate does have the new all digital system out which does away with the LC-1 so who knows.


P.S. - Having to buy the USB to serial port adapter was equally as ridiculous.
Man, you have patience. It took me all of a couple weeks to finally give up. I was tuning my car from the narrowband because I thought I had no choice. I then said screw it. I'm done with this crap and bought the PLX and first WOT pass was logged with an actual AFR. Little lean, but it was a real reading! The LC1's wiring is a nightmare. I had the PLX wired in 20 minutes.
 
Make sure your SD chip is made for the PLX, or closed loop correction will not be right. If you already had it changed from the LC1 to PLX, then you're good. (before anyone asks, this does not apply to the newer SD2 chip)
 
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